Rookie65

Can't do that that I know of. They're either there or not. What are the pdf's of, section details, floor plans, etc?

Depending on what you are doing with the PDF, you can move it along an axis, typically "X", a number of inches so it's out of the way. Then you can move it back if you need to trace another part of it, etc. That's how I understand your question.

I think I get it. Correct terminology is important so people can follow along. And flat-angled is an oxymoron

From what I can tell Jo-Ann, it's the lower pitched roofs on either side of the gable he has over the entryway? This will be best done with manual roofs. Delete the "roof over room" for the front porch, then auto rebuild the roof so it just covers the house. Then build the rest of the roof manually and DON'T turn "auto rebuild roofs" back on.

You'll get more responses if you post questions under the "Q&A" tab. Also, please create a signature with the version and year program you are using. It will provide the information people need to better help.

I know that

What program are you using? If you're using Chief Architect, then you are in the wrong forum. This is for the Home Designer product lines, which don't have layers for electrical. https://chieftalk.chiefarchitect.com/

Why don't you just click the wall and drag the left wall back to the vertical wall?

What version of Home Designer and the year do you have? That information is important before anyone can begin to help you. If you have Pro, manual roofs are the tool to read up on.

What version of home designer do you have? You'll likely want Pro for manual roofs.

Wasn't sure since I don't use them, so I suggested the closed box too

Posts are in the general framing box next to the floor framing box in the top row. It looks like 4-5 vertical lines. Or try looking at your reference manual. You'll see posts, posts with footings, etc. Or just search for "closed", take that shape and make it the depth, width, height, and material it needs to be. Very simple

Is the wall built as a railing? You could make the newel posts smaller, then use a post in the framing box, make it the size of what it needs to be and set the height to reach the bottom of the beam. Then take the center of the new post and align it in the center "x" of the railing newel

No, stile, it's the vertical part of the panel

When you open the item, you can change the stile and rail sizes. See the panel and bottom width size near the bottom of what you have open. Don't forget to adjust the hardware backset.

Which product of the 2024 version, Home Designer Pro, Suite, Architectural? Is it an upgrade, or new install? When you go to your library, you should see the option to "download core content." Maybe a look in your reference manual will help guide you better, since you will know what steps you've taken

What version and year of the program are you using? Did you download your core catalogs?

Your main living floor should be at "0". Then set your patio and porches at a negative number and that should drop them down. You can always check your reference manual or the help tab that is on every screen so you don't have to wait for someone to reply

Try copy and paste the other floors individually maybe?

Set a bunch of elevation lines for the low height and call them "0". Then a bunch for the higher elevation. (+ how much the difference should be). Keep a space between the high and low for the distance you want to have sloped. Rebuild terrain and it should take care of it. The reasons for having a bunch at the same elevation on each side is to keep those areas flat. It's not too hard once you get an understanding of how it's programmed to work.

Go to edit area>all floors. Copy and paste it. It's in your reference manual too

Did you look at edit>default>camera tools>Perspective full overview>plan display? Or you could even try looking through your reference manual

Try searching the core library for pools

You'll be able to make those with manual roofs, yet Architectural currently does not have that feature

Typically you want to keep dimensions to full feet measurements if possible, and to a 1/4" for your fractions for interior walls. Ideally you want to have no fractions for your exterior walls so it makes it easier to set foundation walls square. Likely framers will round off odd looking fractions anyway, yet to show them on the plan that way likely won't win you too many friends. That's my 2 cents anyway.