Jo_Ann

Re-post your plan with the new ceiling heights.

LawB10 I agree. I also would like to understand what causes that, because I have encountered it many times.

But...there is a work-around. On level 2, draw a new wall outside the offending east wall. Open this wall and set it to your 'high shed' gable. Extend the north wall over to the new wall, thereby creating a new room (a long narrow room). Open the the new room and check 'use soffit surface for ceiling'. Open the roof dialog and uncheck 'auto rebuild roof'. You can now delete the new wall and move the extended north wall back into place. If any osb is showing in the soffit area, try opening and reclosing the east wall. That usually gets rid of the osb and makes the whole soffit white.

What did you change the finished ceiling height to? It will affect the solution to your roof problem.

Look in your library for cabinet trim. In my library version it is found under: Interiors / Accessories / Kitchen Items / Cabinet Trim

Is this what you are trying to do? Make the 'C' wall invisible. Add one inverted wedge. Size it to match the lower roof pitch and cover up to the ceiling. Then copy/paste and rotate the 2nd wedge. Ctrl/drag the 2nd wedge into the 1st wedge (merge). This makes the interior wall. Ctrl select both wedges (together) and copy/paste. Move these together to the outside of the building and give them the siding material. You also need to expand the stairwell over the 1st floor set of stairs, or you are going to bonk your head.

You have made your attic walls invisible, therefore they are not showing as reaching the roof underside. If a lower cathedral ceiling below the trusses is what you want, you can model a slanted ceiling plane in sketch-up and import it into your model. OR...you can upgrade to HD Architectural and use a sloped soffit to represent that ceiling plane.

As David said, you need to explain things better. I was guessing at what you wanted. As solver said...you have to separate that jutted out area from the powder rm & bathroom with an invisible wall. It's the only way to set the ceiling in those 2 areas lower (2280mm will work). Reset the main powder rm & bath to 2420mm. Also, your right side front wall & the right side back wall of the house are not aligned with each other. When I open your plan, there is no roof showing over the porch. Once again....the right side railing is NOT straight. Reset the roof overhangs to about 550mm.

Is this the look you want? Do what solver said, PLUS---reset the bath ceilings to match the rest of the house. THEN, set both bump-out ceilings slightly lower. Also, notice that the gutter is covering the exterior wall, but the fascia is NOT. Look at the dashed green lines of the roof overhang on the 2D plan. The overhang needs to be bigger, to cover the bump-out wall. The invisible right porch railing wall is not straight.

Begin with your user guide. Look for helpful tips in the knowledge base articles. Set defaults, and draw exterior walls. If the garage is attached, draw the interior wall that separates it from the house, and designate it as the garage. Get the roof structure correct. Build the foundation. Build the terrain. The terrain elevation is set according to the house, NOT the reverse (floor 1 should always be set as '0'). Learn how to manipulate the terrain to expose all or part of the daylight basement that needs to show. These rules and sequences need to be followed, or you will be frustrated somewhere further down the road! Newbies are all too anxious to draw interior walls and start decorating. BIG mistake!

According to the knowledge base article, only Pro allows this feature. Save yourself all the hassle, and just add the microwave to a 2nd base cabinet (toe kick deleted) placed above the oven cabinet.

Open each and every room dbx on floor 1, and put a check in the default box for floor structure(L). Some of the rooms are already checked, and those are the rooms already showing the framing. The next step (of course) is to open the build framing dialog, and put a check in the 'build floor framing' box.

OR... You could draw in an independent room, using the railing wall (make it an 'unspecified' room type), to represent the landing. Set to the right height, this room will automatically show the door swing.

You really should have a landing there. But despite that, there is no option to 'move to the front of group' for doors. It would just be easier to draw in the door swing with cad lines, to represent the door.

Not showing up in the downloaded plan. But I think that if you slightly pull back the edge of the 1st floor roof plane, the problem will go away.

Here's another try at this. Open the room spec box for the entry/hall room. Uncheck 'monolithic slab foundation'. This makes some of the concrete to the left of the step (in the living room) disappear. The concrete showing above the step is appearing because the wall is invisible. Make the wall solid and the concrete is gone. Now is the time to put a doorway there. Next: Open the entry/hall dbx again and look at the floor structure(L). Now open the room dbx for the right front bedroom, and compare the floor structure (L) there. This is why the front door looks to be at a higher elevation than the front room.

Why oh why would you delete your foundation slab? The house has to have a foundation. Rebuild the foundation. Look in the living room and you will see a large slab has appeared. Go back to level 0, and turn on the reference display (so that you can see which part of the slab is showing in the LR). I don't know if this is the correct way to do this, but....select that small slab portion and delete it. Check the living room to see if the concrete is gone. Of course the foundation is going to show outside the front door. What did you expect? Create the terrain perimeter and the put in a porch slab or step in front of the door. Like DCortes said, use a doorway instead of an invisible wall, at the entry to the LR.

The trial version I am using is HD Pro 17, and I fixed this using YOUR plan, just like I said. Did you change anything after you posted the plan? You can always re-download the plan that you posted, and see if there is a difference.

Easy. One horizontal soffit, one vertical soffit. Two sloped soffits One cylinder shape (rounded bottom of vertical soffit). Build it in place at one of the gables. Hold down control and select each piece (easiest to do in 3d view), and block it. Select/copy/paste the block for the other gables.

HD trial versions do not allow anything to be saved, so I can't post the fixed plan. The best I can do, is to show these pics of the plan you posted, showing the problem foundation wall (gap).

I think the soffit method is simpler and quicker to use, especially if the tile doesn't extend to the ceiling. A chair rail (sized smaller and thinner) above the tile, finishes it off nicely. The more attention you pay to details, the better the result you will get.

I did the steps I indicated on the plan you submitted, without changing any of your existing settings. If your garage door is not cutting the concrete, then the foundation wall must still not be aligned. Do a doll house view and zoom in on the floor area at the garage door (inside). If there is no concrete wall beneath the exterior level 1 wall, then the garage door will only build within the exterior 1st floor wall (because there is no concrete below to build into). In your plan, it looks like there are a lot of your foundation walls that are not properly aligned.

Like LawB10 said, you need to realign the front foundation wall of the garage. Drop to level 0, turn on 'reference floor' display. Zoom in and drag that front foundation wall as close to align with wall above as you can get. Then right click and select 'align with wall above' to let the software make an exact alignment. Back on level 1, open the garage door dbx, and click 'ok'. Like magic, the garage door will now cut into the concrete as expected.

The deck did not display, because the exterior house wall it connected to....was set as having 'no room definition'. Attic walls are set that way.

Grab the end of the corrected attic wall, and drag it over the remaining attic wall. This will give you a straight wall with no jog. I think the issue occurs when a roof overhang (unseen roof overhang) cuts into another exterior wall.