Jo_Ann

Draw the porch using railing walls, set the rail tab to 'no rail', set 'large' posts, and set post to 'ceiling' or 'beam'. Open the room dbx and set the room type as 'porch'. On the structure tab, set 'roof over this room', use 'soffit for ceiling'. You should now have a concrete floor, and posts to the ceiling (depicted in your pdf). To eliminate the 'attic' end walls, make them invisible (on the attic level).

Does the patio have a roof over it that looks like the pic?

Not really enough info....but is this what it is supposed to look like?

In the tiny profile thumbnail, the area Eric circled shows the left wall is raised. In your program pic, the left wall roof is extended all the way down to the top of floor one. Which photo is correct?

I still don't know what 'brick' you guys are talking about? All I see is dark fp plank flooring.

I also tried every room, and changing to deck room, then back to master bedroom was the only way I could force a change. Strange

Very puzzling floor situation. HDA2015 does NOT have a default box to check (in the dbx structure tab) next to floor structure (L), so this means that Suite doesn't have it either (checking that box would fix the problem) The general tab is checked for use room type, and also for use default for room type. Yet, the 4" floor structure still won't change to the default 12 5/8", for master bedroom room type. Open a 3d framing view and vertically tile it next to the 2d plan view. You can see that there is no floor framing in the rooms with the incorrect floor structure. Open the master bedroom dbx and change the room type to deck. You can see the floor change in the 3d view. Re-open the room dbx and change the room type back to master bedroom. You should now see floor framing in the 3d view, and the structure tab should now show the floor structure (L) as 12 5/8". I have no idea why this was so stubborn to fix, or why a runaround was necessary to force it to work , but I tried everything else I could think of with no results. You will have to change each incorrect room individually. You will now need to make some adjustments in the garage level 0, too. Also, you have some fixing to do on the 2nd floor if you plan to use it.

That is 'Z' fighting. Go to the knowledge base articles and enter 'Z fighting' in the search bar. There are several articles about it.

Check device manager>display adapter to make sure that your nvidia card shows there (and is the card being used by windows10). Pressing windows+x is supposed to bring up a window allowing you to access device manager quickly.

Just for fun, here's another idea.

Elovia, I thought about that, but couldn't figure out how to manage it without compromising spaciousness (due to the headroom issues for the stairs and shower). The original bath also takes advantage of the sloped ceiling, to create a bigger space. Moving the kitchen (pic #1) under the bath, works....but the living space downstairs suffers, and becomes an uncomfortable pass-through between the front and back doors. Moving the bath instead, seems to work better (pic #2). Although the bath now sucks up the 90" ceiling area upstairs, it still seems to leave enough 90" ceiling area in the bedroom. If Perkins47 opts to not close off the stairwell, the bedroom would feel even bigger, especially if windows (overlooking the back yard) were added.

Here are some ideas for the tiny house. Raise the 2nd floor walls by 24" (as Eric suggested?), but raise the back wall an additional 66" (lower roof pitch on that wall). This solves headroom problems for the stairs and the shower, and makes the 2nd floor SO much more functional. Close off the 2nd floor? I can't really see the point for that in such a small footprint (especially if you want the 2nd floor to be readily usable at all times). But, if desired closed, I would put a pocket door at the 2nd landing, thereby leaving a more open feeling to the 1st floor room. The stairs have about an 8" rise, and a 9" tread . My own basement stairs have this rise/tread, and they are not uncomfortable to use. Tiny appliances and fixtures? You want a tiny HOUSE, otherwise just buy a camper and park it on the property. Use an apartment size range, fridge. I would use a full size double bowl sink in the kitchen area, and a minimal sink/vanity in the bathroom. Please keep the bathroom upstairs. Sounds,odors,and line-of-sight to the toilet in the livingroom/kitchen area (a tight space) would not be a very desirable experience! With this type of layout, I think you can kick back on the sofa to watch tv, without feeling claustrophobic.

Thanks for the jpg footprint, Kbird. This what I would think the roof would look like.

The house pic in post #22, has a room extended to the right of the porch roof, which the porch roof abuts to. That is why my pic (post #25) shows that room. That room creates a problem with the porch's shed roof.

The completed house does not look like the pic in post #22.

Here is a basic plan. Not knowing what your own settings are (dimensions, ceiling heights, roof pitches), you will most likely need to play with a lot of your settings to get it to work. The 'L' room on the right creates a problem for the porch roof. A workaround is shown. I hope this plan opens in HDA16 the same way it looks in HDA10. Sometimes they don't. At least it should give you a starting point, and some ideas. HDA2015 will not open a HDA 2016 file, so I couldn't see what your settings are. porch roof.plan

So sorry to hear about the heart attacks! Rest up and get better! You should stroll on over to the chieftalk website and see what they have to say about windows10!

I agree with what Eric said, BUT...viewing sample plans can be very helpful (to see how they did something). Also, I've noticed that many of the samples have errors, perhaps on purpose, to motivate the user to learn how to fix them? The trial download of HD2015 runs fine on my XP, but the trial HD2016 won't even launch. If you are wanting to upgrade to HD2015, I think you might find it on Amazon.

However....If you study the different templates offered when opening a new plan, you will find that some of the wall cabinets have a crown molding on them. Some of the base cabinets have a molded edge on the countertop, too. If you already have your plan done using the default template, open a new plan (template with crown molding) and tile it vertically alongside your existing plan. Place a cabinet in that new plan. Copy/paste that cabinet (with the crown molding) into your existing plan.

Is this what you want the porch roof to look like? I noticed that you have a floor under the extended 'portico'. I thought you only wanted to extend the roof?

Look in the 'templates' folder. There is more stuff in there.

If this is an existing house, post a good pic of the front. Also post a pic of what progress you have made in HDA. So MANY variables, need to see what is going on with your own example, in order to explain a plan of attack.

So I had to experiment with this porch on a single story. It took a lot of finagling.

You can extend the 'portico' out as far as you want to. When you uncheck 'ceiling over this room', be sure to check 'use soffit for ceiling', because this will clean up the ceiling. Also, if you want to leave auto roof on, (and not delete the room), specify the room as 'open below'. That will get rid of the unwanted floor.

Describe in more detail, what is not working? Or post the plan so we can see what is going on (or not going on !) .