Jo_Ann

I think that all the Home Designer products allow this, and there is more than one way to do it. Try searching the knowledge base, or your reference manual for info on this.

Answer to #1 & #2: NO You must build and place them manually if you want to see them. This was shown in your last posted question.

Set the 'Build Roof' dialog to your default pitch ( 12"). It is currently set to 8". Open the 2nd floor back wall and set that pitch to 5.5" or 6". You still have not posted an image of the real house, to show what the front dormer is supposed to look like.

I think you are going about this in the wrong drawing order. Yes, you have to manually draw the winders and landing. It is what it is. Set their dimensions and height correctly, and connect them to each other. Draw the 1st straight stair section separate from the winders. Open the dialog and lock in the # of treads. Now carefully move it into position to automatically connect with the 1st winder. If you have set the height of the winders and landing correctly, the straight stair risers should reflect this. Draw in the upper stair section from the top landing to the 2nd floor. You can now drag the straight stair sections to elongate or shorten them, if you want the tread depth to increase or decrease.

If you really want to be picky, you can leave the "den" designated as a "garage", and then manually build in your own joists, platform and finished flooring. I used "closed box" shapes for the 2x6's (1.5 x 5.5"), and also the same for the plywood platform, and carpet. Not hard to do. You have to delete the foundation and then rebuild it to get correct results, if you have previously altered the foundation structure.

I have not looked at your plan, but I created this plan based on the information that you listed. Maybe it will help. TominOhio.plan

You need to ask this question in the "Q and A" discussion forum.

I was able to get this effect using these settings.

If your main house foundation is something that might be altered by choosing the 'build foundation' command, then you will have to manually build the foundations for the 2 new structures. If you turned off 'auto build roof' and then changed something in the main house (ceiling heights for example), then the 'build roof' dialog will mess things up. You HAVE to use the 'build roof' command to put a roof on the 2 new buildings. So, you will need to backstep whatever you did in the main house (to get that roof built correctly again).

They are invisible walls. Just click on them and delete.

https://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/database.html

Quick way to do this... Extend each north/south outer-most wall so that the house forms a rectangle, then allow the roof to rebuild. Open each new 'room' and put a check mark in 'use soffit surface for ceiling'. Turn off auto build roof and retract the extended walls back to their original position. You will need to manually manipulate the existing roof planes on the west end of the house, to get the gable to look correct (note the dashed roof plane lines on the floor plan pic).

Your terrain will look a lot smoother and better if you modify your regions, as shown. 2 regions (front right area) were also deleted.

Not much of a description of what you are trying to do, so I'll guess. If this is correct, then follow the directions (reference manual) for the 'winders'. You just have to play with it, trial and error, to get them smaller. The walls are all important for getting the winder function to work. Once I had it close, I opened the stair dbx and entered exact stair width and tread depth.

Because Suite doesn't have the 'wall covering' function, you will have to do a work-around. Use a soffit or a box shape, (made very thin) placed up against the wall, and sized to cover the wall space below the chair rail. Add your material to that.

This probably won't help with the 2d cross section, but it might help with the 3d presentation.

Step #3: " The handles located in the middle of the stair allow you to control the beginning point of the flare." https://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/article/KB-00506/adding-flares-or-curves-to-stairs.html

Many ways to model a fireplace. I suggest this: From the library, choose: fireplace>mantle height>stone fireplace 6. Place it up against the wall (not thru the wall). If you want a raised hearth, raise the fireplace off the floor. Choose either a soffit or a box shape for the missing pieces (shown in blue). If you don't want the mantle, select the fireplace, and choose 'explode architectural block' (tools at the bottom of the screen ). In the 3d view, select just the mantle, and delete it. Put the stone of your choice on all the parts as needed. Done.

Lots of info on dimensions in the knowledge base, too. https://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/article/KB-00491/changing-your-dimension-settings.html

If you are starting your building with the basement, then you are already sabotaging yourself. READ the User's Guide!

You're welcome!

Use 2 slabs, one thinner than the other (one is the riser, the other is the tread) with the appropriate materials applied. Change the front of the slab to an arc (both pieces). Raise the 'tread' to be above the 'riser'. OR..you could do a second deck (pic) lower than the 1st.

Here is another pic, using elevation lines instead of regions.

ScallyPads, Why is your ceiling height lower than the door? Besides that, you did not follow the recommended building suggestions provided by the user guide. It seems that you considered the terrain perimeter to be at 0", and then set your 1st floor structure, floor (C) to be above it by 28". I'm not saying you can't do that, but it creates a mathematical nightmare (particularly with the terrain). Floor 1 (C) should be set at 0". The terrain perimeter is then generated, and the sub-floor (in your case) is set to be 28" (terrain dbx) above the terrain (I had to delete your terrain, then recreate it, because it would not behave otherwise). THEN you can start working with elevation lines and regions, and set them to the numbers indicated on your plot chart. If you've ever read many posts on this forum, most people (including some moderators) recommend NOT using elevation points. I used only elevation regions, custom shaped to make the terrain contours follow your plot numbers. The red numbers showing on the terrain contour lines, are the elevations set by the program, in response to each region setting. For the most part, you can hardly see most of the elevation changes in a 3D view, unless you zoom in really close. State Street Landscape Plan Plot Plan JoAnn.plan

ScallyPads, You also need to post the PLAN file, and use the text tool (on the plan) to show what elevations need to be, and where. Posting some pics of the real existing house would also help someone to help you.