Rookie65

If Architectural has manual roofs, that's what you'd use. A lot of information on it in the reference manual or the "help" function in the program

Create a marquee box around it and delete. Check the floor below too to check the framing is gone too. Or just delete one of the handrail sections and it unbuilds.

Nothing I had to work on. I do it often and it becomes second nature. Just logically think through what you're trying to accomplish and it will come to you

Set the second floor ceiling height to maybe 1-1/2", for the height of a single sill plate.Then rebuild the roof, checking "ignore 2nd floor" on the roof DBX. Turn of "auto rebuild roof" and change the 2nd level ceiling height to what you want it to be and the walls won't come through the roof. You may need to adjust the roof start by the "transform/replicate" tool to get the rafter cuts to start at the sill plate you added

Do you have "Auto rebuild roofs" turned on?

What happens if you use the "break wall" tool on either side of the posts?

Are you flush framing the joists to the beam, or setting the joists over the beam? Either way, you can move the deck framing supports how you want to . You put the edge of the post even with the outside of the beam. You can run the post to the top of the joist height. If you are flush framing, move the beam to the outside edge of the joist framing, then open the setting and move it up the depth of the joist

Do you have rim joists turned on in your display for that view?

I have to do "solar ready" areas for house plans. What I do is take the roofs from the various floors and raise them all up to the attic level. Put all of the items you need to show in the attic. There you can make notes as well. Then, hide the walls and all you will be left with is the roof outlines and the other attic items you want. Also, update your signature to the version you are using, as yes, it does make a difference in what options are available to you.

That is for headers, so it's in linear feet. Don't know how you see square feet?

house wrap

What version and year of the software did you do your design with?

If you can hang in for another few months, upgrade once and go to HDP 2024 when it comes out. I have not had any major issues with 2023. A couple of little things that disappeared from 2022 to 2023, such as when you are building a deck, if you move the carrying beam to the front, raise it flush to the joists, and marked it bearing, it used to trim the other joists to be flush with the beam. So now I just delete the ones that are too long, then transform/replicate to get them all to the correct length.

You can draw the exterior walls so it encloses the 1,000 sf. Maybe 25' x 40' as simple math to start? Not sure what you mean by "how or can I put in 1000 square feet and get the exterior measurement so I can have something to work within?" Another thing that will help is to put in your signature the version of Home Designer you are using and the year. I am pretty sure "Solver" will post his usual list of items to help you.

If you do it with a soffit, you can add the chair rail on the soffit. If you need the tile on all of the walls, then eliminate it from the wall covering you have. Then add the moulding itself at the height needed on just the one wall you want it on by using a thin soffit with a moulding. .

Try eliminating the wall covering on all of the walls. Then on the one wall that needs it, cover it with a soffit set to the thickness of the tile and put your chair rail on top of that.

Try making it a 2nd floor with a rough ceiling height of 1-1/2". That will allow for a perimeter nailer for the rafters. Turn off auto rebuild roof, raise the ceiling to what you need. Then you should be able to build your auto stairwell. That will put railings around the opening.

I think what Jo_Ann means is to set the top elevation of the grade to the distance below the 1st floor subfloor. Then you can adjust it up or down from there to match your own needs

Start with the house. Probably set your default measurements for drawing from interior wall to interior wall. It'll be easier to transfer the measurements to the plan.

When I run into something like that, I will make the soffit smaller by whatever the thickness is of the material you want it to be in each direction. Then copy the soffit, move it along the axis you need to, then change that soffit to the material you desire.

You should probably upgrade to Pro 2023. I believe this was the first version to have the multiple layout page option.

Ah, I see. Stuff like that may be best drawn manually on the section detail you will include with the plan. Especially since floor 0 can't be edited for items below. Unless you tried using the existing concrete floor, change it's thickness to what you need for your material, then in the floor finish, make that the thickness of your concrete floor? Even just a polyline with some type of fill pattern and a notation will suffice. Most of the time, the materials list created by HD is not accurate enough to bid from. Usually much better off having the people bid from the plan. As long as the material is noted in the section, they should be able to pick it up

Either try to post your plan, or take a look through the reference manual. With just images, it's impossible to see what your settings are that may be doing this.

In that view, go to the top toolbar and look for the "house" icon next to the mouse orbit tool. There you can toggle shadows on and off too.

It's much simpler than trying to find someone to give you the plan in X14. The structure will give you the joist and subfloor. When you open up the room, there is another layer built in that you can adjust the thickness of to give you the finished floor. It is right above what you have highlighted at the 12-5/8" dimension. The default is 3/4" for wood flooring, etc. You can change it to whatever thickness you need, whether 1/2" for tile, 3/8" for engineered flooring, etc To look at it in section will give you the layers of framing, subfloor and finished floor