Rookie65

I downloaded it for Pro 22 and got "images not available", which is too bad, because it would be a helpful catalog to have. Thank you, David, for the help.

Not available for Home Designer, yet is available in Chief.as a download

If the infilled area is it's own shape, try "transform/replicate" and raise it on the z axis a fraction of an inch and you can also resize it by a percentage to have what you want showing for driveway. You can also set the distance manually to fine tune it once it's resized smaller. Then make the material grass and see how that looks

Try finding what the distance from the ceiling to the bottom of the shelf is. If you look at the light defaults, they usually have a spot where you can select the distance from the ceiling you want them to be. Once you have one as you wish, use the "transform/replicate" function to move the rest where you want them to go. If Architectural has that function?

Since it's a detail you are having trouble finding, how about if you draw a section view of the door in your plan using wedges, etc. Where it's a small detail and likely to be missed even if you can model it at the scale the 3D views default at. This will save you time and get your point across if it's critical.

Did you look at the bonus catalogs for the cabinet doors?

No, just leave the 2020 installed. Plus you will probably have files in the archive that were done with 2020 that you may need to open again some time.

Does architectural have closed boxes available in shapes?

I copy the plan, then hide the window and door labels, manual and automatic dimensions, cabinet labels, etc.. Then turn the wall default fill to solid black. This way the original plan stays intact and you can print floors separately if you desire.

It doesn't really have a name other than a return. Just go to the roof, use the "break line" tool where the roof and brick intersect, then drag the section of the roof over the distance you want it to be. Works the same when you want to have the roof extend to cover corner boards, etc.

That's about the most you can do that I have found. Sometimes they are nice to keep and rename, say for finished or unfinished attic, etc. Just change the materials for each and that will speed up the process a little when changing room types.

You get a lot more than just that. Compare the 2 programs

With Architectural, you don't have manual roofs. Upgrade to Pro and you can eliminate that problem with having 2 different pitches

Just do it with manual roofs. Your reference guide is a great place to start so you can find answers for yourself instead of having to wait for people to respond.

Have you checked that your computer meets the minimum specifications to run the program? Do you have enough memory/storage space?

Another option is to use a soffit surface for the ceiling at the thickness you need it to be. You can then set it to be placed under the ceiling. That way you can leave your auto build roof setting on in case you need to rebuild something down the road.

Go to the display preferences and uncheck roof planes

Guessing you have auto build roofs on and your foundation isn't aligned with the wall above

Look at your room defaults and change the ceiling finish to 0". Your view may show the plywood or OSB subfloor above, so you may need to change your subfloor to the finished flooring you are using if that's what you want to see..

I do a lot of basement remodel plans. What I have done is created an interior wall type of 2x6 with drywall on one side and a vapor barrier on the other. Depending on where you live and your energy codes, you may need to adjust it's structure. Or you may be able to use 2x4 with spray foam insulation. Then when I get to the windows, I use a "pass through" and make it half an inch bigger than the window on width and height and suppress the label and set it to eliminate the exterior casing and sill so it sits flush. Then align it with the window so there's a 1/4" reveal on 4 sides. You can do that for exterior doors as well. In Pro, for whatever reason, there may be times when a finished flooring is added to the concrete floor, it will move the windows on you. I don't know if it's been fixed in the 2022 version yet.

There's a couple of pool tables available in the bonus catalogs.

If you have auto rebuild walls on, it could possibly be that there are a couple of layers of wall there, so it isn't cutting through just one layer. Without the plan file, it's just a guess, though it does happen.

When you are on the layout page, go to the "Display Options" box up top, open it, and uncheck "Layout Box Labels" and that should take care of it.

My thought is that it depends on what type of cabinet you are using. If it's a traditional overlay front w/a framed box, then the doors are usually recessed in from the sides. If it's full overlay, then the doors go right to the outside of the box. For the other fixtures you mentioned, if you know the manufacturer and/or have access to their specs, that should guide you as to what you may or not need for space.

Thank you Eric That is good information to have.