Jo_Ann
-
Posts
1598 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Everything posted by Jo_Ann
-
I think it almost always involves an incorrect wall placement. You just need to start moving walls around until you hit on the one causing the problem.
-
When opened with Pro, the attic wall shows with siding. When opened with Architectural, the siding is missing. On that attic wall missing the siding, do a careful, slight, control /drag back towards the house, until the siding appears.
-
If you are thinking of striated or scalloped shaped siding, look in the library materials under roofing / shakes and shingles.
-
1. As DJP said, draw foundation walls on level 0, below the porch walls. 2. I suspect you 'deleted' the rails by selecting 'no rail' on the railing tab of the wall. Instead, make the wall invisible. 3. Draw a slab in front of the porch, same height as the porch, but sized to look like a stair tread. Then place the stairs in front of it You will also need to extend the slab down to meet the ground..
-
Use an isometric wedge (on end) from the library (shapes / wedges), carefully sized and made thin, to cover the exterior siding that is showing because of the vaulted ceiling. For the stairs...draw an interior wall parallel to the stairs, then carefully ctrl / drag it into and slightly beneath the right side stair wall.
- 4 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- ceiling
- exterior material
- (and 1 more)
-
Just be sure that you are using the 'break line' tool....NOT the 'break wall' tool. https://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/article/KB-00983/creating-a-custom-shaped-countertop.html
-
A custom countertop is easy to use as an enclosure, BUT...it has to be shaped around the outside of the tub! The tub on the left is done this way. The tub on the right uses the same countertop, but with cabinet panels inserted into the sides. A custom countertop (with water material) is shaped to fit inside the tub.
-
Sloped soffits can also be your friend. https://hometalk.chiefarchitect.com/index.php?/topic/1993-changing-interior-stair-railings-to-panels/
-
Another way to add a rail is with a soffit, (sized to mimic a rail), and with countertop cove molding added to it. Then carefully placed into the cabinet door, at the height you prefer.
-
My library contains an arch (exteriors / landscaping / arbors and arches / arch). Resized and carefully placed, (along with a few wedge shapes to cover up bare spots), this works quick and easy.
-
https://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/article/KB-00924/customizing-a-material.html
-
Probably the 1st thing you can do for headache prevention, is to delete ALL of the elevation points. Open the basic terrain perimeter dbx and uncheck 'flatten pad'. I got the results shown by using elevation regions, sized and shaped around the structure (pic #1). They are all set at different elevations. You will have to play with them, to get whatever desired results you want.
-
You didn't read either article closely enough. They both have the answer, and it IS a 'shed' roof...more specifically a 'high shed' roof (and it says so in the knowledge base article). The trick is to create a skinny room in the center of the structure, and specify 'no roof' over the room.
-
In addition to what Elovia said, you might also find it useful to download the French Provincial sample plan (from the Home Designer samples gallery). You can then study how they did it, using a real model.
- 10 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- Dormer
- Wall dormer
- (and 1 more)
-
Read this knowledge base article: https://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/article/KB-00147/selecting-a-sink-after-it-is-placed-in-a-cabinet.html If you are trying to resize the sink, you might be able to place it outside of the base cabinet. Resize it and then drag it into the cabinet.
- 5 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- Sing
- base cabinet
- (and 1 more)
-
Rotate the FACE of the countertop, then control / drag it up against the back of the cabinet! Easy peezy DONE!
-
Try changing the direction of the cabinet (countertop).
-
This knowledge base article will give you the info that you need. https://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/article/KB-00210/using-open-below-rooms-to-define-an-opening-to-a-lower-floor.html You 1st need to set the floor 1 'veranda' ceiling heights to a normal height. Then build floor 2 over the existing 'veranda' walls. Follow the tutorial for setting the 'open below' room over most of the 'veranda'.
-
You have added straight walls to your prow. These aren't needed unless you want them. Open each prow wall dbx. On the roof tab, first change the pitch to match the upper pitch of the gambrel roof. Then check the 'high shed' option. This should correctly place your roof. Also, open the prow 'room' dbx. Set the room as 'open below', then move to the structure tab. Uncheck 'ceiling over this room' and put a check in 'use soffit for ceiling'. Hopefully, your prow will now look good.
-
Did you build a 2nd floor (finished ceiling '0') and then create the gambrel roof on floor 2? The prow point needs to be on floor 2.
-
I have installed a lot of old software on Windows 10, 64 bit (including HD Architectural 10) and have had no problems. What really surprised me was how well the intel integrated graphics handled the 3d display (better than my old nvidia dedicated card). The big problem happens with older hardware. If the manufacturer hasn't offered an updated driver, you are doomed.
-
Stairs : Wall-mounted hand rail, and wainscoting/panelling
Jo_Ann replied to DavesBonnyLass's topic in Q&A
No file attached. You could use a wedge shape (from the library), carefully sized, then made thin and placed up against the wall. No molding can be added, but a beadboard material could be applied. If the stairs are open underneath, a regular wedge and an inverted wedge could be used together (one above/below the other), to simulate an angled wall. -
After you've gotten the gambrel roof, check the knowledge base for 'prow roof'.
-
My best guesses.
-
I agree with Eric. The style of roof you want (?), and how you are making it 'lower' is waaay too vague.
