Jo_Ann

A lot of finagling, and a good understanding of how the software works, PLUS...the plan FILE, perhaps.

You already HAVE a room to designate a ceiling in. Turn OFF "auto build roof" 1st, then open the room dbx. Set the ceiling to 8' and put a check in the box for "flat ceiling over this room".

If you lower the dormer ceiling height to 48", it will build.

Step 1. Place and size doorway (10' ?) set with a broken arch (arch height 12") and remove exterior casing. Step 2. Add a backsplash. Step 3. Arch the backsplash, using the doorway arch as a guide. Step 4. Shape/resize the arc . Also reset the facet angle for a smoother arc ( 1° ?). Step 5. Pull the arc away from the wall. Edit it's thickness (4" ?).

Instead of connecting it to the deck, try placing a room divider wall (perpendicular to the fence), between the fence and the deck (preventing the fence from snapping to the deck).

DJP... After creating the backsplash arc, I moved the arc away from the wall (to see it better). Then I centered a soffit in FRONT of the arc. After sizing the soffit (depth,width and reasonable height), I then lowered the soffit to where it would contact the arc. Next, I copied/sticky pasted all the "spindles" (in FRONT of the arc). Because they were all easy to see on the floor plan, it was easy to select all of them (including the arc) and BLOCK them. Using the tab key, it was then easy to select and move each spindle into position, in the 2d view. Then I moved the entire block back into the porch wall.

The custom backsplash also works great (used only for the arc portion). Then use soffits for the spindles. Block it all together. The individual spindles can then be selected and resized or moved by use of the "tab" key (no need to unblock). Once made, the block can then be copied/pasted or added to the user library.

Just a suggestion... Flip the bathroom fixtures and relocate the door. Your guests will appreciate you.

Your ceiling heights do not appear to be, what you say they are.

Maybe this will help. Walls marked in red are HIP walls.

No.

The roof shown here, is all done using "auto build roof". So much easier than trying to manually build all the roof planes. The living room vaulted ceiling is done using 2 ceiling planes, set to 15' at their peak. I did only partial ceiling planes, so you can see their pitch difference from the 8/12" default roof pitch, exposed above the ceiling planes. The 8/12" roof pitch does not interfere with the vaulted ceiling height.

There are 3 factors here that will determine that roof build. Ceiling height in the bump-out. Roof pitch on the bump-out. And also the overhang size on the main house wall.

That bump-out looks to be much shorter than 8'.

Reference Manual: With the software open...Top of the toolbar, under "Help", "View Reference Manual". The Reference Manual PDF will load, and you can choose to download it from the "download" option on the top right side of the PDF.

For some unknown reason, the railing wall you have used, will not accept the backsplash. Build the wall the same way the existing wall with the backsplash is built, then copy/paste the backsplash. P.S. I would block the backsplash X before copy/ paste.

Just my 2 cents... Putting a full wall by the front entry helps to better distinguish it as an Entry. The added small hallway by the bath & bedroom is self explaining (and much needed). The half wall at the stairs, makes them more inviting. You have "auto build roof" turned off, so why haven't you fixed the 2nd floor?

This method might be easier: Do your rail with the posts extending to a beam. On the attic level, make the walls invisible. Add a soffit to the attic level, sized like a post. Move this into the invisible wall. Copy/ sticky paste this post as many times as needed. Do an elevation view, and move the posts into position over the existing railing posts. Change the height on each post to extend it into the roof, and into the post below it. Make the long side attic wall visible again. Add a window (like Eric did), but extend it the entire length of the wall. Set it's shape to "follow the roof". I found it necessary to change the glass material to misc>no material (library). Lastly, place another soffit over the front wall (just below the roof), and size it to match the window top casing (creates the top beam). Done.

The deck roof is not the problem. The whole plan is messed up. The room next to the 1st floor bath has no room definition. Why are the dormers placed on the 1st floor?!!! You need to view some of the tutorial videos about using the software, do the fixes, then come back for help if it is still needed.

Architectural blocks can not be resized as a whole, but individual components can be modified without exploding the "block". Place your curser over the piece you want to modify, then hit the keyboard tab until you see that individual piece highlight, then make your changes.

Both Eric's and Doug's methods work, but this method might be easier to manipulate. Draw default deck rail walls. Open each rail and reduce thickness to 1", and set as "invisible". This forms the 'Room". Add your post (I would resize it to 12" wide X 12" deep). Draw a new default deck rail outside of the porch. Open the rail and put a check in the box "no room definition". On the rail style tab, select "panels". Uncheck the boxes for "top rail" and "bottom rail". On the newel/balusters tab, reduce the width of the newel to 0" (if you want to eliminate them). Select the turned panels from the library. You can now ctrl/drag the new rail over the existing default rail. Proceed to drag the end of the turned rail to it's finished position.

Without being able to see what you are doing, and HOW you are trying to do it, I can not help.

Maybe you should post the plan file.

Maybe you should use the snippit tool to post some jpg images of what you are trying to do.

The Farmhouse website video, showing the 3d views of the front of the house (gable with 2 windows over the front door) and the interior view of the living room in that area (video), do NOT match EITHER.