Jo_Ann

If you don't want to see the diagonal dashed lines on the cabinets, turn off "opening indicators" in the display options. P.S. Please turn OFF your caps in your post text. It is considered to be "shouting".

https://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/article/KB-00927/dimensioning-cabinets-in-a-wall-elevation.html

All that I see is a gable roof (main front wall) with a full roof return extended out over the bay window. Posting the plan will most always get you a better answer.

https://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/article/KB-00752/creating-a-structure-that-is-built-on-piers.html

The glass wall is snapping over the end of the solid wall. One way to resolve this is to extend the solid wall out at least 6" (otherwise it will snap back) beyond the glass wall. In the real world, this wall probably should be extended that way. The other way, is to prevent the glass wall from snapping over the solid wall, by using 2 room divider walls, as shown. Back off the glass wall 1st, then zoom in and make the divider walls really tiny. Then drag the glass wall back so that it snaps to the divider wall. This set-up will maintain the shower as a separate "room".

This is why so many times it is important for someone to upload their plan to get help with a problem. Uploading your sample plan revealed what the problem was. You didn't follow the instructions I gave in my 1st post: " Use a railing wall, set to use 'panels', using a tempered glass material." I would still create a curb (for the glass to rest on top of) extending to the door, then leave the door "barrier-free".

Open your plan and then "save as" and give this "new" plan a different name, like maybe "stripped". Delete all the furniture and landscaping and most likely the "new" plan will be less that 25mb. CLOSE the plan, then upload this "new" plan file.

As you can see in the pic, the wall can reach the ceiling, and there is NO crown molding. The wall also rests on the floor, and there is NO base molding. No "work around" necessary. So I have NO clue, what you are doing. If you post your plan, maybe it will help.

You don't really need to add wall breaks on the wall. Just open the shower 'room' and delete the molding that you don't want. The railing wall ( glass, which forms the shower 'room') will not display the crown molding. The custom backsplash tool is great for adding the wall tile and decorative tile strip. Have you tried it?

OR... Use a wall break to separate the shower 'room' from the bath, then remove the moldings from the shower room. Use a railing wall, set to use 'panels', using a tempered glass material. You can set the preferred height for the glass wall, by setting the railing height. You will need to add a 'curb', but don't use a soffit, because it will take on the base molding. Use a closed box shape instead. https://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/article/KB-00886/creating-a-custom-glass-shower.html

HD Architectural 2018 shows this export as an option.

You are not offering a "Tip or Technique", you are asking for help with your project. This question belongs in the "Q&A" forum category. Arched soffit: Extra thick wall with an arched doorway. Ceiling soffit for a light: Divider wall "room" with added ceiling height.

Most likely it is not a program glitch. More likely it is an operator glitch. You need to be more specific about what you are trying to achieve, and then really specific about how you went about changing the material.

I did a more simple version of the large dormer, (created with Architectural 2018) this time with the default ceiling height of 95 5/8", and it looks like pic 1 (with auto roof turned on). When opened with Pro 2018 (trial) it still looks the same as pic 1 (auto-roof still turned on). When opened with Pro 2019 (auto-roof on) it looks like pic 2. WHY?? I know that it is easy to fix the roof planes with Pro's manual roof. Then open the smaller dormers dbx, click 'OK' and they magically reappear, too. But none of this should be necessary. I tried multiple settings to get this roof to auto build, without success. Why is Pro 2019 not reading directives from a plan created in a 2018 version correctly? Eric, DJP, anyone have an answer? I'm stumped. BalsamKnoll large dormer.plan

I got this far, with this model created in Architectural 2018 (traced over your model opened with Pro 2019 trial). This was the only way to save a plan that I could upload. The dimensions are very close, so maybe this plan will help you. I was unable to raise the large dormer ceiling height to 95 5/8" without making the roof go wacky, but at least the dormer windows are able to be set at the standard floor to ceiling height of 80". Porch Note: The south wall of the screened porch is set at 7°, while the north wall had to remain set at 11° to make the gable look correct in my version (HDA2018). Strange. When opened in the trial Pro 2019, the gable looks wacky and the north porch wall needs to agree with the south porch wall (7°)? Pro 2019 does not seem to follow directives made in plans created in earlier software versions. I don't know if HDA2019 will also display that way. If you plan to use this software for your business, then you should upgrade to Pro. The extra expense and the time taken to learn how to use it, will be compensated by the time NOT spent in frustration. A hefty upgrade rebate will compensate for the dollars that you spent on Architectural, if taken before the rebate expires. BalsamKnoll traced plan.plan

Why didn't you say in the beginning that it was the bump out that you didn't want? Easy to fix with Pro. First remove the roof returns, then turn OFF "auto build roof". Move the 1st floor wall back in line with the rest of the wall. Move the 2nd floor wall back also, and right click to select "align with wall below" (if that option shows up). Now grab the right and left roof overhang (dashed green lines) and drag them out to align with gambrel overhang, OR grab the gambrel overhangs and drag them back to align with the far left/right overhangs (your choice). The area circled then needs attention. Where the gambrel roof meets the gutter eave, each roof edge needs to have a polyline break added so that you can bend and manipulate the 2 edges to over-lap as shown. It just takes a little bit of fiddling.

How to do an INSIDE stair wrap has bugged me for a long time. A reference guide article addresses an OUTSIDE stair wrap, but there is nothing about an INSIDE stair wrap. There is nothing in the knowledge base or video tutorials about stair wraps. I finally figured it out, and the way inside stair wraps need to touch each other is different from outside stair wraps. I hope the image with the stairs set as 2 different colors, clarifies better how to put them together.

There is a sneaky way, to set up a default wall with the siding of your choice. Draw an exterior wall, open it, and change the siding material via the material tab. Change the thickness of the wall, and close the dbx. Reopen the wall, and look in the drop-down wall type selection. You should see a new additional wall name in there (6_2 or 6_7 or something like that). At this time, if you want to change the wall back to the original thickness, you can do so. When you re-open the wall again, there will be another new wall listed in the drop-down (with the original thickness). You can then open the default settings and choose the wall (that has the siding that you selected), and set it as the default exterior wall. The new wall in the drop-down wall types will only exist in this particular plan. If you have already drawn your walls in the plan and altered the siding on each wall, the default wall setting will most likely not prevail. By the way, Architectural offers many many more benefits compared to Suite. If you have used the software repeatedly (as you say) then you should check out the upgrade rebate. Download the free trial and see for yourself.

DenTheMen: You are not offering a Tip or Technique, which is what this category forum is meant for. You are asking a question (for help), and help questions belong in the Q & A category forum. Please post questions over there.

You need to fix the circular wall, and then (like solver said) you need to build the 2nd floor. That may present some new problems.

Compare the 2 floor plan images you posted. You changed the circular wall. You would have to ask the technical people on a support ticket for that answer. It is what it is.

Knowing that the extremely angled walls caused a roof error code on the small building, do you not see what you changed on this house plan revision?

I thought that moving the small building away from the house would resolve the issue, but evidently the roof on the small building IS the problem. Reduce the depth of the overhang on all the walls of that building, and the error goes away. The house roof rebuilt with no issues, so you must have done something else.

ICONDEV, There is so MUCH that you can do to improve your 3d viewing. Examples: The deck fireplace. The board & batten barn siding. The interior fireplace...instead of saying corner fireplace/no hearth/beam mantle, make your own fireplace from scratch. Start experimenting!