Jo_Ann

You mentioned that you wanted to do an arched ceiling in the area between the soffits that you added (the soffits are not necessary). Is this what you want to do?

If this is what you want, then... First: Open the toolbar roof icon and reset pitch to 6" (leave 'auto build roof' checked). 2nd: Open the porch room and uncheck 'roof over this room'. Next: Break the wall as shown (move the bath window out of the way 1st). Designate yellow walls as 'gable', and also the 2 side railings of the porch. Set the 12" pitch on the 2 exterior walls (as shown). Open the front railing of the porch: Set the pitch to 1". Put a check in the 'upper pitch' box, set 'in from baseline' to 88". Open the porch room again, and lower the 'finished ceiling' to 97". Put the check mark back in the boxes 'roof over this room', 'ceiling over this room', and 'use soffit surface for ceiling'.

Turn auto build roof back on. On floor 2, you have the gable walls set as 'high shed gable'. They should be set as 'gable'. You didn't say what the 2nd roof pitch needed to be, but on floor 1... all 4 outer porch walls need to have the pitch changed to 4", and then the roof should build.

Use a box shape.

I was able to get this to work (with auto build roof) by adding a 3rd floor. 1st add the second floor over the entry, but make it shallower, and extend it into the room to the west. Then build the 3rd floor (blank plan) over the 2nd floor entry room, and align the walls. Set the gable wall roof. Next, lower the ceiling heights of each ENTRY room, beginning with floor 1. Ceiling heights are represented by the colors shown: floor1-green. floor2-orange. floor3-blue. attic-gold. You just need to play with your settings until ALL the roof is correct. ONLY THEN should you turn off auto build roof, and delete a lot of the unwanted extras, and raise the intended ceiling height. Don't be tempted to start adding interior walls and other stuff until the entire roof is correct!

As you can see, it was done in the Pro trial version, which can not be saved. You will have to play with it from scratch.

This is somewhat crude, but I did it using the custom backsplash.

Your current plan has NO dead valleys. BUT...what you need to do is...find out from your architect EXACTLY how the remaining original house roof is to be built/rejoined to intersect the new raised roof of the addition. The most recent elevations you posted show next to nothing to explain that. ONLY then will you have a chance at accurately recreating it in your plan.

Skylights: You are your own nemesis. The skylights you are attempting to place (in the kitchen cabinet area) will never work, not in the software and not in the real world. You have an intersecting roof ( part of the original roof) on both sides of the new vaulted addition (in that area). Skylights will not build over roof intersections. Skylights will not show through soffits, either. Wall material problem: 'Open Below' has nothing at all to do will your wall color problem. You are your own nemesis. Open the living room dbx. You have specified white textured plaster on the wall covering tab. DELETE. Now open the wall you wanted to add the lap siding to. On the wall covering tab, you have specified the color 'bone' for the wall. DELETE. Add the lap material on the 'materials' tab for the wall. You can now join your fireplace wall to the front wall, and it will not turn white.

It doesn't appear that you changed any of your settings in the current file, so I am just guessing.

Yes, you can do this in Suite. The samples were not done in the Pro trial (which is not savable), but in my Architectural 10 version using the same roof tools that Suite also has. Suite 2018 tools are much updated from mine, so it should be even easier.

Remember, a framed structure floor sits on top of a rim joist that is more than 12" tall, and a door sits at floor level. The siding also extends over part of the foundation wall, too.

I figured you were trying to save the expense of having to redo a fairly new roof, but it is what it is. A reputable architect or contractor would not build a roof like that (with the lower end of the shed roof eave butting up against a vertical wall). That is what DJP explains to you (bad architecture). Solver's idea for the front looks REALLY good, and might even cost less (not having to add that valley, and the compound rafter cuts required for over the door). Maybe an extended porch roof over only the entry door and porch area, instead of the whole length of the garage. Get an estimate and compare, before you dismiss the idea. Anyway, here are the two versions to look at. roof test D samples.plan

I'm really hoping that this is not what you are trying to do.

You might need to sketch want result you want, for anyone to understand.

Try setting the garage as unspecified, then check the those boxes and the monolithic slab box. The roof joining the garage is not correctly set, but I don't see it 'separating'.

???

Something like this?

Ceiling (B) put a check mark in the default box. Floor (C) put a check mark in the default box.

Do a 'save as' on your plan, and give it a new name, such as 'skeleton plan'. You can then make experimental changes on this plan while keeping your original plan intact. I have already seen this house pic before, but you do not explain what you are trying to change it to.

Not understanding what result you want. Also, you need to post the real plan, not just a partial plan.

Because you have HD Pro, and are planning to use it for other designs, you need to learn how to do manual roof planes. Leave 'auto rebuild roofs' off. Do what solver said, and also open the structure tab of the family room, and uncheck 'ceiling over this room'. I can see by comparing the real house pics to the 2d plan, that your roof baseline is not set correctly. It appears to be much higher. Once you have those settings fixed, I think the easiest way to put the roof over the bedroom area is by copy/paste of the main roof plane. After resizing the new roof plane, set it's ridge height to match the main roof (ridge height) and lock it. Then set the pitch to something lower, like maybe 6/12.

Here is a version with the roof improved. designer468 house.plan

In the roof dialog box, the eaves are set to 42". Because you can't change eave overhang on individual walls, the eaves are blending into the roof. Also, the pitch was changed to 5/12 on that part of the roof, making it even more likely to blend. In the real world, maybe the overhang is less, and therefore will not blend. But in the software version, this is what happens. The current version of Pro, allows overhang depth change on individual walls. I don't know if HDA allows it. When the depth is changed, the overhang does not blend into the roof below it, and it looks just like the pdf.