Rookie65

If you go to the bonus catalogs, under millwork, there's a catalog for purchase called Handrails No01 fittings. In there are several styles of handrails which you can select from. Then follow Solver's direction to apply it to the handrail.

Do you have roof trusses turned on in that camera view? Each camera has the option to turn items on and off

Returns

Probably best to contact customer service tech support directly during their business hours.

If they are different pitches, then yes, you would want Pro to draw them manually. Also, please post questions in "Q&A", so more people will see them. And it's helpful for you to fill out your signature.so people always know what program/year you are using. Click on your profile, then account settings, then signature. Make sure you check for it to display.

Looks to me that they are showing on the door shown at the far right

"Floor finish" means the thickness of the finished floor material. The structure would be where you'd drop it like a garage or deck. Unless your wording is incorrect?

Change it to dimension from surface and not wall dimension layer, if Architectural lets you set dimensions that way

I have my specs in a word document and copy and paste what I need into a text box for each plan. For my window and door schedule, I have an XL spreadsheet master that I change for each project. For a title page, you can save a layout page and then change it for each project. It is not tedious and you can keep each as a master sheet to pull from

I don't know all of Suite's limitations, yet depending on which way the furring is going to run, you could likely do it with soffits, or custom backsplashes. Put the 1st one where it needs to be against the wall and then define the size (likely 1"x3"). Then "transform/replicate" the right dimension in the right direction. Make the material fir framing so it looks like wood.

We all have our way to do things.

Then how do you have a tray ceiling, as they are usually a different height?

If the ceilings are different heights, try using room dividers to enclose the higher ceiling room and change the height of the new room

Open the wall type, click on the siding, then adjust it

Open up the dialog box and you will see the spacing. Then adjust it

Yes, you can do that. Yet I think it helps if you can reference a manufacturer that makes the product so you don't present something made up that may not actually be available. As not all of a manufacturers products are available in all areas.

Have you downloaded the certainteed catalog? If so, go to siding>vertical >8" board and batten. Then edit the spacing to 12" or whatever it is. Make sure the texture changed too. Then paint it the color you need it to be

The program default is 1st floor for level 1. Try to fix that before getting wrapped up in the other stuff. Probably wouldn't hurt to spend time reading the reference manual

The 1st floor should be level 1. The basement would be level 0.

Can't do that that I know of. They're either there or not. What are the pdf's of, section details, floor plans, etc?

Depending on what you are doing with the PDF, you can move it along an axis, typically "X", a number of inches so it's out of the way. Then you can move it back if you need to trace another part of it, etc. That's how I understand your question.

I think I get it. Correct terminology is important so people can follow along. And flat-angled is an oxymoron

From what I can tell Jo-Ann, it's the lower pitched roofs on either side of the gable he has over the entryway? This will be best done with manual roofs. Delete the "roof over room" for the front porch, then auto rebuild the roof so it just covers the house. Then build the rest of the roof manually and DON'T turn "auto rebuild roofs" back on.

You'll get more responses if you post questions under the "Q&A" tab. Also, please create a signature with the version and year program you are using. It will provide the information people need to better help.

I know that