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Everything posted by Jo_Ann
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On level 0, use 3 half-walls to draw your 'room' (half-walls allow you to manipulate their height). Set them to 8" thick (like foundation walls) and set concrete as their material. Set the room structure as having 'no roof'. On level 1, (terrain perimeter level) draw a 'terrain hole' inside the room. On level 1 or level 0, draw a straight deck edge wall, at the end wall of the stair room, and set it's top floor (C) to be at ground level (this forces the stairs to rise to meet that level). You might want to add a floor thickness to floor (K) and set it's material as concrete (this also creates a landing 'pad'). Draw in the stairs. On level 1, place the cellar door. If you downloaded the bonus catalog for exterior attachments, you will find cellar doors listed under 'bulkheads'.
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"can you do me a favor and stop just reply with this message? it gets really annoying. I have already said in my profile that I am using Home Designer Pro. I am on the HomeTalk Forum, the answer shouldn't be that difficult for people who have been using the software for longer than me. "
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I have checked my HDA 2018 bonus catalog Holiday 08, and there is NO Christmas tree in there. UNREAL. My HDA 10 bonus catalog has 2 Christmas trees, with & without gifts. Holiday.plan
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Awwww... Thanks Keith, you're very welcome. It was FUN!
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LawB10, You are assuming too much. The OP did not know that 'roof over this room' needed to be checked (sunroom) to actually have a roof build over that room. When the OP rebuilds the roof, everything is going to go haywire (thus requiring some backward steps), which are not explained. When I said 'eave height', I was referring to the height of the 2nd floor walls where the roof rafters rest on the wall (not the overhang or pitch). Yours is set at about 4', whereas the OP'S is set at about 2'. I could upload a plan, but it would be saved as a HDA2018 plan, which neither Suite2016 nor Suite 2017 could open.
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I would do as Solver suggested. There is something amiss with your plan. Start a 'new' plan. Use 'edit area all floors' to copy the entire existing plan. Paste/hold position into the new plan. The interior walls will probably still be invisible. Select the default interior wall from the tool bar, and draw over the existing interior walls. If the 'new' wall is also invisible, then maybe something is amiss with your program, and you will need to re-install/repair the software installation. Copy/paste any plan files and user folders into a new folder, to safe-guard losing them before you try this.
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#1. Suite 2016 will not open a plan saved in Suite 2017. #2. LawB10's second floor roof is NOT set at the correct eave height, and there are no steps explaining how to do ANY of it. #3. You have made the mistake most newbies make...you drew in all the interior walls and started decorating BEFORE you had the structure (roof) correct.
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You have a lot of back-stepping to do, before you can rebuild this roof. You also have a LOT of things that need fixin'.
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Delete the default door and find a narrow picture frame (library), add glass in place of the picture, add knobs, block everything together.
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You need to use correct terminology if you expect to get good answers. For example, you refer to the great room as a 'basement', but you have drawn it as floor level1, and a basement (foundation, level 0) is below it. You said you want bedroom1 floor to be 28" higher than the great room, and now you are referring to it as 'flush'??? In your plan, the bedroom is set at 44" higher than the great room (instead of 28") ??? Why is the great room floor D ???
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OR...touch it with the 'rainbow' tool, and make it's properties transparent. This will also remove the crown mold if it is the same texture, but you can re-add the same texture back to the crown mold in the room materials tab. The lintel will remain hidden.
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Try pulling the railing slightly away from the house wall.
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Set both end walls on floor 1 & 2 as 'full gable'. Basic roof pitch should be at least 11" or 12". Then set up floor 2.
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Enclose the bump-out with walls to make it a 'room'. Open the bump-out 'room' dialog and raise the ceiling. It appears that you have extended the entire wall on that side of the house, instead of only the bump-out.
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Despite using all the options allowed for the ready-made bow window, you will not get the results shown in your picture. You need to start from scratch and build the unit yourself.
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Terrains can be very tricky and frustrating, and there isn't a lot of helpful info about them, but maybe these suggestions will help: 2D Display, turn OFF > Dimensions-Automatic; Plants; Secondary Contours. 3D Display, turn OFF> Plants. Now that you can SEE what you're doing, hold down Ctrl key and select every terrain flat elevation region. Open the dialog box and choose a solid fill color (make it highly transparent). This makes elevation types easier to see. Zoom in and start moving things while observing the 3D response in a tiled window. To avoid seeing the foundation footing, open the wall and remove the footing. If you had done a forum search about terrains, you would see that it is usually recommended to never use elevation points (you have used some elevation points). What's with those stairs on the terrain? Their position makes no sense.
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Strange Soffit - Act Like the Door Trim I Want You to Be!
Jo_Ann replied to SeabeeMike's topic in Q&A
Have you downloaded the WindsorONE Moldings catalog from the bonus catalogs? There is a header buildup in the Classical Craftsman Style that might be of interest to you. It would eliminate having to block and then resize every piece of your 'block' for different size windows and doors, if you used this molding instead. -
TIP: You don't need to explode the block. While in either 2d or 3d view (3d is easier), select the block and then hit your 'tab' key. It will select each piece of the 'block' and allow you to open and edit, while the pieces still remain 'blocked'.
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Ah-Ha! Who would have thought? That is much simpler than the copy/paste method. Considering that all windows usually install with a default material already applied, who would have guessed that applying a material to the non-existent molding would cause it to miraculously appear?! I've also noticed that these windows seem to have a lot of 'Z fighting' going on.
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Presuming you chose the 'default' template when beginning your plan: Go to the Library (Core Catalog) > Windows > Window Units > Rectangular > Arts and Crafts window. When you place this window, the window on the right is what you get?!! Leave the original plan open, and start a new plan, choosing either 'Arts & Crafts' or 'Colonial' template. Tile the new plan next to the original plan, and draw a wall. Once again choose the library 'Arts & Crafts' window, and you should get the window shown on the left. Copy, then paste this window into the original plan. Why anyone should have to go to this extreme to get the Arts & Crafts window offered in the library, is not something that makes sense to me.
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This is confusing. This plan is not the 7 Cedars plan you previously were working on? #1. I do not see 'board & batten' siding on the upper walls. I see 'shingle' siding. That said, if the exterior material listed for that wall is 'drywall', then that is what you are going to see. Ditto for the other upper walls. #2. You have NOT drawn a porch on the plan submitted, so detailed advise can not be given. However, the front porch wall needs to be an upper/lower roof pitch setting (if you use 'auto-roof'). #3. If pic #3 shown is want you are trying to explain, then it only requires some simple manual manipulation of the roof planes in that area.
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You need to stop fixating on the landscape for now, and focus on the house. Too many landscape attributes will bog down your video card. By the way, the terrain building pad ( you set it at 0mm) should NOT be the same as structure floor (c) 0mm in the house (change the building pad, NOT the house floor). Carefully read the first line in the terrain building pad dbx. You need to add an elevation line (-3000mm) at the terrain retaining wall at the street. Practice drawing stairs. Study them in your reference manual, and also the knowledge base.
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Draw and shape a 'Terrain Hole' to expose the stairs.
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