Jo_Ann

You are saying that you plan to tear off the roof and raise the ceilings to 107 5/8", and use a new roof pitch of 8/12? Your plan is using a pitch of 6/12. Does the garage floor sit lower than the rooms directly next to it? (withing the garage rectangle). I'm trying to explain to you that these settings are important, in order to get rid of that gable.

Looks good !

Looking at the posted pictures, it is obvious that the roof is a much shallower pitch than the plan that you posted. Also, what is the real overhang depth? Obviously, the ceiling heights in your posted plan are much higher than the real ceiling height. Ceiling height (both the house and garage), roof pitch, and overhang depth, are important in configuring the roof. The eave height of the roof depends on correct ceiling heights. You need to fix these things in the plan, then re-post the plan.

Soffits are found on toolbar>cabinets. You can also use boxes, but you would still need to use a soffit as the base, because the soffit will take on the base molding.

I think the easiest no-hassle way: Individual soffits, then block them together. If you want the arch, you could use a kitchen valance (bonus catalog, kitchen accessories).

You might get answers if you also posted pics of the real house, showing the front and back roofs.

I was hoping that was what you were wanting to do. Once you get the basic regions set up, you can then modify them to suit your own particular terrain. I have found that it is easiest to use terrain regions, and let the program do the gradual sloping between the different region elevations. Using elevation lines can get really complicated and confusing. Likewise, elevation points (even MORE so).

Not really sure how to visualize what the roof is supposed to look like with just a floor plan image. You need to post 3d images of the house.

Please post jpeg images, NOT PDF's.

Whatever you misplaced in outer Mongolia, I couldn't find. Your 2d plan is also not centered on the xy center of the screen. To save yourself from ripping out hair, try this: Open a new plan and tile vertically beside original plan. Choose (tool bar) EDIT/ edit area, and marquee around the entire existing plan, and (tool bar) COPY. Reselect the NEW plan, (tool bar) PASTE, then center your curser between the side slider and lower slider bar (aka center of the screen), and Paste. All should be better now. Do a 'save as' (choose same name as old plan) and new plan is saved, and old plan is deleted. DONE.

????? Open the stair dialog box and set the numbers as shown.

However, you will find that if you compromise just a little bit, you can come really close to what you want.

Like Solver said, you need to read up on the difference between the pattern dialog and the texture dialog.

I think that you will need to be a LOT more descriptive, and will most likely need to post the plan file.

Yes.

You should be changing the terrain, not the floor elevation.

You are not offering a 'Tip or Technique', you are asking a 'question' for help, and it does not belong in this topic category.

This is what you need to set for a regular 3d view (the setting shown is close to a match for the 'pattern' setting that you have). But why is the bottom of the tub 18" above the floor? And why are there 3 different slabs over the tub?

I was able to reproduce one of your posted pics by toggling OFF textures, as Solver suggested you might have done.

On the toolbar, EDIT, down to the bottom, PREFERENCES. In the dialog box that opens, left side, down at the bottom, click on 'video card status'. Take a snip of the box that opens, and post it here.

It IS the SAME tile, only better.

Try adding this jpeg. It tiles better.