Jo_Ann

If you are very careful about wall placement, you will still have room for a pickup truck on that side garage of the garage, and also a boot-bench inside the entry.

I'm sure you are probably cringing at the thought of losing space in the guest bedroom, but.... this compromise doesn't lose much, and it is a better scenario.

I have to say it.... Your bathroom door opens into the kitchen/dining area. YIKES.

Good solution Eric! It will be necessary for him to delete the auto dormer and manually build the dormer.

Porch roof baseline set at 119.5". Porch roof ridge height set at 154.5". You will have to move the dormer back about 2.5' and change the windows to 36" height, 36" from the floor.

If you lower the baseline of the porch roof, you can get a 3" pitch.

If you are manually doing the porch roof, the highest pitch I could get was 1.5", because of the dormer position. The pergola certainly eliminates snow load worries!

You are right about the dormer position affecting the pitch of the porch roof. To get this porch roof effect, the south wall of the porch needs to have an upper/lower pitch setting on the roof tab (auto roof build). You will most likely need to alter the porch ceiling height, as well. Or, you could skip the solid roof and do a pergola.

Knowledge base article https://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/article/KB-00063/placing-multiple-appliances-in-a-single-cabinet-in-home-designer-pro.html

As Eric said, YOU control the size of the custom countertop. First, remove the side countertop overhang on the cabinet. Draw a custom countertop. Select it and zoom in to see the width, then select the width numbers, and change them to your desired size. Then move the countertop tight to the cabinet, and block it. You can select either the cabinet or the custom countertop at any time (without unblocking it) by hitting the 'tab' key. You only need to add the custom countertop to the side of the cabinet, NOT the entire cabinet.

For the interior wall/ceiling curl, a well placed 'rustic' corbel, sized correctly and then stretched, will simulate the 'curl'. I would only use it where it needs to be visible in the interior 3d view.

I see that you have removed the countertop from the corner cabinet. You need to reduce the height of that cabinet to compensate for the removed countertop, THEN add the custom countertop.

If you reduce the first 2 steps to 1 step, the rest of the stairs will adjust, and the riser height is still good. The new landing height will accommodate a tall person without bumping their head. Also...you can eliminate those pesky yellow triangle warnings if you open the angled wall dbx, and delete the fractional amount on the wall angle.

You seem to be asking 2 questions: #1. SHOW the reference grid on the desktop. Look on the top toolbar under 'VIEW'. "Show Reference Grid' will most likely be there. Turn it on. #2. PRINT the desktop image showing the reference grid. If you have windows 'snippet' tool, use THAT to frame the part of the view that you want to see. It crops and saves the image in one step.

Ditto what Eric said, but a little more detailed.

DJP. LOL!

If your version of the software doesn't have the options tab, place 2 identical doors, side by side. Hold down Ctrl, and drag them together until a center post is no longer visible.

You might also want to reconsider your stairs. A u-type stair is less invasive to the upstairs planned room, and it is a safer type of stairs.

The overhang is interfering with the roof build. Make these changes, then rebuild the roof.

I think that your combo pic of the project and the real house is tell-tale revealing. Look at the eave height of the garage compared to the eave height of the adjacent house roof.

I think that all the Home Designer products allow this, and there is more than one way to do it. Try searching the knowledge base, or your reference manual for info on this.

Answer to #1 & #2: NO You must build and place them manually if you want to see them. This was shown in your last posted question.

Set the 'Build Roof' dialog to your default pitch ( 12"). It is currently set to 8". Open the 2nd floor back wall and set that pitch to 5.5" or 6". You still have not posted an image of the real house, to show what the front dormer is supposed to look like.

I think you are going about this in the wrong drawing order. Yes, you have to manually draw the winders and landing. It is what it is. Set their dimensions and height correctly, and connect them to each other. Draw the 1st straight stair section separate from the winders. Open the dialog and lock in the # of treads. Now carefully move it into position to automatically connect with the 1st winder. If you have set the height of the winders and landing correctly, the straight stair risers should reflect this. Draw in the upper stair section from the top landing to the 2nd floor. You can now drag the straight stair sections to elongate or shorten them, if you want the tread depth to increase or decrease.