Rookie65

Did you try shortening the door height and set the bottom height above the drawers? If you have the bottom at "0", then it won't let you place it. Not sure why you would use a half wall if it goes from floor to ceiling? Using a regular interior wall might make things a lot easier.

Once you have the 1st set where you want them, try using the transform/replicate tool in plan view to move them along the ceiling at the desired spacing.

If you make it from a material other than the kitchen counter material, I would think that it would show up on the material list as that material. The material lists generated from the program are only as accurate as your plan. I think you'll find that most builders will do their own estimates, as each one does it differently. The program list may be a good starting point for a budget price, yet to base material ordering from it would leave you missing materials, in my opinion.

Build each tread with a custom countertop.Subtract the thickness of the tread, as you will use the riser you created to make the tread. The custom counter can be cut at the angle you need with the break tool. Then transform/replicate each piece, raise it up, then adjust the depth to what your tread will be. Start at the bottom.

David, I don't think his question has anything to do with framing. I think he wants to have the program name be his company and not the default? The problem I see with trying to change the name may be that if there are updates, etc. that you want to download, the program name won't be valid anymore? I am just guessing, and it's probably a question better suited for technical support. KTUJMD - it will help everyone if you can update your signature and put the software version and year in it. Otherwise, people are guessing. Just go to your user name in the top right corner, open profile, then see the signature tab on the bottom.

Ok, great. Try drawing your curved walls a little ways from the main house. Once it's done, go to "edit area" and select all floors. Then you may be able to align it with "point to point" move to the location you want it to be in. That will bring all levels of floors with it. Leave the straight walls away from it for now, since they'll be the easiest to connect once you have the curved room where you want it. If you are doing 2 curved areas, then "transform-replicate" the 1st one before you attach it a good distance from the 2nd wall/area,. so you align it the same as the 1st. I hope this helps.

Help us all by adding your signature with your program and year. Then a solution can be better attained for you. Go to your user name in the top right corner, then to account settings. There you will see signature. Put the program title and year in it so it doesn't have to be searched for with each of your posts.

Did you try the bonus catalogs? There are some wood options there.

Why don't you download the trial version and see for yourself? Only you will know what you consider to be an improvement.

Should be an option under the wall defaults, depending on which version of the program you're using

You have it checked in Legacy plan file. Go to your plan's default settings under "Plan" and look for the box near the bottom. That is where it should change for you. Double doors may be the exception to the rule, unless you mark it center hinged maybe?

Open the wall type and check the defaults to see what the framing is at. Or try the "help" tab on each page, or your reference manual too.

You have to manually place them

The library search has been updated. Type in your word and then hit "enter." Depending on your settings, that should bring it up. Or check the manual, as there are several "upgrades" which are frustrating and take a little bit to decipher.

Go to the infill library and select wood grain for 1 and change the size. Number 2 is fill style angle hatch right in the default menu

You could also simply add up the layer thicknesses you have/want and see if it adds up to the total thickness of what your new wall type shows when you open up the detail

Are you talking about corner boards? There is a default setting you can change to be what you need. If the color isn't available in the catalog, often if you can get the color you want from a picture off of the product's website, You can import that and create the item to have that color to it. I suggest reading the reference manual on the steps to do that and about the corner trim, if that's what you need. Plus anything else you have questions on. Often going there first will save you from having to wait for someone to reply to your inquiry. For the bottom board, often referred to as "water table, depending on geographic your region", you can change the walls to have a "wall covering", and determine the location of it. What I often do in that case is take the James Hardie trim board in Arctic white, then paint it the color I want it to be. Then when you add the board to the other walls, you can select the painted arctic white coard to be the material. Just make sure you put it on the exterior, as it defaults to interior

How about submitting a case to tech support? Attach your plan and let them look at it. They'll give you a definitive answer.

Those look like temporary points and can be deleted by clearing temporary points in its drop down box. Not knowing which version program you are using, it may be something else like roof intersection points.

Please post your questions under the "Q&A" tab, as not everyone checks this regularly. Once you repost there, then you can delete this. Often posting the plan will help as well. Keep it under the size limit and it will post and someone can try to look at it. What happens if you make your attic wall the same wall type as the rest of that wall? Sometimes that "out of alignment" check will come up if you may be using a 2x4 attic wall over a 2x6 exterior wall. Sometimes you just need to ignore it and align it manually if the walls are 2 different thicknesses

Did you try the "break" tool between the dormers and then drag both sides in the direction they need to go?

See if you have in the DBX of the units the framing or rough opening showing a jack stud or what the rough opening is. You may need to delete the stud or set the RO to "0" to put the frames together. Also eliminate the casing and then do the perimeter in soffits of the casing profile. Maybe that will help?

In real life applications, mulling windows to door jambs is not advisable. Usually a double stud pocket should be between them. That way, you aren't trying to shim a door to be level against the jamb of a window, as that can then put the window frame out of square. Plus with the longer screws used to secure the door, it may end up going too far into the window frame.

There are 2 there that have keypads. Look again

Depending on what program you have, which is important to note, look at the icons for railing, then the drop downs for curved deck railing. That should get you started.