Rookie65

It doesn't really have a name other than a return. Just go to the roof, use the "break line" tool where the roof and brick intersect, then drag the section of the roof over the distance you want it to be. Works the same when you want to have the roof extend to cover corner boards, etc.

That's about the most you can do that I have found. Sometimes they are nice to keep and rename, say for finished or unfinished attic, etc. Just change the materials for each and that will speed up the process a little when changing room types.

You get a lot more than just that. Compare the 2 programs

With Architectural, you don't have manual roofs. Upgrade to Pro and you can eliminate that problem with having 2 different pitches

Just do it with manual roofs. Your reference guide is a great place to start so you can find answers for yourself instead of having to wait for people to respond.

Have you checked that your computer meets the minimum specifications to run the program? Do you have enough memory/storage space?

Another option is to use a soffit surface for the ceiling at the thickness you need it to be. You can then set it to be placed under the ceiling. That way you can leave your auto build roof setting on in case you need to rebuild something down the road.

Go to the display preferences and uncheck roof planes

Guessing you have auto build roofs on and your foundation isn't aligned with the wall above

Look at your room defaults and change the ceiling finish to 0". Your view may show the plywood or OSB subfloor above, so you may need to change your subfloor to the finished flooring you are using if that's what you want to see..

I do a lot of basement remodel plans. What I have done is created an interior wall type of 2x6 with drywall on one side and a vapor barrier on the other. Depending on where you live and your energy codes, you may need to adjust it's structure. Or you may be able to use 2x4 with spray foam insulation. Then when I get to the windows, I use a "pass through" and make it half an inch bigger than the window on width and height and suppress the label and set it to eliminate the exterior casing and sill so it sits flush. Then align it with the window so there's a 1/4" reveal on 4 sides. You can do that for exterior doors as well. In Pro, for whatever reason, there may be times when a finished flooring is added to the concrete floor, it will move the windows on you. I don't know if it's been fixed in the 2022 version yet.

There's a couple of pool tables available in the bonus catalogs.

If you have auto rebuild walls on, it could possibly be that there are a couple of layers of wall there, so it isn't cutting through just one layer. Without the plan file, it's just a guess, though it does happen.

When you are on the layout page, go to the "Display Options" box up top, open it, and uncheck "Layout Box Labels" and that should take care of it.

My thought is that it depends on what type of cabinet you are using. If it's a traditional overlay front w/a framed box, then the doors are usually recessed in from the sides. If it's full overlay, then the doors go right to the outside of the box. For the other fixtures you mentioned, if you know the manufacturer and/or have access to their specs, that should guide you as to what you may or not need for space.

Thank you Eric That is good information to have.

I suppose you could just expand on the label you created by manually entering text under the widow size in the label box such as "header @ 80" above subfloor" or something like that. If you need to change the height for a specific window, change the text for that one only and the rest will have the default you set up.

Try the bonus catalogs under specialty doors. You can purchase additional catalogs there and that may work for you.

You can take the directional arrow when you click on the item and rotate it so the label moves to the top or either side of it. You can also open the label of the item, go to "specify label" and hit the enter key to insert more spaces should you ever need to do that as well.

Sorry Sandra, I wasn't sure what it had. I started with Architectural and after a week I knew it wasn't "flexible" enough to do what I was going to need to do. Well worth the money to go to Pro if you plan to do a lot.of design.

Go to your defaults and check your dimensions tab and change the "locate objects" to center instead of sides.

Did you look?

Try making it from a straight railing and make it panels instead of balusters. Maybe spend some more time with your reference manual as well.

Look at the bonus catalogs

I didn't see an attached plan, yet check what the materials are for the lights themselves in the item's settings. It's one of those things that started in the 2020 release where they didn't always default on, even with the setting be told to do so. When you open the materials, go to the "bulb" and make sure it's set with "lighting white" or whichever one you want to use. When it's been changed, it should then show.