Rookie65

Guessing you have auto build roofs on and your foundation isn't aligned with the wall above

Look at your room defaults and change the ceiling finish to 0". Your view may show the plywood or OSB subfloor above, so you may need to change your subfloor to the finished flooring you are using if that's what you want to see..

I do a lot of basement remodel plans. What I have done is created an interior wall type of 2x6 with drywall on one side and a vapor barrier on the other. Depending on where you live and your energy codes, you may need to adjust it's structure. Or you may be able to use 2x4 with spray foam insulation. Then when I get to the windows, I use a "pass through" and make it half an inch bigger than the window on width and height and suppress the label and set it to eliminate the exterior casing and sill so it sits flush. Then align it with the window so there's a 1/4" reveal on 4 sides. You can do that for exterior doors as well. In Pro, for whatever reason, there may be times when a finished flooring is added to the concrete floor, it will move the windows on you. I don't know if it's been fixed in the 2022 version yet.

There's a couple of pool tables available in the bonus catalogs.

If you have auto rebuild walls on, it could possibly be that there are a couple of layers of wall there, so it isn't cutting through just one layer. Without the plan file, it's just a guess, though it does happen.

When you are on the layout page, go to the "Display Options" box up top, open it, and uncheck "Layout Box Labels" and that should take care of it.

My thought is that it depends on what type of cabinet you are using. If it's a traditional overlay front w/a framed box, then the doors are usually recessed in from the sides. If it's full overlay, then the doors go right to the outside of the box. For the other fixtures you mentioned, if you know the manufacturer and/or have access to their specs, that should guide you as to what you may or not need for space.

Thank you Eric That is good information to have.

I suppose you could just expand on the label you created by manually entering text under the widow size in the label box such as "header @ 80" above subfloor" or something like that. If you need to change the height for a specific window, change the text for that one only and the rest will have the default you set up.

Try the bonus catalogs under specialty doors. You can purchase additional catalogs there and that may work for you.

You can take the directional arrow when you click on the item and rotate it so the label moves to the top or either side of it. You can also open the label of the item, go to "specify label" and hit the enter key to insert more spaces should you ever need to do that as well.

Sorry Sandra, I wasn't sure what it had. I started with Architectural and after a week I knew it wasn't "flexible" enough to do what I was going to need to do. Well worth the money to go to Pro if you plan to do a lot.of design.

Go to your defaults and check your dimensions tab and change the "locate objects" to center instead of sides.

Did you look?

Try making it from a straight railing and make it panels instead of balusters. Maybe spend some more time with your reference manual as well.

Look at the bonus catalogs

I didn't see an attached plan, yet check what the materials are for the lights themselves in the item's settings. It's one of those things that started in the 2020 release where they didn't always default on, even with the setting be told to do so. When you open the materials, go to the "bulb" and make sure it's set with "lighting white" or whichever one you want to use. When it's been changed, it should then show.

Depending on which version you have, you most likely can't. That was something that was changed, possibly in error, over the last couple of editions. It's one of those things that is irritating, yet will require a programming fix rather than a user fix. That is my opinion on it. Hopefully that is something on their fix list for the 2022 versions.

Try the core catalogs under millwork>columns>stacked. You might find one there that will work, maybe the "stacked round?"

Look in the "Bonus Catalogs" which are available for purchase under Library>Get additional Content online" for porch millwork. They may be in other places too, such as columns

You may be able to adjust it in a section view. Find the high spot, highlight that wall and then take the edit handle and drag it down until it's even with the floor where you want it to be.

I am using Pro 21 and discovered a way to create a label. Go to your window and under "label" go to specify label. Then in the label box, enter %width%x%height%SH (the SH is for single hung, though you could change it for the type of window it is. It should display as 36"x60"SH. Hopefully it will work in your version

As each camera view type has items that can be turned on or off, check to see if exterior furniture or fixtures is turned on for that view.

Yes, very simple. Create a new wall type that has the siding you want. Then change just the gable walls to the new wall type in plan view on your attic level. As a side note, since it's a gable wall, you may not want the drywall on the inside, so delete that as well while you're creating the new wall. Then when you draw your section view, it will show studding and not drywall inside.

If you look at it closer, you'll see a gap in framing over your bay window. What you will need for an engineer to review it is the roof framing materials (rafter materials, ridge material, collar ties, etc.) called out on a roof framing plan.A 3D picture of "sticks" will honestly do nothing for them. They need to know the spans, etc., which this doesn't show. If you are going to be using roof trusses, the truss manufacturer will have their engineers calculate and design the truss layout and specs so it WILL support the roof. Plus they can often supply the stamped engineering that the building inspectors will want to show the structure is sound.