Rookie65

Did you try looking at the bonus catalogs? Always a good place to start

Often even if you change the defaults, you will see a message that says you will need to change individual roof planes. Open each roof and see what the spacing shows there and change as needed.

Try setting your manual dimensions to dimension from surfaces to the center of fixtures. That may solve it.

It could also be that a round railing is the default in the style plan you chose to start with. If you don't pick a style and just start your plan, likely everything will be in the default material, which will give you square rails and balusters.

You can copy it on the floor it's on, then go to another floor and "paste-hold position" and it'll put it the same spot it was. Then you can delete the 1st one

Nothing that I have seen. Sometimes you just have to hit "tab" and move on to the next object

You will find a lot of great product options and catalogs in there. Strongly suggest that you spend some time reading the instruction manual and using the on-screen "help" tab at the top of each window

You can check your framing defaults to see if you have auto rebuild walls checked or not. That is often the culprit

You could also download some of the bonus catalogs that are stone based, and change the material to one of the styles you like.

Open the door specification box, and under options, check "separate trim and materials on each side". Change the exterior to match the interior casing if needed. Then you can paint the door, trim and casing for the desired side. I don't believe you can set an interior door as an exterior, as the door defaults by the wall type it's put into..

My thought is since the niche will only be inset partially, the support framing could be installed on the flat edge, and the under window support could be plywood on top of those supports. The nailing flange would be installed to those studs on the outside and nothing would be seen on the inside since drywall and the mirror surface would fill in the inset area.

Look under "General framing" and also make sure "deck post footings" are turned on in your display options

Did you try moving the footings in plan view? Another option may be to put the post spacing at a dimension that is bigger than the deck. That will give you just the end posts. Then use the "post with footing" item and run the post from the ground up to the ceiling beam and make the ceiling beam out of a soffit or closed box.

I wonder if using a niche may work? Eliminate the casing and set the backing as the mirror. You can set the depth to what you need. Plus it doesn't go to the outside, so the exterior wouldn't be changed.

Maybe check to see if your printer setting is reducing the page to fit

If the cabinets are solid doors, try putting 2 - 6" deep ones back to back. If the doors are glass, then maybe an "open front and back" block with glass doors at each end? Try some creativity when things are not readily available as you'd like.

David, He wants to put doors on both sides of a wall cabinet that is going over peninsula or island cabinets. Not against a wall, it will be in the middle of the room.

Without the plan to look at, it's hard to tell what has happened. Do you have an extra exterior wall just inside the 2nd floor that isn't aligned? Or a "polyline created in 3D" or whatever the message says?

If Architectural has manual roofs, that's what you'd use. A lot of information on it in the reference manual or the "help" function in the program

Create a marquee box around it and delete. Check the floor below too to check the framing is gone too. Or just delete one of the handrail sections and it unbuilds.

Nothing I had to work on. I do it often and it becomes second nature. Just logically think through what you're trying to accomplish and it will come to you

Set the second floor ceiling height to maybe 1-1/2", for the height of a single sill plate.Then rebuild the roof, checking "ignore 2nd floor" on the roof DBX. Turn of "auto rebuild roof" and change the 2nd level ceiling height to what you want it to be and the walls won't come through the roof. You may need to adjust the roof start by the "transform/replicate" tool to get the rafter cuts to start at the sill plate you added

Do you have "Auto rebuild roofs" turned on?

What happens if you use the "break wall" tool on either side of the posts?

Are you flush framing the joists to the beam, or setting the joists over the beam? Either way, you can move the deck framing supports how you want to . You put the edge of the post even with the outside of the beam. You can run the post to the top of the joist height. If you are flush framing, move the beam to the outside edge of the joist framing, then open the setting and move it up the depth of the joist