Jo_Ann

Try pulling the railing slightly away from the house wall.

Set both end walls on floor 1 & 2 as 'full gable'. Basic roof pitch should be at least 11" or 12". Then set up floor 2.

Enclose the bump-out with walls to make it a 'room'. Open the bump-out 'room' dialog and raise the ceiling. It appears that you have extended the entire wall on that side of the house, instead of only the bump-out.

Despite using all the options allowed for the ready-made bow window, you will not get the results shown in your picture. You need to start from scratch and build the unit yourself.

Terrains can be very tricky and frustrating, and there isn't a lot of helpful info about them, but maybe these suggestions will help: 2D Display, turn OFF > Dimensions-Automatic; Plants; Secondary Contours. 3D Display, turn OFF> Plants. Now that you can SEE what you're doing, hold down Ctrl key and select every terrain flat elevation region. Open the dialog box and choose a solid fill color (make it highly transparent). This makes elevation types easier to see. Zoom in and start moving things while observing the 3D response in a tiled window. To avoid seeing the foundation footing, open the wall and remove the footing. If you had done a forum search about terrains, you would see that it is usually recommended to never use elevation points (you have used some elevation points). What's with those stairs on the terrain? Their position makes no sense.

Have you downloaded the WindsorONE Moldings catalog from the bonus catalogs? There is a header buildup in the Classical Craftsman Style that might be of interest to you. It would eliminate having to block and then resize every piece of your 'block' for different size windows and doors, if you used this molding instead.

TIP: You don't need to explode the block. While in either 2d or 3d view (3d is easier), select the block and then hit your 'tab' key. It will select each piece of the 'block' and allow you to open and edit, while the pieces still remain 'blocked'.

Ah-Ha! Who would have thought? That is much simpler than the copy/paste method. Considering that all windows usually install with a default material already applied, who would have guessed that applying a material to the non-existent molding would cause it to miraculously appear?! I've also noticed that these windows seem to have a lot of 'Z fighting' going on.

Presuming you chose the 'default' template when beginning your plan: Go to the Library (Core Catalog) > Windows > Window Units > Rectangular > Arts and Crafts window. When you place this window, the window on the right is what you get?!! Leave the original plan open, and start a new plan, choosing either 'Arts & Crafts' or 'Colonial' template. Tile the new plan next to the original plan, and draw a wall. Once again choose the library 'Arts & Crafts' window, and you should get the window shown on the left. Copy, then paste this window into the original plan. Why anyone should have to go to this extreme to get the Arts & Crafts window offered in the library, is not something that makes sense to me.

This is confusing. This plan is not the 7 Cedars plan you previously were working on? #1. I do not see 'board & batten' siding on the upper walls. I see 'shingle' siding. That said, if the exterior material listed for that wall is 'drywall', then that is what you are going to see. Ditto for the other upper walls. #2. You have NOT drawn a porch on the plan submitted, so detailed advise can not be given. However, the front porch wall needs to be an upper/lower roof pitch setting (if you use 'auto-roof'). #3. If pic #3 shown is want you are trying to explain, then it only requires some simple manual manipulation of the roof planes in that area.

You need to stop fixating on the landscape for now, and focus on the house. Too many landscape attributes will bog down your video card. By the way, the terrain building pad ( you set it at 0mm) should NOT be the same as structure floor (c) 0mm in the house (change the building pad, NOT the house floor). Carefully read the first line in the terrain building pad dbx. You need to add an elevation line (-3000mm) at the terrain retaining wall at the street. Practice drawing stairs. Study them in your reference manual, and also the knowledge base.

Draw and shape a 'Terrain Hole' to expose the stairs.

As David said, less is sometimes better. I see a lot of terrain stuff that should be deleted. Also, you say the garage region should be -3.2m, but it is set at -3.6m in your plan. Is the separate garage structure really embedded into the slope? You don't have any reference for where to send the stair unit ( a front door, or porch).

Try opening the room dialog box and then clicking 'OK'. See if that 'heals' the floor.

Just guessing.

You are saying that you plan to tear off the roof and raise the ceilings to 107 5/8", and use a new roof pitch of 8/12? Your plan is using a pitch of 6/12. Does the garage floor sit lower than the rooms directly next to it? (withing the garage rectangle). I'm trying to explain to you that these settings are important, in order to get rid of that gable.

Looks good !

Looking at the posted pictures, it is obvious that the roof is a much shallower pitch than the plan that you posted. Also, what is the real overhang depth? Obviously, the ceiling heights in your posted plan are much higher than the real ceiling height. Ceiling height (both the house and garage), roof pitch, and overhang depth, are important in configuring the roof. The eave height of the roof depends on correct ceiling heights. You need to fix these things in the plan, then re-post the plan.

Soffits are found on toolbar>cabinets. You can also use boxes, but you would still need to use a soffit as the base, because the soffit will take on the base molding.

I think the easiest no-hassle way: Individual soffits, then block them together. If you want the arch, you could use a kitchen valance (bonus catalog, kitchen accessories).

You might get answers if you also posted pics of the real house, showing the front and back roofs.

I was hoping that was what you were wanting to do. Once you get the basic regions set up, you can then modify them to suit your own particular terrain. I have found that it is easiest to use terrain regions, and let the program do the gradual sloping between the different region elevations. Using elevation lines can get really complicated and confusing. Likewise, elevation points (even MORE so).