Rookie65

Yes. I think the 1" OH is there in case they are going to be used for an island. That way the OH will show, and then people won't have to add it. If you look at your plan when you draw it, once the cabinet is against a wall, the OH disappears anyway and becomes a moot point.

Without seeing what you are thinking of, would a lower than usual height base cabinet for the bottom seat, and then an arched opening above the cabinet work? Raise the opening's sill to the top of the cabinet and then go from there?

Try breaking the roof edge and pulling it to the sides of the dormer

I didn't look at the pdf, yet if it's near a manual roof, the roof could be pulled into the wall too far and cut the siding off? If you can just post an image, it'll be easier to see . What you're seeing is the housewrap, which is the layer just behind the siding

Did you look in the core library?

There are some bonus and manufacturers catalogs that have arched doors, yet the styles are limited

Check options section for the door

Do it with a sloped soffit and play around with the dimensions (width, height, length) to get the size you want. It is very simple if you understand how the tool works. Plus you can change the material to what you want it to be. You won't get your trapezoid shape, yet you can bury the square part behind the items it butts to so it shows in display correctly.

I often use closed and wedge geometric shapes

Go room by room and turn them on. I've had that happen before and that's how to fix it

Again, the program will give you the volume, whether you make the attic living space or do as Eric mentioned and add the attic as an additional floor with the roof moved to that level. You can get the volume for any room by opening up the dbx and reading it. Then add all rooms up for your total.

Do you want the square feet, or the volume of the attic? Square feet is width x depth, which the plan will tell you and nothing gets divided by 2. If you need the volume in cubic feet, click the room, look at the drop down box and it will show you that amount too.

Read it again and apply it to the attic area

If you have the room defined, go to the drop down box and select "Include in living area" and that should do it, as long as the perimeter walls allow for room definition

No. They are static objects.

There is a built up baseboard in the Windsor One catalog that is very similar to what is trying to be done here

What I mean is take the wall that is on the house inside the room that you are drawing. If you make the depth of it less than the thickness of the exterior wall that runs through it now, the framing will go away. If it was built as an interior 4 when constructed, and the drywall is aligned on the inside of the house, the framing will go away.

Lower the floor the 14" you need. Also, what is the wall type of the existing house where those 2 rooms meet? I do get some framing showing when it's a 2x6 wall, yet if it's a 2x4 and flush w/the inside, it goes away. Or create a wall just under the size of the exterior wall

Is this closer to what you want? Use Room Type "Patio", change room name to Storage room" Under the "Structure > Floor Tab", check Floor supplied by the foundation room below Monolithic slab foundation Build foundation below

Yes, I saw/see that, which is why I asked why the room was named as "Open Below" when it doesn't seem to be.

Without seeing the plan and your settings, my thought is why is that room "open below" if it looks like it has a floor? You could possibly just lower the floor of that room by whatever distance below the house floor that it is?

If you can find a base cap that works, you can add to the default one you're using and edit it as needed. You will probably have to extend the profile to come out from the wall so it shows. Some time reading the reference manual or help menu ought to walk you through it

Go to the bonus catalogs under Millwork. Download the Windsor One catalog. It may have what you want

Try going to the materials tab for the wall and change the wall cap to drywall. Or make the half wall from a soffit

Or try it with deck railings. Change the newel posts to what you want for size, rail style of post to beam, open, eliminate the railings, and that should get you close. You can change the materials to what you want. You'll probably want a framing/footing plan, and soffits won't give you that information. You can always check your reference manual to find things out so you aren't waiting for people to respond. I don't know what Suite has for limitations, yet if you are thinking of designing seriously, you should look at upgrading to Pro.