Jo_Ann

Open the stair specification dialog, style tab. Scroll down to options and uncheck "allow wrap" Redo the stair again, to see if that worked. Are your stair walls marked as "no room definition"?

Also buried in the library: interiors / furniture / storage furniture / shelving/wall shelves / closet shelf w/ rod

After you have resized the window, select it. The distance between the window and the wall should be displayed. Click on this distance, and the distance will be highlighted and in a box. Enter the exact distance that you want, and your window will move.

Hi Keith! Happy New Year to you also! I think I found a way to add/remove the ceiling joist display, quickly. In the default settings, open the floor structure tab. Edit the ceiling structure to 0. This should be a quick easy way to avoid seeing that display, and reset it back to normal when your view changes.

Acropolis Once again...copy/paste. Open a plan with the wall type that you want to reuse . Select and copy the wall. Open a new plan and tile it beside the other plan. In the top toolbar, select edit/ paste, and paste the wall type into the new plan. This wall type will now show up in the default wall types (edit/default settings/exterior wall) offered for use in this new plan. Set it there, as the wall type that you want to use.

Guadalupe

I feel your pain.

I've also done what you are proposing too, and without plans. My starting place was my county auditor's property search site, where I found the sketch of the exterior walls/shell of the house, with the dimensions. You will need to search to find out if Australia offers the same type of public records. Once I had the exterior walls drawn, I then did an aerial view of the house...and this helped me to get the roof correct. From that point, my memory served me to draw the interior walls for the rooms. I can now walk through the rooms of my virtual house whenever I want. This is as close as I will ever get to revisiting the house, because an investment company demolished it several years ago. As the song lyrics say, "They paved paradise and put up a parking lot".

https://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/article/KB-00998/troubleshooting-why-a-structure-appears-small-and-distant-in-a-full-overview-or-dollhouse-camera-view.html

Everything DJP and Solver said is relevant. Add your program title AND it's version in your signature, if you expect to get help. You also need to upload your plan, in order to get specific help. You have chosen to build a complicated roof for a newbie. Some of it will probably have to be modeled in Sketchup and imported into the plan. Problem 1-. Ever heard of copy/paste??? Lastly, if you are wanting software that does flips, then you need to upgrade to Chief Premier (used by architects and building contractors). It is pricey, and has an extensive learning curve.

Hi Keith! I think that gap is where the ceiling joists are supposed to be. I don't know if there is an easy way for it to not be displayed.

Try opening the deck room dbx and put a check mark in the box for "use soffit surface for ceiling".

In the reference manual under 'Electrical Tools' you will find this statement : "Click in floor plan view to place an electrical object. Some can only be placed against walls, some only on the ceiling or floor."

Check your Reference Manual

Sloped soffits are not available with the Interiors program. Your work-around is to create them using Sketchup.

It may not be easy to see, but there IS a 4' overhang over the front door.

Check the knowledge base.

Food for thought.

https://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/article/KB-00099/accessing-your-archive-files.html

The south horizontal wall of the deck is causing a problem for some reason. Move it slightly to the north and the roof will build correctly.

ALL wall and room settings are critical for getting the roof to this stage. All temporary walls generated to guide the roof, can be deleted AFTER 'auto build roof" is turned OFF. I left the old garage walls as 'siding 6' for fewer complications. If you want the new addition ridge peak lower in height, change the north wall pitch (2nd floor) to maybe 4". It won't change the interior ceiling height. Wrenchmaster garage addition.plan

Yes. The ceilings are 10' in the new addition. 2nd floor ceilings are 8' at the north side. Old garage ceiling is 8'. Front fascia eave of the new addition matches the eave on the existing garage. How I got to this point with auto roofs is a nightmare, because the ceiling heights kept changing. Now that we know what your ceiling heights are and your roof pitch is, we can visually see what look you are trying to get. Therefore, because you have Pro, I think the easier option for you is to build the roof using the manual roof planes. DJP or Solver are much more qualified to assist you with this task.

Is this what you want?

Does this look more like what you are trying to do?

You can do this with auto roof build...BUT...You said that you wanted a higher ceiling (1st floor) and a 2nd floor in the addition???? Also, what are the pitches?