Rookie65

Look at the "Rectangular Polyline" drop down box. As was mentioned to you before, the reference manual is great to use so you aren't losing time waiting for someone to answer a question when the answer can be found easily.

I keep my default section detail notes on a word document. Then I copy and paste into a text box and modify as needed for the client and/or the project.

Go to your cabinet defaults. Under wall cabinet, check the box marked "backsplash to base below." Set your thickness and the material you wish it to be. For the areas where there isn't a wall cabinet, use a soffit to fill in those gaps. Painting will just paint a whole wall, as you've found.

The original poster said they used black lines, so I was following what he said.

You don't even need to put in black lines. Just hit the "enter" key a couple of times and it will add spaces to move the call size

It sure looks connected in your post. You do realize that you need to do that procedure to the 2nd floor wall, since that's the one that is being intersected?

Go to the wall specification. Open it up. Go to the "roof" section. At the very bottom is a box that says "Lower wall type if split by Butting roof". Check that, change the lower type to an interior or whatever you want and that should fix it. Your manual is also a great place to look for this stuff.

You can tell it to change the wall type below the roof to whatever you need it to be. The 2nd picture in your post looks like it's facing into the lower room and the siding is the 2nd floor exterior wall.

You can try to go to your wall, open the "roof" dbx, then look at the bottom where you can change what the wall type is under a roof.

Change the ceiling material to whatever it is you want it to be . . . if Suite lets you do that. You'll find it in the DBX for "Floors & Rooms".

If you aren't going to change the window size, you can open the label and put a couple of "enter" taps in before it and it will move below the window if that helps. If you change the size, the label won't change, so be careful if you use this.

You'll find some nice improvements on the deck tools in 2021.

That option was not available in HDP 2020. It came out in 2021.

When you move the wall, is it still connected to another wall to close the area up? If there's an open wall connection, it won't tally the footage.

I don't know if Suite has the ability, yet maybe you could open up your roof framing view, copy a rafter from each side and move them down along the "Z" axis to get them to the level you want. Then "transform/replicate" along the X or Y axis @ 16" oc to make them all show?

if you click on the terrain, you will see it probably has "hide terrain intersected by building" checked. Uncheck that and it should go away. What you can then do is go to the 1st floor plan, go to the terrain drop box, find "terrain hole" and draw that to the outside of the framing in the walls. It's something that's been happening over the last few releases and frankly, it becomes annoying. Yet at least there is a simple work around. You'll see it with cantilevers, etc. too.

It's happened to me before too. It just shows up sometimes in a blue color on the layout sheet. No big deal, just delete the view and carry on.

You can also go to Marvin's website and download the catalogs for HD pro https://www3.marvin.com/tools-and-documents?collection=signature&line=ultimate&category=window&product=1&resType=drawing&resId=634

Something else that may help you going forward is to change your wall definitions. Looking at the "colors" of the framing, I am guessing your walls are framed with material "2x4 @16" oc?" If you change it to "fir framing", ,you will get the same color as the lumber in your joists. Don't know if that has anything to do with your walls being off, yet that "pasty" material won't show up as studs in section views. Just a thought.

From that picture, it almost looks like your rafters are perpendicular to the gable wall and not parallel with it?

Make sure the wall framing is aligned. See if there is a difference between the wall you want on the right versus the left one. Or even try reading through your reference manual under walls. Don't type in things like "overlapping", just look for walls.

It wasn't for names, it was for wall type.

Depending on where you live, those are pre-cut studs at 104-5/8". Often used to achieve 9' ceiling heights. Again, it could be a regional thing.

I suppose you could try to model one out of a door using a glass slab. Just will need to spend some time adjusting the panel size and trim.

You could read up on "Energy Heel Trusses" in the reference manual and see if that works for what you wish to achieve?