Jo_Ann

I used a different approach. Back porch, west side railing wall needs to be set as full gable. You have the build roof dialog set to 'ignore 2nd floor'. Uncheck it. Now you need to lower the 2nd floor finished ceiling to 60", so it will blend into the porch roof (reset height after you turn off rebuild roof). The 2nd floor needs to extend out over the porch for a dormer: Draw 3 new walls for the dormer. Break the original front wall of the house at each dormer side wall. Drag the original front wall back into the house until the roof looks correct (don't forget to set the dormer front wall as gable). Open the dormer room and set the finished ceiling height to about 88", or whatever sets the height of the roof correctly.

The truss was done with regular soffits, sloped soffits, and cylinder shapes (for the bolts). It was then 'blocked'. The purlins were done using the custom backsplash. Then copy/pasted, and moved into position.

There is a basic cape cod plan in the TEMPLATES folder of HDPro 2018 (plan2249.plan). It might be helpful to you, to be able to see how they did it.

A big slow down might happen if you have recently added some sketchup symbols. Have you recently added a lot of landscaping?

For some reason, the balcony wall below that roof oddity is causing the problem. Move it 2" in either direction, and roof oddity goes away.

On the same floor level that you created the terrain: TOOLBAR: Terrain / Terrain Feature / Terrain Hole

A workaround: Does your floor structure height (L) need to be less? Change the entire floor level room type to "SLAB". The slab floor structure (L) is only 4". Since Architectural doesn't show framing anyway, go ahead and set your floor finish (K) to what ever dimension it needs to be, to replicate the final finished floor height that you need.

Settings you need to change: South wall of the flat-roofed room is set as a "high shed gable". Unset that. Open west wall, and north wall of the flat-roofed room, and on the roof tab, set the pitch to "0" ( it will default to 1.2). Open room structure dbx and set the finished ceiling to a maximum of 2670mm. Rebuild roof.

With Suite, your only choice is to cover up either the inside wall OR the outside wall. Use thin soffits (cabinet tool) or thin wedges (library shapes), then apply the chosen material to the cover-up.

Maybe this kb article will also be of use. https://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/article/KB-00886/creating-a-custom-glass-shower.html BUT.. it doesn't really tell all the details. In my example, I used a half wall, then slid a soffit (using glass material) into the half wall, and resized it's height. The door was a whole lot trickier.

What part of "Get rid of ALL the "accessories". Furniture, cars, all the terrain items etc" didn't you understand???

On the EDIT toolbar: Terrain / terrain feature / terrain hole, for the window wells. If you want the slabs to show color in the 2d plan, keep the fill style set to 'solid' and change the 'transparency' setting to about 60%.

I suspected this had something to do with it. I think by default it is set to 'none', and maybe you changed it.

Have you tried to update your graphic card drivers? That might also update the OpenGL.

You might try using 2 slabs for seating benches (1 for the base, 2nd for the cap). Manipulate the height, width, and curve to get exactly what you want. Then hold down control key, and select both slabs/copy/paste, and you will have 2 benches that are identical.

Reviewing the knowledge base will help you find some answers. View topics about story and a half type structures.

Maybe if you better explained what you are trying to do, or show an example, someone might be able to help.

??? You haven't said what the problem is. Post an image of what is happening.

briancaos, On floor 1, the south wall of the livingroom is marked "high shed gable". The north wall of the master bath is also marked "high shed gable". Remove that setting from the bath wall.

swarren, briancaos has Architectural, not Pro. Adjusting roof planes is not an option for him.

Before making any changes to the roof, I placed a soffit at the top of the west ridge of the original cabin, for a visual purpose. I then changed the west and east walls of the addition to a 19/12 pitch. As you can see, the soffit and the original roof are still at the same pitch/height as they were, before changing the pitch of the addition.

Raise the roof pitch on the east and west walls of the addition, to about 19.

Re-open your original topic that was posted in Q&A, and resume your questions. What I'm trying to say, is that this is a complicated design, and your OWN exact measurements will get your desired results, ONLY. My plan would be of NO benefit to you at all, because all of my settings are just guesses. My plan was all done using auto build roof, and that means lots of settings are used that are different, as opposed to HD Pro. By using only the trial version, you are unable to post your plan, and that pretty much destroys getting any constructive help.

You need to move this topic back over to Q&A, where it belongs. I don't think that anyone can offer much constructive help, without knowing what the real dimensions (floor heights, ceiling heights, and roof pitch) really are.