Rookie65

Do you have rim joists turned on in your display for that view?

I have to do "solar ready" areas for house plans. What I do is take the roofs from the various floors and raise them all up to the attic level. Put all of the items you need to show in the attic. There you can make notes as well. Then, hide the walls and all you will be left with is the roof outlines and the other attic items you want. Also, update your signature to the version you are using, as yes, it does make a difference in what options are available to you.

That is for headers, so it's in linear feet. Don't know how you see square feet?

house wrap

What version and year of the software did you do your design with?

If you can hang in for another few months, upgrade once and go to HDP 2024 when it comes out. I have not had any major issues with 2023. A couple of little things that disappeared from 2022 to 2023, such as when you are building a deck, if you move the carrying beam to the front, raise it flush to the joists, and marked it bearing, it used to trim the other joists to be flush with the beam. So now I just delete the ones that are too long, then transform/replicate to get them all to the correct length.

You can draw the exterior walls so it encloses the 1,000 sf. Maybe 25' x 40' as simple math to start? Not sure what you mean by "how or can I put in 1000 square feet and get the exterior measurement so I can have something to work within?" Another thing that will help is to put in your signature the version of Home Designer you are using and the year. I am pretty sure "Solver" will post his usual list of items to help you.

If you do it with a soffit, you can add the chair rail on the soffit. If you need the tile on all of the walls, then eliminate it from the wall covering you have. Then add the moulding itself at the height needed on just the one wall you want it on by using a thin soffit with a moulding. .

Try eliminating the wall covering on all of the walls. Then on the one wall that needs it, cover it with a soffit set to the thickness of the tile and put your chair rail on top of that.

Try making it a 2nd floor with a rough ceiling height of 1-1/2". That will allow for a perimeter nailer for the rafters. Turn off auto rebuild roof, raise the ceiling to what you need. Then you should be able to build your auto stairwell. That will put railings around the opening.

I think what Jo_Ann means is to set the top elevation of the grade to the distance below the 1st floor subfloor. Then you can adjust it up or down from there to match your own needs

Start with the house. Probably set your default measurements for drawing from interior wall to interior wall. It'll be easier to transfer the measurements to the plan.

When I run into something like that, I will make the soffit smaller by whatever the thickness is of the material you want it to be in each direction. Then copy the soffit, move it along the axis you need to, then change that soffit to the material you desire.

You should probably upgrade to Pro 2023. I believe this was the first version to have the multiple layout page option.

Ah, I see. Stuff like that may be best drawn manually on the section detail you will include with the plan. Especially since floor 0 can't be edited for items below. Unless you tried using the existing concrete floor, change it's thickness to what you need for your material, then in the floor finish, make that the thickness of your concrete floor? Even just a polyline with some type of fill pattern and a notation will suffice. Most of the time, the materials list created by HD is not accurate enough to bid from. Usually much better off having the people bid from the plan. As long as the material is noted in the section, they should be able to pick it up

Either try to post your plan, or take a look through the reference manual. With just images, it's impossible to see what your settings are that may be doing this.

In that view, go to the top toolbar and look for the "house" icon next to the mouse orbit tool. There you can toggle shadows on and off too.

It's much simpler than trying to find someone to give you the plan in X14. The structure will give you the joist and subfloor. When you open up the room, there is another layer built in that you can adjust the thickness of to give you the finished floor. It is right above what you have highlighted at the 12-5/8" dimension. The default is 3/4" for wood flooring, etc. You can change it to whatever thickness you need, whether 1/2" for tile, 3/8" for engineered flooring, etc To look at it in section will give you the layers of framing, subfloor and finished floor

Each camera has it's own display options. Try turning shadows on for the camera you are using for the interior view

Depending on what is in your library for options, try searching in the library by the keywords "Window Grille." There are several in the catalog that may work for you, including some decorative ones. It is in Pro, if not the others.

A lot of it is common sense and having a way that all of the loads get carried down to the foundation or grade.

I use HD Pro and have since 2013. I've drawn over 730 residential projects with it. One thing to verify is what your state allows designers to draw without being licensed. Here in MA, we can draw any 1-2 family dwelling or addition to. The contractors need to be licensed and insured to build it. They will normally do their own material takeoffs, as I would not rely on the material list from HDP. They all calculate waste in their own way. Regarding engineered material, such LVL, I-joists, roof trusses, etc., most Inspectors want some certified documentation that what I've drawn for those items will work. I design with what should work from information in the materials published span charts. Yet I always note that it is to be verified by others qualified to do. Many of the lumberyards have staff on hand who can take the plans and run the calculations with the software given to them by their engineered material source. Roof trusses are typically designed by the truss manufacturer. A local licensed structural engineer that can take your plan to review and stamp is also a great person to have access to, as some towns will still require a stamped set of drawings. I've never had an issue with drawing the foundation plan and needing an engineer. I hope this helps you a bit.

Select the floor/area that you want to change. Then open up that room and select materials. Take the flooring listed in "Plan Materials" and select it. Then copy it, save it as a name you want to use, then change the pattern and texture to the opposite degree shown, If it's part of a floor that you want to have keep the original direction, then create a room with the new material. Hope this helps

Sure. The polyline does work with the solid white infill

No, I didn't try it, and Eric is correct. I would do the mask on the plan sheet using a polyline and making the lines blank and the infill white. When it's put on the layout, it may creat a blank area for any other pages put over that area. Invisible walls used to work nicely when they were just a single line.