Jo_Ann

??? You haven't said what the problem is. Post an image of what is happening.

briancaos, On floor 1, the south wall of the livingroom is marked "high shed gable". The north wall of the master bath is also marked "high shed gable". Remove that setting from the bath wall.

swarren, briancaos has Architectural, not Pro. Adjusting roof planes is not an option for him.

Before making any changes to the roof, I placed a soffit at the top of the west ridge of the original cabin, for a visual purpose. I then changed the west and east walls of the addition to a 19/12 pitch. As you can see, the soffit and the original roof are still at the same pitch/height as they were, before changing the pitch of the addition.

Raise the roof pitch on the east and west walls of the addition, to about 19.

Re-open your original topic that was posted in Q&A, and resume your questions. What I'm trying to say, is that this is a complicated design, and your OWN exact measurements will get your desired results, ONLY. My plan would be of NO benefit to you at all, because all of my settings are just guesses. My plan was all done using auto build roof, and that means lots of settings are used that are different, as opposed to HD Pro. By using only the trial version, you are unable to post your plan, and that pretty much destroys getting any constructive help.

You need to move this topic back over to Q&A, where it belongs. I don't think that anyone can offer much constructive help, without knowing what the real dimensions (floor heights, ceiling heights, and roof pitch) really are.

https://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/article/KB-00210/using-open-below-rooms-to-define-an-opening-to-a-lower-floor.html

Did something happen to the real Robyn?

I suspect it is the window on the left that you want to drag to the right? I think that you added the wall break because you want that section of wall to be a different material (stone)? Toolbar edit: default settings / plan (edit) / check the box "ignore casing for opening resize" Disconnect the intersecting walls (as Eric suggested) and drag the window. Reconnect the walls.

Some quick fixes for your plan: Delete 2nd floor walls for the garage, (as Eric suggested) and reset the the garage roof directives on the 1st floor walls of the garage. On the 2nd floor: East side wall, entire wall needs to be 'full gable'. Change the south yellow walls to exterior walls. Open 'room below' dbx and set the 'finished ceiling' to 119 1/8, and check the box 'ceiling over this room'. Raise office 'finished ceiling' to 122 1/4. You can reset this ceiling back to the default value after you turn off 'auto rebuild roof'. Open the dbx for the terrain perimeter and put a check in the box for 'hide terrain intersected by building'.

You have Pro, so use 2 ceiling planes.

https://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/article/KB-02972/migrating-home-designer-to-a-new-computer.html

Post #5 & #7 are confusing. It would be easier to understand (I think) if you referred to your walls as north/south, east/west. Anyway, is this what you want? You don't need to draw any new walls (except maybe an attic wall). The walls are already there. You need to pull back the west side of the large north roof plane, and the walls pop up. After that, you only need to draw a new roof plane for the "dormer", (set at the right pitch and height, of course).

https://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/database.html

If I understand correctly what you want the roof to look like (roof eave set at the ceiling level of floor 1?), then open the roof plane and lock the fascia at about 130". The way the roof is set up now, places the dormer WAY above your floor 2 level. Put in a auto dormer, as this type will set the window at the right height, or at least close.

As previously suggested, place a half-wall at that side of the stairs. When the wall is carefully placed, it will automatically 'follow the stairs'. Place wall breaks where you want the raised walls, open up the 'new' wall sections, and raise the rail height to the ceiling.

??? Why on earth would you use 3 pieces when only 2 pieces (horizontal & vertical) are needed??? Sounds like you need to do some studying.

Although it appears that you changed the default roof pitch to 10", the two main roof planes are still set at 8". Raise those to at least 10" and you will start to see more of the ceiling.

You need to start over. First read the user guide, and look at the knowledge base articles. Too many mistakes! You played with the wall definition, didn't you? Never do that unless you know what you are doing. Some walls do not connect-- some walls are not aligned over exterior wall-- varying ceiling heights-- roof settings on some walls are wrong-- roof settings in 'build roof' are wrong-- balcony 'room' is done incorrectly.

Mostly soffits, plus pyramid shape, vertical cylinder, and round mirror frame.

You have 'ignore 2nd floor' checked on the roof tab, so there is no 2nd floor to see.

You have just found one of the options limitations with Suite. When your building exterior is complete, grab the paint can (while in 3d mode), choose your siding color, choose the paint can mode (plan mode), and paint the siding. https://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/article/KB-00851/using-the-material-painter-modes.html

Bite the bullet and delete the 2nd floor. Open EVERY room on floor 1 (except the garage) and check the default ceiling height box. NOW build the 2nd floor and set ceiling to 0" / no ceiling over this room. Set the 2nd floor end walls as 'gable', and 'full roof return'. You can now use the auto dormer tool to build a dormer. When this dormer is set correctly (ceiling height, roof pitch, window), copy/paste for the other dormers. If the roof is correct, turn OFF auto build roof. You can now build the interior walls, railing, and open below room, and raise your ceilings. Don't ever accidentally rebuild the roof. P.S. You might find it difficult to get into that bath tub that is in the bathroom between the 2 bedrooms!