Jo_Ann

CottageDesigner, Reread the instructions I gave.

The block 'cube' doesn't appear until you have 2 items jointly selected.

A little bit of trickery required. Divide the bump-out room with a wall (as shown), and use the settings shown. Move the high shed wall in or out until everything builds correct. Keep checking your structure settings dialog to make sure the program doesn't auto check the box for 'roof over this room'. It can be finicky. Move up to the attic level, and drag each existing gable attic wall over to connect with the main wall of the house. This fills the hole left in the exterior gable wall by the 'no roof' room.

I don't know why your door framing doesn't show, but in my version it does. Also, I turned off 'auto rebuild roof', then raised the ceiling and checked 'ceiling over this room'. As you can see, the program then added the framing for the ceiling. With this type of plan, NEVER raise the ceiling until you have turned off 'auto rebuild roof', or the whole roof will raise. NEVER rebuild the roof again after you have raised the ceiling.

Reduce the depth of your 2nd floor deck, and reconnect the attic wall in front of it. Also, designating that deck as a 'balcony' seems to make it play nicer with the porch ceiling below it. With your framing 3d window the 'active' window, go to your display options and check 'railings'.

Have you tried? It's no different than adding a deck, same as you did on floor 1.

Yes, it's do-able. If you have checked "ignore 2nd floor" in the build roof dialog, uncheck it. Instead, set the 2nd floor "finished ceiling" to 0. On the 2nd floor,designate the end walls as "gable" and set the eave walls at 12/12. On floor1, the outer porch walls need to be set using the lower/upper pitch (4, 12). The "in from baseline" should be set the same as the depth of the porch. Now, begin raising the second floor ceiling until the gable ends pop up. Also, don't post pdf's. Post jpegs.

Nice looking!

However, you can temporarily 'group' the windows together by holding the control key and selecting each window. The 'unit' can then be copy/pasted or moved as one window, until deselected.

Go back to the Knowledge Database and type 'house on piers' in the search bar.

A doll house view of the 1st floor, will not show 2nd floor walls. The high rise foyer walls that are showing probably do not have a 2nd floor adjacent to them, as do the foyer walls to the left of the stairs and opposite the stairs. Those other foyer walls are also part of the 2nd floor, and therefore will not show. I'll bet that if you look at a doll house view of floor 2, the foyer walls now showing on floor 1 view, will not be there.

Keith, Are you familiar with 'Murphy's Law'???

On the knowledge base page, Type 'walk out basement' in the search bar.

https://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/article/KB-00210/using-open-below-rooms-to-define-an-opening-to-a-lower-floor.html

That's why you need to download the free Sketchup program, and fix the symbols in there, 1st, before you import them into HD.

Are you using the 'full camera' instead of 'full perspective' camera? Orbiting with the full camera will produce distortion. Vertically tile the 2d window and the 3d window. Then (in the 2d window) grab the camera handles and move it to where needed. Usually no distortion this way, and you can still view the 3d.

I am getting a different interpretation (than Eric's idea) of what you want. Because you have Pro, you can do it this way. Place an interior wall, and slightly embed it into the staircase (this will hide balusters, but leave a handrail). In a 3d view or elevation view, select the wal and drag the entire bottom up (if needed) to the lowest part of the stringer. Grab the bottom handle (opposite side) and drag it up diagonally (to where it needs to be). Done.

Here is the link to your post in the old forum: http://hometalk.homedesignersoftware.com/showthread.php?19471-Roof-Wall-Height This floor plan should help. I did this with HDA10 by tracing over your floor plan jpg, so the dimensions in my plan will not be exactly as yours. But it should be close. I don't know if your program will open this file. If you download the free trial of HDA2016, you will be able to open it. Comparing my settings to yours, should help fix things. Smileyflower house.zip

GSettle, I think that anyone on this forum, trying to help, always appreciates seeing what the end results are. Good luck!

I wouldn't use partitions, because they make adding a door very tricky and inconvenient. Using a wall will allow you to add a door that you can open to see the shelving inside the pantry 'room'. Using a 'half-wall' allows you to set it's height. The program will allow you to set it's thickness to a minimum of 27mm, but I think that's good enough to provide some stability. Using a cad line (shown in red) set to the dimension you need, will assist you in placing the walls. Use a custom countertop and shape it for the shelves. Once correctly shaped, open the dbx and uncheck "set height from cabinet". With shelf selected, copy/paste/hold position for however many shelves that you need. In the 3d window, grab each shelf and drag it to the correct height position. Lastly, add another custom countertop and precisely shape it to fit the pantry 'room'. Open the dbx and uncheck "set height from cabinet". Once again in 3d, drag it up to the top of the room to become the 'ceiling' of the 'room'. Hope this helps

Terrains are very finicky, but maybe this will get you started. I used solid railing walls for the retaining walls, so the height could be set (80"). Place a flat region (terrain tools) over the entire terrain perimeter, then reshape it around everything using the line break tool. Study pic #2 for everything else that is needed.

Once again.. Start out by opening the atrium room dbx's and selecting 'no roof over this room'. Select all atrium walls and open the wall dbx to the roof tab, and select 'high shed' roof, and you can also set-back the overhang to about 76mm. Since you have Pro, you can now begin re-shaping the roof edges at the atrium walls. Study your reference guide on how to manipulate the roof planes. I believe that you will also have to change the pitch on some of the planes, to get them to come together at the same height where they meet on the atrium walls. Practice and experiment.

Top center roof is the greenhouse. Lower left is done using skylights. Lower right is done using the atrium window sections.

After placing the dormer higher up on the roof, grab the move handle and carefully drag it down to the front wall. Open the dbx. The gable pitch will probably need to be set lower than the default 12". Hopefully, Suite has the option to change the eave overhang. Change it to about 24". Open the 'walls' tab in the dbx and set the height to 6" (it won't allow anything lower). Set the width, also. Your 'rain diverter' should now look just like Eric's pic.

LawB10, I used a greenhouse (on the left) and atrium window sections (on the right). You will find them in the library. Set them at your desired height. You must 1st get the roof correct. Obviously the atrium room is set as 'no roof over this room'. The walls of the atrium are set as 'high shed gable'.