Jo_Ann

It looks like she is leaning toward a 'beachy' craftsman style, and I think pics #12,13,14, really follow through with the rest of the house design style. Looks good, Eric!

Ha Ha. Thanks, LawB10. Have you tried it?

Thanks, Eric. I hope it can benefit DavisR, using the limited tools of Suite.

This is mostly done with the tools that Suite has. The arch was created in sketchup and imported, because the arch in the library (exteriors>landscaping>arbors and arches) did not work well. The walls and roof above the arch were created by adding a 2nd floor over that area. Wedges (library>shapes) were also used around the arch to fill in wall space. The ledge and walls below the pillars are soffits. Once something like this has been created, you can use the edit area tool to copy/paste if you need more than one. This would be easier if Suite had pony walls, but I don't think that has been added to Suite.

My idea for the bedroom roof.

For roof overhangs on individual walls, read this kb article: https://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/article/KB-00077/specifying-different-roof-overhangs-on-different-walls.html It might not work well if it is just over the bay window where you are wanting to change the overhang. A manual bay window might work better. After you are completely finished building the roof, turn OFF 'auto build roof'. In the 3d window, you can then use the paint can to change the roof on only the bay window. If you rebuild the roof again, you will have to reapply the material. As Mick said, select the bay window, the hit tab to select an individual window. You can then open that window dbx and change your color.

What Mick means, is... uncheck 'upper pitch' on the gable walls. Open each side wall and set the upper/lower pitch there.

Did you try to place a rug from 'flooring>rugs' ? You have to place a rug object 1st. In my library version it is found in 'interiors>accessories>rugs'. THEN you can choose a material from 'flooring/rugs', or choose a style of your own.

Draw the porch using railing walls, set the rail tab to 'no rail', set 'large' posts, and set post to 'ceiling' or 'beam'. Open the room dbx and set the room type as 'porch'. On the structure tab, set 'roof over this room', use 'soffit for ceiling'. You should now have a concrete floor, and posts to the ceiling (depicted in your pdf). To eliminate the 'attic' end walls, make them invisible (on the attic level).

Does the patio have a roof over it that looks like the pic?

Not really enough info....but is this what it is supposed to look like?

In the tiny profile thumbnail, the area Eric circled shows the left wall is raised. In your program pic, the left wall roof is extended all the way down to the top of floor one. Which photo is correct?

I still don't know what 'brick' you guys are talking about? All I see is dark fp plank flooring.

I also tried every room, and changing to deck room, then back to master bedroom was the only way I could force a change. Strange

Very puzzling floor situation. HDA2015 does NOT have a default box to check (in the dbx structure tab) next to floor structure (L), so this means that Suite doesn't have it either (checking that box would fix the problem) The general tab is checked for use room type, and also for use default for room type. Yet, the 4" floor structure still won't change to the default 12 5/8", for master bedroom room type. Open a 3d framing view and vertically tile it next to the 2d plan view. You can see that there is no floor framing in the rooms with the incorrect floor structure. Open the master bedroom dbx and change the room type to deck. You can see the floor change in the 3d view. Re-open the room dbx and change the room type back to master bedroom. You should now see floor framing in the 3d view, and the structure tab should now show the floor structure (L) as 12 5/8". I have no idea why this was so stubborn to fix, or why a runaround was necessary to force it to work , but I tried everything else I could think of with no results. You will have to change each incorrect room individually. You will now need to make some adjustments in the garage level 0, too. Also, you have some fixing to do on the 2nd floor if you plan to use it.

That is 'Z' fighting. Go to the knowledge base articles and enter 'Z fighting' in the search bar. There are several articles about it.

Check device manager>display adapter to make sure that your nvidia card shows there (and is the card being used by windows10). Pressing windows+x is supposed to bring up a window allowing you to access device manager quickly.

Just for fun, here's another idea.

Elovia, I thought about that, but couldn't figure out how to manage it without compromising spaciousness (due to the headroom issues for the stairs and shower). The original bath also takes advantage of the sloped ceiling, to create a bigger space. Moving the kitchen (pic #1) under the bath, works....but the living space downstairs suffers, and becomes an uncomfortable pass-through between the front and back doors. Moving the bath instead, seems to work better (pic #2). Although the bath now sucks up the 90" ceiling area upstairs, it still seems to leave enough 90" ceiling area in the bedroom. If Perkins47 opts to not close off the stairwell, the bedroom would feel even bigger, especially if windows (overlooking the back yard) were added.

Here are some ideas for the tiny house. Raise the 2nd floor walls by 24" (as Eric suggested?), but raise the back wall an additional 66" (lower roof pitch on that wall). This solves headroom problems for the stairs and the shower, and makes the 2nd floor SO much more functional. Close off the 2nd floor? I can't really see the point for that in such a small footprint (especially if you want the 2nd floor to be readily usable at all times). But, if desired closed, I would put a pocket door at the 2nd landing, thereby leaving a more open feeling to the 1st floor room. The stairs have about an 8" rise, and a 9" tread . My own basement stairs have this rise/tread, and they are not uncomfortable to use. Tiny appliances and fixtures? You want a tiny HOUSE, otherwise just buy a camper and park it on the property. Use an apartment size range, fridge. I would use a full size double bowl sink in the kitchen area, and a minimal sink/vanity in the bathroom. Please keep the bathroom upstairs. Sounds,odors,and line-of-sight to the toilet in the livingroom/kitchen area (a tight space) would not be a very desirable experience! With this type of layout, I think you can kick back on the sofa to watch tv, without feeling claustrophobic.

Thanks for the jpg footprint, Kbird. This what I would think the roof would look like.

The house pic in post #22, has a room extended to the right of the porch roof, which the porch roof abuts to. That is why my pic (post #25) shows that room. That room creates a problem with the porch's shed roof.

The completed house does not look like the pic in post #22.

Here is a basic plan. Not knowing what your own settings are (dimensions, ceiling heights, roof pitches), you will most likely need to play with a lot of your settings to get it to work. The 'L' room on the right creates a problem for the porch roof. A workaround is shown. I hope this plan opens in HDA16 the same way it looks in HDA10. Sometimes they don't. At least it should give you a starting point, and some ideas. HDA2015 will not open a HDA 2016 file, so I couldn't see what your settings are. porch roof.plan

So sorry to hear about the heart attacks! Rest up and get better! You should stroll on over to the chieftalk website and see what they have to say about windows10!