Rookie65

I agree. What I usually do is start with a valance and make it as thick as the porch or whatever it's going over. Or shape a custom backsplash and make the depth and material to be what the ceiling is. Then "Transform/Replicate" it just a couple of inches and make it the color of what the exterior trim is supposed to be. That gives it a cap while the rest of it is the ceiling material.

Do you mean a double acting, that swings in or out? There is an option in the interior door defaults that can be checked to show it swings in both directions. I don't remember if it is available in HDP 2021. Also, it's better if you post questions in the "Q&A" section. More people are likely to see it there.

I use that often. Place the first ones, then transform/replicate to get the rest of them placed. Can't say I understand the cad box method

See if this helps https://blog.recessedlighting.com/recessed-lighting-calculator/

Try opening the wall, go to structure. There should be an option to extend the wall through the start or the end. I don't remember if that version showed which was the start or end

Go to "File>Import>import drawing (DWG, DXF) and follow the prompts from there. If you need to adjust the scale, follow what I replied with last week.

You have already been told by Chief Architect that you can not create custom layers in HD Suite, nor any of the HD products. Maybe you could create something and save it to your user library, yet a layer for it is not an option. Maybe in Chief Architect Premier, if you're willing to pay for that upgrade?

Try checking "floor under this room" in the structure tab

If you have it as a PDF, import it into your plan. Click on the PDF, then in the bottom tool bar, you'll see a dark blue box w/a red double arrow. Click that button, start the line at a point and move it straight across to the end point of a known or dimensioned spot. Then, it will show you the dimension it read, and you can then adjust that to be what it needs to be. You'll probably want to zoom in as close as you can so you can get a very accurate point marker. You can decide to keep the aspect scale or not. I usually do for a start, then double check it..

Try changing the number of lights vertical. That will fix it for you.

Does Architectural have different lite options, such as craftsman? You can also search many of your questions in the reference manual so you don't have to wait for someone else to guide you

Try doing it with exterior wall coverings

Without seeing the plan, I am just guessing. See if you have a ceiling surface over the deck. Sometimes when a deck is made in Pro 2024, the room will be marked as "unspecified." Check to see that it is a room type of a deck and your structure. That may help

You might have to draw the pipes as poly lines in plan view. Then change the infill to solid and the color you want it to be. Though unless you're printing the plans in color, the colors won't matter, so maybe an infill of 2 different patterns may work better?

Please add the version and year of software you are using to your signature. It helps everyone who may want to help you. Go to your username in the top right corner, click "profile", then on signature. Items can't be made live.

Ok, then the next step is to use the "Terrain Hole" option in the landscape tools on the 1st floor and turn off "hide terrain intersected by buildings"

Did you try rebuilding the terrain? Please add the version and year of software you are using to your signature please. It helps everyone who may want to help you. Go to your username in the top right corner, click "profile", then on signature.

Use an interior wall and change the framing layer to "insulation with studs". Or do what is often done and just notate it on the plan

Should be. Go to your "Dimensions" settings, and see what they are set at. When all else fails, try the reference manual and search the topic.

Sounds like outer surface would make the dimensions the same, yet then you have an overhang to the inside. Do you have the option to make the foundation wider?

Do the math. You have an 8" foundation with a 6" frame wall plus brick above. Try looking at a section view to see how they are lining up over each other.

Without seeing the plan, I am thinking that you may need to adjust the pony wall alignment layer, as brick width is probably the 4-1/2" difference you are getting. Aligning to sheathing layer may fix it.

Try using the terrain hole feature, mark the area to the outside of the foundation for the whole floor, then uncheck "hide terrain intersected by building.

You should be able to go to the attic floor and extend the wall over the room. Or try taking the ceiling plane line and bringing it all the way to the wall where the window is. This has been asked about many times, so there are likely previous posts about it that you can search for under keywords.

You could also try making it with landings, since they will report as stair parts and have the tread and side material that you want to make it. Start at the bottom and work up.