Jo_Ann

Posting the trial plan, revealed the problem. On the 0" elevation region, pull the horizontal cutout area around the garage all the way to the back wall of the building. This eliminates the spikes. The driveway levels and then slopes down to the street I see that you found the small elevation region that I placed in front of the garage door. I had forgotten to highlight it with a hatch pattern. I also see that you changed the subfloor height above terrain to 35" instead of the 22" you 1st mentioned? If you add an elevation line set at -60" about midway between the 0" elevation and the -150' elevation, it will help to round out the harsh terrain drop. I sure hope that you post a pic of the project when you get it correct! Here is an updated version of my plan. TominOhio 2.zip

Did you use terrain retaining walls on both sides of the driveway? Is the lower elevation set at the street end of the driveway? If you open the driveway object, you will see that it is a terrain rectangular feature, and it will follow the slope. You need to post the plan, to get more specific help. It would show what you have done "right" or "wrong".

I could not resist going a little further with the terrain. Too much idle time on my hands, I guess.

I don't think it matters what order things are done in the terrain. Open objects to see what they are. The 2 walls lining the driveway show wall type as foundation walls, but they are retaining walls. I don't understand why you set the remaining elevation region around the house at -20". If you set the main terrain correctly, that region should be set at 0". As I said, open the objects to see the information. I deleted the 1st zip plan, and uploaded an updated plan. If the plan you opened show a cross hatched pattern over the yard steps (1st floor level), then you have the updated plan.

Sometimes it's easier to show an example, rather than trying to explain. So I did a mock-up of your plan, using some of the dimensions you supplied, and the rest are guesses. Terrains can be tricky. Tip: avoid using elevation points. In this plan, I used only 2 elevation regions, and 1 elevation line. I hope this helps...at least maybe it will get you started in the right direction. TominOhio.zip

https://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/article/KB-00806/using-terrain-features-and-regions.html

Here's the culprit.

?? Build floor/ delete foundation...close the dialog. Build floor / foundation / check the monolithic slab choice...close dialog. Done.

Work-around for HD Architect: On the 2d attic level, withdraw the protruding part of the attic wall (showing into the porch). On level 1 porch, place a soffit. Open the soffit and lower it's height, then check box "sloped soffit" and "place under roof (or ceiling)." The sloped soffit is finicky, so you will probably have to rotate it, then drag it down to the correct ceiling level. Then, in a 3d active window: Draw a custom backsplash in the missing attic wall area. Re-shape the backsplash to fit the angles that are needed, using the edit handles and polyline breaks. Add your wall material.

I've encountered this problem before, and I think it's a software bug. It might sound goofy, but try this: Open the room dialog, and under the structure tab, look at the floor structure (L). It is showing as 12 5/8". Go back to the general tab, and specify it as a deck (you left it as unspecified). On the structure tab, the floor structure (L) should change to 8 3/8". Go back to the room type drop-down, and re-specify it as a garage. The structure tab should now show floor structure (L) as 4". Check to see if you now have a slab.

Depending on what you want.... In the bonus catalogs, Windsor One offers some built-up moldings.

If you don't want to see the diagonal dashed lines on the cabinets, turn off "opening indicators" in the display options. P.S. Please turn OFF your caps in your post text. It is considered to be "shouting".

https://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/article/KB-00927/dimensioning-cabinets-in-a-wall-elevation.html

All that I see is a gable roof (main front wall) with a full roof return extended out over the bay window. Posting the plan will most always get you a better answer.

https://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/article/KB-00752/creating-a-structure-that-is-built-on-piers.html

The glass wall is snapping over the end of the solid wall. One way to resolve this is to extend the solid wall out at least 6" (otherwise it will snap back) beyond the glass wall. In the real world, this wall probably should be extended that way. The other way, is to prevent the glass wall from snapping over the solid wall, by using 2 room divider walls, as shown. Back off the glass wall 1st, then zoom in and make the divider walls really tiny. Then drag the glass wall back so that it snaps to the divider wall. This set-up will maintain the shower as a separate "room".

This is why so many times it is important for someone to upload their plan to get help with a problem. Uploading your sample plan revealed what the problem was. You didn't follow the instructions I gave in my 1st post: " Use a railing wall, set to use 'panels', using a tempered glass material." I would still create a curb (for the glass to rest on top of) extending to the door, then leave the door "barrier-free".

Open your plan and then "save as" and give this "new" plan a different name, like maybe "stripped". Delete all the furniture and landscaping and most likely the "new" plan will be less that 25mb. CLOSE the plan, then upload this "new" plan file.

As you can see in the pic, the wall can reach the ceiling, and there is NO crown molding. The wall also rests on the floor, and there is NO base molding. No "work around" necessary. So I have NO clue, what you are doing. If you post your plan, maybe it will help.

You don't really need to add wall breaks on the wall. Just open the shower 'room' and delete the molding that you don't want. The railing wall ( glass, which forms the shower 'room') will not display the crown molding. The custom backsplash tool is great for adding the wall tile and decorative tile strip. Have you tried it?

OR... Use a wall break to separate the shower 'room' from the bath, then remove the moldings from the shower room. Use a railing wall, set to use 'panels', using a tempered glass material. You can set the preferred height for the glass wall, by setting the railing height. You will need to add a 'curb', but don't use a soffit, because it will take on the base molding. Use a closed box shape instead. https://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/article/KB-00886/creating-a-custom-glass-shower.html

HD Architectural 2018 shows this export as an option.

You are not offering a "Tip or Technique", you are asking for help with your project. This question belongs in the "Q&A" forum category. Arched soffit: Extra thick wall with an arched doorway. Ceiling soffit for a light: Divider wall "room" with added ceiling height.

Most likely it is not a program glitch. More likely it is an operator glitch. You need to be more specific about what you are trying to achieve, and then really specific about how you went about changing the material.

I did a more simple version of the large dormer, (created with Architectural 2018) this time with the default ceiling height of 95 5/8", and it looks like pic 1 (with auto roof turned on). When opened with Pro 2018 (trial) it still looks the same as pic 1 (auto-roof still turned on). When opened with Pro 2019 (auto-roof on) it looks like pic 2. WHY?? I know that it is easy to fix the roof planes with Pro's manual roof. Then open the smaller dormers dbx, click 'OK' and they magically reappear, too. But none of this should be necessary. I tried multiple settings to get this roof to auto build, without success. Why is Pro 2019 not reading directives from a plan created in a 2018 version correctly? Eric, DJP, anyone have an answer? I'm stumped. BalsamKnoll large dormer.plan