Jo_Ann

Your ceiling heights do not appear to be, what you say they are.

Maybe this will help. Walls marked in red are HIP walls.

No.

The roof shown here, is all done using "auto build roof". So much easier than trying to manually build all the roof planes. The living room vaulted ceiling is done using 2 ceiling planes, set to 15' at their peak. I did only partial ceiling planes, so you can see their pitch difference from the 8/12" default roof pitch, exposed above the ceiling planes. The 8/12" roof pitch does not interfere with the vaulted ceiling height.

There are 3 factors here that will determine that roof build. Ceiling height in the bump-out. Roof pitch on the bump-out. And also the overhang size on the main house wall.

That bump-out looks to be much shorter than 8'.

Reference Manual: With the software open...Top of the toolbar, under "Help", "View Reference Manual". The Reference Manual PDF will load, and you can choose to download it from the "download" option on the top right side of the PDF.

For some unknown reason, the railing wall you have used, will not accept the backsplash. Build the wall the same way the existing wall with the backsplash is built, then copy/paste the backsplash. P.S. I would block the backsplash X before copy/ paste.

Just my 2 cents... Putting a full wall by the front entry helps to better distinguish it as an Entry. The added small hallway by the bath & bedroom is self explaining (and much needed). The half wall at the stairs, makes them more inviting. You have "auto build roof" turned off, so why haven't you fixed the 2nd floor?

This method might be easier: Do your rail with the posts extending to a beam. On the attic level, make the walls invisible. Add a soffit to the attic level, sized like a post. Move this into the invisible wall. Copy/ sticky paste this post as many times as needed. Do an elevation view, and move the posts into position over the existing railing posts. Change the height on each post to extend it into the roof, and into the post below it. Make the long side attic wall visible again. Add a window (like Eric did), but extend it the entire length of the wall. Set it's shape to "follow the roof". I found it necessary to change the glass material to misc>no material (library). Lastly, place another soffit over the front wall (just below the roof), and size it to match the window top casing (creates the top beam). Done.

The deck roof is not the problem. The whole plan is messed up. The room next to the 1st floor bath has no room definition. Why are the dormers placed on the 1st floor?!!! You need to view some of the tutorial videos about using the software, do the fixes, then come back for help if it is still needed.

Architectural blocks can not be resized as a whole, but individual components can be modified without exploding the "block". Place your curser over the piece you want to modify, then hit the keyboard tab until you see that individual piece highlight, then make your changes.

Both Eric's and Doug's methods work, but this method might be easier to manipulate. Draw default deck rail walls. Open each rail and reduce thickness to 1", and set as "invisible". This forms the 'Room". Add your post (I would resize it to 12" wide X 12" deep). Draw a new default deck rail outside of the porch. Open the rail and put a check in the box "no room definition". On the rail style tab, select "panels". Uncheck the boxes for "top rail" and "bottom rail". On the newel/balusters tab, reduce the width of the newel to 0" (if you want to eliminate them). Select the turned panels from the library. You can now ctrl/drag the new rail over the existing default rail. Proceed to drag the end of the turned rail to it's finished position.

Without being able to see what you are doing, and HOW you are trying to do it, I can not help.

Maybe you should post the plan file.

Maybe you should use the snippit tool to post some jpg images of what you are trying to do.

The Farmhouse website video, showing the 3d views of the front of the house (gable with 2 windows over the front door) and the interior view of the living room in that area (video), do NOT match EITHER.

1. Edit / Default Settings / Plan / Check the box 'Ignore Casing for Opening Resize'. Allows you to drag the door / pass-thru further into other walls. 2. Check 'no room definition' for railing, then control / drag it into place.

All done with the same tools that Suite has. Remember, room ceiling heights affect the placement level of the roof. The ceiling heights are temporary. When the roof is correct, you turn off 'auto build roof' and reset the ceiling heights. The garage fix involves a small temporary room in the problem area, set with 'no roof over this room'. That room can also be deleted when 'auto build roof' is turned off. Start playing. Also, you said that the roof pitch should be 1/12". But the default roof is set at 2/12", and some of the walls are set at 2" & 3" pitch. What is it to be?

Trying to decipher what you are wanting. Is this it?

You have to open the terrain perimeter, and uncheck "flatten pad". You will also have to raise the "subfloor height above terrain" to about 18", to slightly raise the house foundation above the ground. This means that some adjustments will likely need to be done (porch floor, garage floor). I shaped, and then set, the orange colored elevation region to 0", and combined it into one region with the other region that you had to the right side of the property. I set the green colored elevation region at -102" to reveal the concrete patio (-107" was too low!). I added some retaining walls, as you suggested. I did not change anything else. You might want to add railings on top of the retaining walls, for safety.

LawB10, The plan was done in Suite 2020, and HDA 2018 will NOT open this plan.

Or is it this?

Is this what you want?

Do not post pdf's. Post a jpg. Uploading your plan FILE would help, so that someone trying to help does not have to try to replicate the plan, to get a result.