MCCCcc

Members
  • Content Count

    10
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About MCCCcc

  • Rank
    Member
  1. As part of a bathroom remodeling project, I have used a niche to create a tiled shelf space. Part of the design is to divide the niche with metal or glass shelves within the niche. How can the niche be divided to show a shelf of 3/8" thick shelves or have a shelf inserted into it? I attempted to use multiple niches stacked together, but they do not group close enough to create the 3/8" shelf. The niche does not have casing, so wall tile comes up to the edge and will be wrapped into the niche sides and back. The smallest abutment was 1 1/2" thick. See attached picture. I
  2. Dragging the height to 3" worked!! Thank you. Now the tiled foot rest niche looks too deep, less desirable and a bear to tile and grout. The illustration was very helpful in depicting how it would look and function. The boss decided that 6" x 6" is better, but just the same I learned a new method of modifying the niche.
  3. Thanks for the suggestion to fill it in, but how? Michael Colford Michael Colford Consulting and Contracting HomeDesigner Pro 2019 2013 MacBook Pro
  4. As part of a full bathroom remodeling I have added several niches to accommodate various shower uses. Two of three niches are shelves for shampoo, conditioner, soap, etc. The third is a rather useful idea for the women of the household; a foot rest for shaving legs and storing the razor (my brilliant daughter's idea). The size is small and will have a 3"x6" subway tile as its back. The dimensions of the niche are 6 1/8" wide, 3 1/8" tall and 3 1/2" deep. The smallest niche I can draw is 6" x 6". I'm okay with the width, but the height is too big. There is no indication on the limitation o
  5. Here is what I am seeing on HD Pro 2016 on my computer. https://youtu.be/VbeLjAjJ5nc
  6. Thank David you for reviewing my plan and providing the video feedback on settings to make objects look more realistic. It looks beautiful on your computer; the way I want it to look. I updated the video driver two days ago and went from a black rendering to a much brighter one, but still had grays on the wood and carpet. Looks like I need to play with the setting on my video card to improve the rendering. By the way, may computer is a laptop that is 9 years old running Windows 7. Still works like a champ as I maximized the technology when I purchased it to give me longevity on the perfo
  7. Thank you for sharing the video instruction. I am a very occasional user that has not used HD Pro for at least a year and have never posted here before. Here is the backed up plan compressed as a zip file: Render_Issue.zip
  8. MCCCcc

    Aligning Footings

    As an added note, include the exterior foam layer in the main layer so the upper walls extend over the foam, if that is how you intend to build the structure.
  9. MCCCcc

    Aligning Footings

    Trick the footing into thinking the wall is 22" thick by adding a 4" exterior layer of air insulation on the wall type.This puts the center of the wall in the middle of the concrete. In the wall type definition the line for the air insulation can be changed to be white and not visible on the floorplan. In the crossectional and orthographic views the air gap is not shown on the outside of the exterior foam.
  10. Using HomeDesigner Pro 2016. I've been working through issues on my PC to get better 3D rendering for my client. Solved a very dark rendering issue by updating the video card driver, but still getting wood and carpet textures looking grey. My expectation is the color and texture should be close to the library browser views. The wood materials are both form the HD Core Catalog under Materials, Flooring, Wood, Oak and Materials, Wood, Oak. The same issue exists for the carpet which is a Mohawk, carpet, Wunda Weve, 9665 Timeless Design - 876 Peat Moss. I've added lights in the room and adjuste