Jo_Ann

Your terrain will look a lot smoother and better if you modify your regions, as shown. 2 regions (front right area) were also deleted.

Not much of a description of what you are trying to do, so I'll guess. If this is correct, then follow the directions (reference manual) for the 'winders'. You just have to play with it, trial and error, to get them smaller. The walls are all important for getting the winder function to work. Once I had it close, I opened the stair dbx and entered exact stair width and tread depth.

Because Suite doesn't have the 'wall covering' function, you will have to do a work-around. Use a soffit or a box shape, (made very thin) placed up against the wall, and sized to cover the wall space below the chair rail. Add your material to that.

This probably won't help with the 2d cross section, but it might help with the 3d presentation.

Step #3: " The handles located in the middle of the stair allow you to control the beginning point of the flare." https://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/article/KB-00506/adding-flares-or-curves-to-stairs.html

Many ways to model a fireplace. I suggest this: From the library, choose: fireplace>mantle height>stone fireplace 6. Place it up against the wall (not thru the wall). If you want a raised hearth, raise the fireplace off the floor. Choose either a soffit or a box shape for the missing pieces (shown in blue). If you don't want the mantle, select the fireplace, and choose 'explode architectural block' (tools at the bottom of the screen ). In the 3d view, select just the mantle, and delete it. Put the stone of your choice on all the parts as needed. Done.

Lots of info on dimensions in the knowledge base, too. https://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/article/KB-00491/changing-your-dimension-settings.html

If you are starting your building with the basement, then you are already sabotaging yourself. READ the User's Guide!

You're welcome!

Use 2 slabs, one thinner than the other (one is the riser, the other is the tread) with the appropriate materials applied. Change the front of the slab to an arc (both pieces). Raise the 'tread' to be above the 'riser'. OR..you could do a second deck (pic) lower than the 1st.

Here is another pic, using elevation lines instead of regions.

ScallyPads, Why is your ceiling height lower than the door? Besides that, you did not follow the recommended building suggestions provided by the user guide. It seems that you considered the terrain perimeter to be at 0", and then set your 1st floor structure, floor (C) to be above it by 28". I'm not saying you can't do that, but it creates a mathematical nightmare (particularly with the terrain). Floor 1 (C) should be set at 0". The terrain perimeter is then generated, and the sub-floor (in your case) is set to be 28" (terrain dbx) above the terrain (I had to delete your terrain, then recreate it, because it would not behave otherwise). THEN you can start working with elevation lines and regions, and set them to the numbers indicated on your plot chart. If you've ever read many posts on this forum, most people (including some moderators) recommend NOT using elevation points. I used only elevation regions, custom shaped to make the terrain contours follow your plot numbers. The red numbers showing on the terrain contour lines, are the elevations set by the program, in response to each region setting. For the most part, you can hardly see most of the elevation changes in a 3D view, unless you zoom in really close. State Street Landscape Plan Plot Plan JoAnn.plan

ScallyPads, You also need to post the PLAN file, and use the text tool (on the plan) to show what elevations need to be, and where. Posting some pics of the real existing house would also help someone to help you.

MikeMike, You need to not hi-jack someone else's thread. Stick with your original thread to ask questions about your terrain. Post the plan file (NOT a PDF or jpeg), and use the text tool (on the plan) to show what elevation you want, and where. Someone might be able to help, then. Otherwise, it is just goose-guesses.

Haven't we already been down this road before? Open the 'ROOM' dbx and DELETE the wall covering. If you still want the textured wall covering on that 1 wall, open the WALL and select the wall covering, and paint it. You also still have the textured wall covering set for all interior walls in the default settings.

You need to notice, that the reference page says "Many polylines", NOT "All polylines". The polyline 'hole' works as described if it is set into a 'terrain feature'. Useful on the exterior, but can't be displayed inside a building. For a ceiling treatment, you would need to use soffits or a custom countertop (depending on the shape that you need). It's more work, but it is what it is.

You should already know by now, that you need to post the current PLAN file, too.

Does Pro 2015 have the custom backsplash tool? Not much to explain. The edge of the backsplash is shown highlighted, and then shaped (using the break-line tool and change arc tool).

New revelation... I discovered that if you move both porch gable walls (frame only walls) outward to align with the exterior house walls, then the unwanted roof goes away ('rebuild roof' turned on).

As Eric said, it is the wacky 'frame only' walls causing the problem. I tried adding the insulation as suggested, but it did not correct the roof problem? I think you should use a 'railing' wall, tailored to look like your screened wall. Then add a hinged glass door, tailored to look like your screened windows, with the door swing closed. This makes the unwanted roof go away (rebuild roof), and rebuilding the foundation also makes those wall warnings go away. Example below.

If you have made the shower enclosure into a 'room', then open the shower 'room' dialog box, and set the stem wall top (C) to -3". Sheesh!

Open the porch room dialog, and put a check mark in 'use soffit surface for ceiling'.

As solver says, you still have not clearly stated what you want to do. Maybe this knowledge base article will help. https://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/article/KB-00718/modeling-a-sloping-terrain-for-a-walk-out-basement.html Also, stairs are drawn from the lower level UP to the higher level, not vice versa.

I still don't understand what you are trying to do, or what you are having a problem with.

Maybe you should post a jpeg of the floor plan, showing the window and it's dimensions.