Rookie65

Members
  • Posts

    978
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Rookie65

  1. Then how do you have a tray ceiling, as they are usually a different height?
  2. If the ceilings are different heights, try using room dividers to enclose the higher ceiling room and change the height of the new room
  3. Open the wall type, click on the siding, then adjust it
  4. Open up the dialog box and you will see the spacing. Then adjust it
  5. Yes, you can do that. Yet I think it helps if you can reference a manufacturer that makes the product so you don't present something made up that may not actually be available. As not all of a manufacturers products are available in all areas.
  6. Have you downloaded the certainteed catalog? If so, go to siding>vertical >8" board and batten. Then edit the spacing to 12" or whatever it is. Make sure the texture changed too. Then paint it the color you need it to be
  7. The program default is 1st floor for level 1. Try to fix that before getting wrapped up in the other stuff. Probably wouldn't hurt to spend time reading the reference manual
  8. The 1st floor should be level 1. The basement would be level 0.
  9. Can't do that that I know of. They're either there or not. What are the pdf's of, section details, floor plans, etc?
  10. Depending on what you are doing with the PDF, you can move it along an axis, typically "X", a number of inches so it's out of the way. Then you can move it back if you need to trace another part of it, etc. That's how I understand your question.
  11. I think I get it. Correct terminology is important so people can follow along. And flat-angled is an oxymoron
  12. From what I can tell Jo-Ann, it's the lower pitched roofs on either side of the gable he has over the entryway? This will be best done with manual roofs. Delete the "roof over room" for the front porch, then auto rebuild the roof so it just covers the house. Then build the rest of the roof manually and DON'T turn "auto rebuild roofs" back on.
  13. You'll get more responses if you post questions under the "Q&A" tab. Also, please create a signature with the version and year program you are using. It will provide the information people need to better help.
  14. What program are you using? If you're using Chief Architect, then you are in the wrong forum. This is for the Home Designer product lines, which don't have layers for electrical. https://chieftalk.chiefarchitect.com/
  15. Why don't you just click the wall and drag the left wall back to the vertical wall?
  16. What version of Home Designer and the year do you have? That information is important before anyone can begin to help you. If you have Pro, manual roofs are the tool to read up on.
  17. What version of home designer do you have? You'll likely want Pro for manual roofs.
  18. Wasn't sure since I don't use them, so I suggested the closed box too
  19. Posts are in the general framing box next to the floor framing box in the top row. It looks like 4-5 vertical lines. Or try looking at your reference manual. You'll see posts, posts with footings, etc. Or just search for "closed", take that shape and make it the depth, width, height, and material it needs to be. Very simple
  20. Is the wall built as a railing? You could make the newel posts smaller, then use a post in the framing box, make it the size of what it needs to be and set the height to reach the bottom of the beam. Then take the center of the new post and align it in the center "x" of the railing newel
  21. No, stile, it's the vertical part of the panel
  22. When you open the item, you can change the stile and rail sizes. See the panel and bottom width size near the bottom of what you have open. Don't forget to adjust the hardware backset.
  23. Which product of the 2024 version, Home Designer Pro, Suite, Architectural? Is it an upgrade, or new install? When you go to your library, you should see the option to "download core content." Maybe a look in your reference manual will help guide you better, since you will know what steps you've taken