Jo_Ann

Really?

Video card problem.

Follow the directions in this knowledge base article, and you will get the sloped wall. https://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/article/KB-00904/creating-a-bonus-room-above-a-garage.html

??? You need to state which product AND it's version that you are currently using. How do you expect to get the roof correct if you have not added the 2nd floor? Your explanation of what the roof needs to look like is very poor. Posting a picture of the real house, might help.

You can't keep changing your display from left to right and get any good answers. As I understand it, the small extension with the room label "kott", needs to have a shallow gable? In the floor plan that you show, the east wall of that room needs to be set as a gable. You then set the pitch on the north and south walls of that room. This is all explained in the knowledge base articles or your reference manual. I thought the extension on the west side (with the steps) that is open to the large room, is the one you are having roof trouble with? You have NOT set those walls (north and south) as a gable. You really need to upload the plan.

You need to proof read something before you post it. What you just said makes no sense to me. We are talking about the extension on the right side of the house??? I can see from your image that you have not set the 2 gable walls of the extension. The upper/lower settings you show look correct, other than the distance to base setting, because that distance is unknown to me. If you followed the directions, you should get the same result that my image shows. I have no way of knowing what you are doing wrong without seeing the plan file (not a picture of the plan).

Now that you are probably thoroughly confused by that Chief Architect video that ricatic posted: Looking at your picture, the left side of the 2nd floor roof seems to begin at about 914mm above the 2nd floor (just guessing). This is the ceiling height you need to begin with for the 2nd floor room (uncheck flat ceiling to allow a better view inside the room). This is TEMPORARY. Main roof pitch should be set to 45°, north and south walls set as "gable". On floor 1: The extension on the left needs to have all 3 walls set to "0" on the roof tab, for a flat roof. The RIGHT side extension is where the upper/lower pitch gets used. The north and south walls of the extension should be "gable". The HIP wall roof is set to upper/lower pitch. First pitch used might be 26° (?). Upper pitch is set to the main roof pitch of 45°. YOU have to decide what the "in from baseline" distance is. Watch in a 3d view until you get it right. Architectural does not have the ability to make it curved. When the roof is correct, turn OFF auto rebuild roof. You can then re-set the 2nd floor ceiling to it's proper height, and recheck "flat ceiling over this room". You only need to build the attic as a 3rd floor ("0" ceiling height, uncheck "ceiling over this room"), if you intend to add stairs to it, which require an opening in the attic floor. Otherwise, it is automatically generated. The illustration shows the initial setting for the 2nd floor temporary ceiling height (dark gray siding) needed to get the roof eave started correctly..

To take it to the next step from what Eric showed: For the side lites, copy/paste the finished door. Adjust the width, and lites, and remove the hardware. Copy/paste this sidelight to the other side of the real door. Grab one of the sidelites, and ctrl drag it into the real door, until it looks correct. Do the same with the other sidelite. In the 2d view, you should grab each sidelite door triangle, and move it to close the "door", so it looks correct in the view.

Not hard to do, but a little bit time consuming. Copy/Paste Hold Position is your friend. You will need to make 3 custom cabinets, OR make one cabinet and then copy/paste/resize each piece for the other 2 cabinets. Use cabinet partitions or soffits for the sides. Use cabinet shelves or soffits for bottom, shelving and top (they both allow molding to be added). When your boxes are assembled, get the appropriate cabinet door (basic arched recessed panel?) from the library. Size it and place it. Change the recessed panel to glass. Get hinges and knobs from the library. Manually place them and resize them. When you have all 3 cabinets made, you might want to select each piece (per cabinet) and block each unit. This is usually easier to do in the 3d view.

Use a custom countertop to cover it up.

Check the knowledge base or your reference manual.

You need to read up on how to manually create a dormer.

This usually only applies to a cabinet base that is all drawers. You must open the "front" tab of the dbx, and set the drawer as a "blank area". Next: Go to the library (Cabinet doors, drawers, & Panels) and choose the correct style drawer front, and place it as a "fixture" in front of the cabinet. Set it to the correct size, and carefully maneuver it to the correct position on the cabinet front. Next: Repeat the process all over again to select and place the cabinet hardware handle on the drawer.

Zip file.

Check to see if you turned off "color", under the VIEW category on the tool bar.

If you need help to build a deck around a hot tub, then you should start a new post of your own, and show an example ( jpg ) of what you want to do.

OR...Save yourself from the pony wall hassle. Use a solid half wall for the entire wall, and then place a wall break where you want the entire wall to be glass. Open this part of the wall and set it to be solid panels, with it's material set as glass. Adjust the newel height (80"?) and add the door. Add a thin soffit (set to the correct height; glass material) set on top of the part of the wall that is solid. In the pic, different glass types are used to show the 2 wall sections.

Also, you will never be able to put 2 windows in the front, using that box window tool. You need to manually build the box walls.

Use the wall break tool, to make only the front 10-12" of the railing side wall to be a hip wall.

Organize your wall layers correctly, so that the exterior walls will display correctly.

The sloped soffit works. You're just not doing something right. You also have a big problem with the new walls you defined.

I didn't realize the pics you posted were the problem railings, so I set out on a mission to recreate the rail in the 1st pic. I think it's pretty close. The objects used are color coded. I drew a rail. Unchecked upper rail and lower rail; set newels to 0" width; set balusters to .75". Upper and lower rails are replaced with soffits. Top horizontal rail is a soffit; arched top is a cylinder shape. Post is a box shape. Bottom post trim is 2 soffits; top of post is a millwork cap. The decorative trim on the post (where the rails join onto) is a profiled cabinet drawer from the library.

I guess it goes without saying, if you need to customize something, then you need to show a jpeg of what you are trying to do. Someone might then be able to help.

The only way to fix that (with Architectural) is to cover it with a sloped soffit. I recommend adding the soffit on the attic level, then lowering it to where it needs to be. Putting it on the attic level prevents it from blocking your doll house view of that area.

If you are using the program for a business, and you wish to use one of the Home Designer products, then you should purchase Home Designer Pro. There are lots of auto-build possibilities for railings, but some designs might need to be created from scratch (piece by piece). You need to download the trial version of Pro, to see for yourself what it offers, and if you like it. Should you decide you would like to upgrade (after purchasing Pro) to Chief Premier, Chief Architect offers a substantial discount.