Jo_Ann

The back wall does not need to be set as a knee wall. Ceiling height will determine where the roof eave rests on that wall. The height of the high shed wall (10'?) is determined by the roof pitch set on the back wall. Uncheck 'ceiling over this room' to eliminate the low ceiling plane that is showing. Place a thin 10' tall soffit up against the interior high shed wall (make the side wall invisible so that you can see the roof pitch in relation to the 10' soffit. Start raising or lowering the roof pitch on the back wall until you see the ceiling touching the top of the soffit. If you have set the room ceiling height to 3', then the roof pitch on this size building will need to be 4 7/16". If you have set the ceiling height to 2', then the roof pitch will need to be 5 1/16" . Should you decide you want a flat ceiling that is lower than 10', now is the time to turn off auto build roof. Then, reset the room ceiling height and recheck the 'ceiling over this room' box.

Why would you model this cabinet door in Sketchup, when you can do it within your program?

'Custom' cabinet is an understatement. Put together all 4 cabinet pieces on the left, and you will get the cabinet on the right (with no center stile sticking up through the sink).

Back in April, someone posted with the same problem (yellow pixelated mirror reflections). The problem was fixed with an updated video card driver. Although you say your card is up to date, check again for updates. OR, maybe the installed driver is causing problems, and you should try rolling it back to the previous driver.

When you select 'no ceiling over this room', the underside of the roof becomes the ceiling. BUT...the software still sees the space between the roof plane and the set ceiling height of the room, to be 'attic' space, so it builds 'attic' walls. You NEED to let the attic walls build. I used the soffit method. Set the walls on one side of the building as invisible, so that you can see the relation between the soffits and the roof plane, as you change the settings on the plane. P.S. In your default settings, for some reason you have set the soffit default to 'sloped'?

Unclear about the size of the windows.

Maybe a dutch roof would help to eliminate the up-arrow effect of the gables.

Something like this?

It seems that you dragged your walls up to the height and shape that you wanted. This is usually a no-no. There also are currently useless attic walls on the attic level (did you draw them?). Delete them. All the rooms need to be set to the default ceiling height of the bedrooms (rough ceiling 96"), and then allow the attic walls to rebuild. To fix the framing (up on the tool bar)> Build framing> 2nd> wall> auto-build wall framing. Since you used a manual roof plane, open it's dbx. Set the baseline height to 239" and then re-lock it. Set the ridge top height to 315" Set the pitch to 1.75" This should at least get the roof heights really close to what you are trying to get.

Not sure why you re-posted the exact same plan (with no changes) that you originally posted? BUT.. you need to check your lowest roof height in the bedrooms (if you are using the soffit for height method, you will see). You have also made some mistakes when drawing your walls, that need to be fixed.

Did you build a roof over the garage? Are you using a railing or a fence panel?

The simple way? Try this... place a 14' soffit, then adjust the roof pitch until 14' is reached on that wall.

I would get rid of the terrain walls. Instead, (on level 0) draw 3 solid half-walls, forming a "room" extending off the foundation wall. Open each half-wall and set it's thickness to match the foundation walls. Choose your railing height and then set your wall material. Open the room dbx and set it's room type as a slab (make sure roof / ceiling over this room is not selected). I would also set it's floor C to be about 4" lower than the door in the foundation wall. Add a doorway where the steps will be. Back on level 1, (assuming that is where your terrain perimeter is), draw a terrain hole over the "room" (terrain>feature>terrain hole). Back on level 0: draw a stair landing, and drag it into the doorway (make it look like a slab). You need this landing so that the stairs will snap to it. Add the stairs.

Start with a tall kitchen cabinet. You will need to eliminate the doors and shelves. You will also have to delete the crown molding and the top separation from the cabinet. If you don't want the toe kick, delete that too. Make the empty cabinet the length you want, and then place the long end of the cab slightly extended into the wall. Copy/paste the cab. Rotate the new cab and extend it's end, fully over-lapping the other cab, and with it's long end also slightly extended into the wall. Re-add the crown molding to a soffit sized correctly, OR use a custom countertop with molding added (and then size and shape the countertop to the shape of the tall cabinet). You can block the molding pieces to the cabinet. The only thing left to do, is to add a closet shelf (with pole and hangers). You can block that to the cabinet, too. It might sound like a lot of steps to do, but it really is quick and easy.

All you needed to do was to open the room dbx, and specify "roof over this room".

Is there some reason you're not using the the polygon shaped deck tool, listed under the build>railing and deck> polygon shaped deck?

No.

They are attic walls, and they usually generate automatically.

Here is another example. Once you get familiar with the manual planes and how they intersect / react with the walls, it will get easier to modify your roof. I DO hope that you post a jpg of the finished roof, when you're done.

This is done using manual roof planes. Start practicing. Was the center section intended to be raised or lowered from the sides? Not enough information.

Does this look like what you are trying to do?

It would be beneficial for you to post the plan file.

A "landing" is not a "room", and you can not set it as "open below". Only "rooms" can be set as "open below".

Questions: 1. Is the ceiling height in the main house 9' ? (that is how it is set in your plan) 2. Do both baths in the addition have flat 8' ceilings? 3. What is the roof pitch for the main house (unlikely to be 2.5"/12, more like 6/12)?