Rookie65

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Everything posted by Rookie65

  1. Wasn't sure since I don't use them, so I suggested the closed box too
  2. Posts are in the general framing box next to the floor framing box in the top row. It looks like 4-5 vertical lines. Or try looking at your reference manual. You'll see posts, posts with footings, etc. Or just search for "closed", take that shape and make it the depth, width, height, and material it needs to be. Very simple
  3. Is the wall built as a railing? You could make the newel posts smaller, then use a post in the framing box, make it the size of what it needs to be and set the height to reach the bottom of the beam. Then take the center of the new post and align it in the center "x" of the railing newel
  4. No, stile, it's the vertical part of the panel
  5. When you open the item, you can change the stile and rail sizes. See the panel and bottom width size near the bottom of what you have open. Don't forget to adjust the hardware backset.
  6. Which product of the 2024 version, Home Designer Pro, Suite, Architectural? Is it an upgrade, or new install? When you go to your library, you should see the option to "download core content." Maybe a look in your reference manual will help guide you better, since you will know what steps you've taken
  7. What version and year of the program are you using? Did you download your core catalogs?
  8. Your main living floor should be at "0". Then set your patio and porches at a negative number and that should drop them down. You can always check your reference manual or the help tab that is on every screen so you don't have to wait for someone to reply
  9. Try copy and paste the other floors individually maybe?
  10. Rookie65

    Terrain UGH!!!

    Set a bunch of elevation lines for the low height and call them "0". Then a bunch for the higher elevation. (+ how much the difference should be). Keep a space between the high and low for the distance you want to have sloped. Rebuild terrain and it should take care of it. The reasons for having a bunch at the same elevation on each side is to keep those areas flat. It's not too hard once you get an understanding of how it's programmed to work.
  11. Go to edit area>all floors. Copy and paste it. It's in your reference manual too
  12. Did you look at edit>default>camera tools>Perspective full overview>plan display? Or you could even try looking through your reference manual
  13. Try searching the core library for pools
  14. You'll be able to make those with manual roofs, yet Architectural currently does not have that feature
  15. Typically you want to keep dimensions to full feet measurements if possible, and to a 1/4" for your fractions for interior walls. Ideally you want to have no fractions for your exterior walls so it makes it easier to set foundation walls square. Likely framers will round off odd looking fractions anyway, yet to show them on the plan that way likely won't win you too many friends. That's my 2 cents anyway.
  16. You don't have to use exterior walls for everything. Just make a box to define an area, then use interior walls for the room you're drawing inside the box.
  17. When I design interior projects like kitchens or baths, I will draw a perimeter with exterior walls, then lay out the needed interior walls. This way, when you put in doors, doorways, etc, the program will default to your interior door specs, Plus if you do the 3D interior views, it will provide extra depth of an existing structure to them.
  18. Make sure that the roof touches the exterior wall in those locations
  19. Without a picture of what you're looking for, I'd ask if you have tried a valance?
  20. Pro will let you draw manual roof planes, which are very helpful. You can also see a comparison on the website to look at the other differences.
  21. Please fill out your signature with the program version and year. Not all of the versions have what you need to do this. A scissor truss will usually allow for the lower chord to be 1/2 the rise of the main truss. A 2/12 pitch is basically flat and a scissor chord of a 1/12 isn't worth even bothering with, in my opinion
  22. I have my labels defaulted to what Jo_Ann mentioned. Go to the window settings and in the label, hit the enter key once you put it before the text a couple of times and it will move the label down a bit. Keep in mind that whichever wall the window is on, the label will show up either inside or outside of the structure.
  23. Depends on the program you have, yet there is a bonus catalog that has those in it
  24. Is "Show on floor below" checked in the "rough opening" tab? Or is auto rebuild foundation turned off?
  25. Ask questions under the "Q&A" section so more people will see it. Try looking at the drop down box for the pony wall and look at the alignment options. Maybe even try the help tab or reference manual.