Jo_Ann

Check the knowledge base.

Food for thought.

https://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/article/KB-00099/accessing-your-archive-files.html

The south horizontal wall of the deck is causing a problem for some reason. Move it slightly to the north and the roof will build correctly.

ALL wall and room settings are critical for getting the roof to this stage. All temporary walls generated to guide the roof, can be deleted AFTER 'auto build roof" is turned OFF. I left the old garage walls as 'siding 6' for fewer complications. If you want the new addition ridge peak lower in height, change the north wall pitch (2nd floor) to maybe 4". It won't change the interior ceiling height. Wrenchmaster garage addition.plan

Yes. The ceilings are 10' in the new addition. 2nd floor ceilings are 8' at the north side. Old garage ceiling is 8'. Front fascia eave of the new addition matches the eave on the existing garage. How I got to this point with auto roofs is a nightmare, because the ceiling heights kept changing. Now that we know what your ceiling heights are and your roof pitch is, we can visually see what look you are trying to get. Therefore, because you have Pro, I think the easier option for you is to build the roof using the manual roof planes. DJP or Solver are much more qualified to assist you with this task.

Is this what you want?

Does this look more like what you are trying to do?

You can do this with auto roof build...BUT...You said that you wanted a higher ceiling (1st floor) and a 2nd floor in the addition???? Also, what are the pitches?

On floor 2: The north horizontal wall of the garage seems to be causing the problem. Move the wall to the south, until it is just beyond the green-dashed lines of the roof overhang.

Build/Floor/Delete foundation Build/Floor/Build Foundation Select 'walls with footings'. NEXT, on floor level 1: Open each and EVERY room (including closets) and designate the room as a 'slab'. Open the structure tab of each room and reset the floor finish (K) to 7/8. This should give you a 4" thick slab floor on top of stem walls with footings, and a finished wood floor (on level 1). P.S. You need to insert a pass-thru window in the wall that is blocking your sight into the fireplace hearth.

So which is it, an awning or a porch roof? They are not the same. Look in your library for an awning. Look in your user guide or the Home Designer Knowledge Base (website) for how to add a roof.

This prior thread might help. https://hometalk.chiefarchitect.com/index.php?/topic/2273-shed-roof-flat-roof-combo-not-working/

Zooming from exterior to interior (using the mouse scroll wheel) seems to be a new feature of HD2017. As David said, you can do the same thing using the arrow keys (HD 2016 and prior). However, you must use a FULL CAMERA view of the exterior, in order for it to work, as described.

I think this is what KevBel is wanting to do, although it is not feasible (in the real world). Water will flow downhill into the stairwell wall.

OR.. you could just change your ceiling finish (j) in the steam 'room' to 24" or whatever you need for it to be.

Re-post your plan with the new ceiling heights.

LawB10 I agree. I also would like to understand what causes that, because I have encountered it many times.

But...there is a work-around. On level 2, draw a new wall outside the offending east wall. Open this wall and set it to your 'high shed' gable. Extend the north wall over to the new wall, thereby creating a new room (a long narrow room). Open the the new room and check 'use soffit surface for ceiling'. Open the roof dialog and uncheck 'auto rebuild roof'. You can now delete the new wall and move the extended north wall back into place. If any osb is showing in the soffit area, try opening and reclosing the east wall. That usually gets rid of the osb and makes the whole soffit white.

What did you change the finished ceiling height to? It will affect the solution to your roof problem.

Look in your library for cabinet trim. In my library version it is found under: Interiors / Accessories / Kitchen Items / Cabinet Trim

Is this what you are trying to do? Make the 'C' wall invisible. Add one inverted wedge. Size it to match the lower roof pitch and cover up to the ceiling. Then copy/paste and rotate the 2nd wedge. Ctrl/drag the 2nd wedge into the 1st wedge (merge). This makes the interior wall. Ctrl select both wedges (together) and copy/paste. Move these together to the outside of the building and give them the siding material. You also need to expand the stairwell over the 1st floor set of stairs, or you are going to bonk your head.

You have made your attic walls invisible, therefore they are not showing as reaching the roof underside. If a lower cathedral ceiling below the trusses is what you want, you can model a slanted ceiling plane in sketch-up and import it into your model. OR...you can upgrade to HD Architectural and use a sloped soffit to represent that ceiling plane.

As David said, you need to explain things better. I was guessing at what you wanted. As solver said...you have to separate that jutted out area from the powder rm & bathroom with an invisible wall. It's the only way to set the ceiling in those 2 areas lower (2280mm will work). Reset the main powder rm & bath to 2420mm. Also, your right side front wall & the right side back wall of the house are not aligned with each other. When I open your plan, there is no roof showing over the porch. Once again....the right side railing is NOT straight. Reset the roof overhangs to about 550mm.

Is this the look you want? Do what solver said, PLUS---reset the bath ceilings to match the rest of the house. THEN, set both bump-out ceilings slightly lower. Also, notice that the gutter is covering the exterior wall, but the fascia is NOT. Look at the dashed green lines of the roof overhang on the 2D plan. The overhang needs to be bigger, to cover the bump-out wall. The invisible right porch railing wall is not straight.