Jo_Ann

Keith, So, the flooring fix ultimately came down to the 0mm floor finish? You can change SOME of the default stair materials under the edit>default setting > 'materials' (ballasters,railings, tread). Mick, I have the Pro 2015 (trial), which matches Keith's version. Remember, the Pro 2016 (trial) wouldn't even launch, for me. In Pro 2015, the landing is sitting slightly too high above the 1st staircase (not on the floor). In the Pro 2015 version, the room dbx 'materials' tab shows 'floor structure' material.....UNTIL a floor finish height is set in the structure tab. THEN it changes to 'floor finish' in the materials tab.

The bathtub I used, wasn't from the HD library, so that's what I thought you meant. You can still use the custom countertop to do exactly what you are showing.

Never could understand why you had 'footers' on a boat bottom! (but eliminating just the footers wasn't effective)

Try it and see if it works for you. You have nothing to lose. If it doesn't work for you, just close the plan without saving! Nothing ventured, nothing gained.

Keith. Do a doll house view of level1, and zoom in on the staircase as if you were starting up from the floor. Notice that the landing doesn't look quite right? Like Mick said, there is a bad connection, and specifically it is the landing. Zoom in on the landing (2d) and fix it. You can now open the offending staircase and alter it's materials, and they will change.

Keith, When you open the room dbx and select the materials tab, did you notice that the floor designation says floor structure? Back in the structure tab, the floor finish (k) is 0mm. Isn't it supposed to be 12mm? Change that and when you open the material tab, the floor designation has now changed to floor finish. Choose your plan material and all is good again. ALL the floor finish (k) on the plan has changed to 0mm. Haven't figured out the stair thingy yet, but something is screwy with the walls and ceiling on floor2. The stair room is supposed to be 'open below', but not showing that way in 3d.

I'm not getting those results (using the last plan file that you posted). Did you change some defaults? Exactly HOW did you go about changing the room floor finish?

I knew that, Mick!

THEN......I would designate that room as a 'slab' if you want the floor surface to be lower than the roof surface.. If you want the floor surface to be flush with the roof surface, I would make the floor finish (k) to be 6". On the 1st floor room, check 'ceiling over this room' and 'use soffit surface for ceiling'. I would then increase the ceiling finish (j) to 6". How does it look?

It IS smaller, isn't it? You didn't specify that. Go back to floor 1, open each of the 3 walls, and under the 'roof' tab, set the pitch to 0. That should fix it.

I have no idea what you did wrong, because I don't get that result. Is your 2nd floor railing 'room' smaller than the 1st floor room?

I think it is the way that you defined the pony wall, that is causing the problem. Open the pony wall, and open the drop down menu to select the default type shower wall for the upper, and also change the lower wall to a default interior wall(from the drop down) menu. I found that designating that room as a 'slab' closed up the floor height wall opening. You now have concrete as your ceiling in the area below the 'balcony'. Go back to the 1st floor and section off the room with a room divider wall. Open up that room and check 'ceiling over this room', and be sure to check 'default' for the ceiling finish.

Just draw your railing on the 2nd floor of that room, and that will eliminate the roof. Remember to designate the 2nd floor room as 'no roof over this room'.

Not showing off Mick! Just wanted to show Kenny that by adding an additional thin countertop to each step (the tread), the pattern on the thin countertop can be changed to be more normal looking, as it would be when applied on a step. Lots of things are possible to customize. No plan to show, because I didn't save it. It's just a custom shaped countertop!

Easy to customize, too.

This entire tub surround, and steps too, were made using the custom countertop tool (shaped and wrapped around the tub).

If you open every one of the wall sections on level 0, and uncheck 'foundation wall', the floor reappears. Like Kbird said, there is a rogue wall section south of the ship (on level 0). I also noticed that there is a gap between floors 0 & 1, at the front (south) side of the ship.

In the elevation view, it appears that the front wall (with the hinged glass door) is a gable wall. In the exterior image posted, it doesn't look like that wall has been designated as 'gable'?

Keith, You mentioned using the stem wall to get the brick finish above ground level, and maybe this is how you did it? The room is set as a 'garage' type room, and the stem walls are manipulated in the level 1 room dbx. Try it in a new sample plan and see if it triggers a distant memory. This method does not use the pony walls.

I'm not understanding Scott's question at all. #1: You need to state your software TITLE and it's VERSION (as DJP requested). #2: Do you want to copy/paste the whole house plan so that you will have TWO house plan versions to work on? OR... are you wanting to build a 2nd story onto the existing house plan??????

Are you referring to the ceiling slope at the outer wall? Pro has more tools and options than HDA, but with HDA (my program) I would initially set the ceiling height at maybe 8' ? Then...(when I was sure the roof planes would never have to be rebuilt) I would turn off 'auto build roof' and raise the ceiling (maybe to 9' or 10' ?).

YIKES! You've got a lotta fixin' to do!!

Extend your porch wall over the walk-out. Make the wall invisible. Open that room and designate it 'open below'. Make sure that 'roof and ceiling over this room' are checked. That should give you the continuous roof. My 2d floor pic is for level 1. The terrain is drawn on level1, and the terrain retaining walls are drawn on level 0. Look on the toobar under 'TERRAIN' for 'elevation data' > 'elevation lines' and 'elevation region' (it is the 'flat' region tool, that I think you are looking for). You should draw a terrain hole (toolbar>terrain>terrain features>terrain hole) on level 1 over the walk-out area. The south basement wall (level 0, walk-out area) should be made invisible. Terrains are finicky. Keep adjusting until you get the right results.

This most likely means that the skp file that you downloaded, was done in a newer version of sketchup (that HD won't open). So, you have to download and install the free version of the sketch-up program. Then, open the symbol in sketch-up, and do a 'save as' sketch-up 8 for the symbol (in the drop-down menu). If the symbol still won't open for you, do a 'save as' sketch-up 7. Installing the sketch-up program isn't a total waste, because you will need to use it frequently to do a 'save as' for most symbols.

Garage 1 or garage 2?