Jo_Ann

Check the knowledge base or your reference manual.

You need to read up on how to manually create a dormer.

This usually only applies to a cabinet base that is all drawers. You must open the "front" tab of the dbx, and set the drawer as a "blank area". Next: Go to the library (Cabinet doors, drawers, & Panels) and choose the correct style drawer front, and place it as a "fixture" in front of the cabinet. Set it to the correct size, and carefully maneuver it to the correct position on the cabinet front. Next: Repeat the process all over again to select and place the cabinet hardware handle on the drawer.

Zip file.

Check to see if you turned off "color", under the VIEW category on the tool bar.

If you need help to build a deck around a hot tub, then you should start a new post of your own, and show an example ( jpg ) of what you want to do.

OR...Save yourself from the pony wall hassle. Use a solid half wall for the entire wall, and then place a wall break where you want the entire wall to be glass. Open this part of the wall and set it to be solid panels, with it's material set as glass. Adjust the newel height (80"?) and add the door. Add a thin soffit (set to the correct height; glass material) set on top of the part of the wall that is solid. In the pic, different glass types are used to show the 2 wall sections.

Also, you will never be able to put 2 windows in the front, using that box window tool. You need to manually build the box walls.

Use the wall break tool, to make only the front 10-12" of the railing side wall to be a hip wall.

Organize your wall layers correctly, so that the exterior walls will display correctly.

The sloped soffit works. You're just not doing something right. You also have a big problem with the new walls you defined.

I didn't realize the pics you posted were the problem railings, so I set out on a mission to recreate the rail in the 1st pic. I think it's pretty close. The objects used are color coded. I drew a rail. Unchecked upper rail and lower rail; set newels to 0" width; set balusters to .75". Upper and lower rails are replaced with soffits. Top horizontal rail is a soffit; arched top is a cylinder shape. Post is a box shape. Bottom post trim is 2 soffits; top of post is a millwork cap. The decorative trim on the post (where the rails join onto) is a profiled cabinet drawer from the library.

I guess it goes without saying, if you need to customize something, then you need to show a jpeg of what you are trying to do. Someone might then be able to help.

The only way to fix that (with Architectural) is to cover it with a sloped soffit. I recommend adding the soffit on the attic level, then lowering it to where it needs to be. Putting it on the attic level prevents it from blocking your doll house view of that area.

If you are using the program for a business, and you wish to use one of the Home Designer products, then you should purchase Home Designer Pro. There are lots of auto-build possibilities for railings, but some designs might need to be created from scratch (piece by piece). You need to download the trial version of Pro, to see for yourself what it offers, and if you like it. Should you decide you would like to upgrade (after purchasing Pro) to Chief Premier, Chief Architect offers a substantial discount.

Delete the foundation, then rebuild it. The floor 1 structure should then be correct.

I think that you will have to create it from scratch.

Using auto-build roof: Settings shown for roof #1. Settings for roof #2: The only settings to change are for the west wall and east wall of the off-set room. Change the roof pitch to at least 8.5" for those walls.

The north wall in the room above the garage, is set as "no room definition" "no locate". Why is there no terrain perimeter?

You DO have some problems at the front of the center room. Make sure the front center room gable wall extends to the invisible vertical walls, left and right. Check your wall roof settings...some of them are marked "upper pitch". You have a problem with the front right veranda room overlapping the center room roof. It looks as if the overhangs are too big, and also the left wall of the veranda needs to move away from the center room. Make sure the house exterior wall still extends to the invisible wall (if you move the veranda wall, the house house wall might move with it). Get the dashed roof lines to line up the way they do in the pdf.

If you just follow the roof settings shown in the pdf, the roof will auto-build correctly.

You have never experimented with the label tab on the cabinet???

Search in the forum and also the knowledge base for "Z" fighting.

Try these settings, exactly, and see if it works for you. The cad lines are used, so that the wall breaks can be exact.

Is this what you want?