Rookie65

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Everything posted by Rookie65

  1. You can try this link as a guide and modify to the particular room size you may have. It's a great help and simple to use. https://blog.recessedlighting.com/recessed-lighting-calculator/
  2. You should be able to send the .plan file that importing it creates to a layout sheet. From there, print it as a PDF and save on the desktop, then import the PDF into a new plan file, verify the scale, and then trace over the walls, etc. Then you can delete the PDF from the plan file. Or just move it along the X axis a bunch of inches so it's not visible when you go to print your plan file, yet then you don't lose the alignments should you need to change something later..
  3. If you're trying to have the angle of the left window in the peak of the left side, try lowering the height off floor and the top height of the left unit so it drops down to below the ridge.
  4. I agree. What I usually do is start with a valance and make it as thick as the porch or whatever it's going over. Or shape a custom backsplash and make the depth and material to be what the ceiling is. Then "Transform/Replicate" it just a couple of inches and make it the color of what the exterior trim is supposed to be. That gives it a cap while the rest of it is the ceiling material.
  5. Do you mean a double acting, that swings in or out? There is an option in the interior door defaults that can be checked to show it swings in both directions. I don't remember if it is available in HDP 2021. Also, it's better if you post questions in the "Q&A" section. More people are likely to see it there.
  6. I use that often. Place the first ones, then transform/replicate to get the rest of them placed. Can't say I understand the cad box method
  7. See if this helps https://blog.recessedlighting.com/recessed-lighting-calculator/
  8. Try opening the wall, go to structure. There should be an option to extend the wall through the start or the end. I don't remember if that version showed which was the start or end
  9. Go to "File>Import>import drawing (DWG, DXF) and follow the prompts from there. If you need to adjust the scale, follow what I replied with last week.
  10. You have already been told by Chief Architect that you can not create custom layers in HD Suite, nor any of the HD products. Maybe you could create something and save it to your user library, yet a layer for it is not an option. Maybe in Chief Architect Premier, if you're willing to pay for that upgrade?
  11. Try checking "floor under this room" in the structure tab
  12. If you have it as a PDF, import it into your plan. Click on the PDF, then in the bottom tool bar, you'll see a dark blue box w/a red double arrow. Click that button, start the line at a point and move it straight across to the end point of a known or dimensioned spot. Then, it will show you the dimension it read, and you can then adjust that to be what it needs to be. You'll probably want to zoom in as close as you can so you can get a very accurate point marker. You can decide to keep the aspect scale or not. I usually do for a start, then double check it..
  13. Try changing the number of lights vertical. That will fix it for you.
  14. Does Architectural have different lite options, such as craftsman? You can also search many of your questions in the reference manual so you don't have to wait for someone else to guide you
  15. Without seeing the plan, I am just guessing. See if you have a ceiling surface over the deck. Sometimes when a deck is made in Pro 2024, the room will be marked as "unspecified." Check to see that it is a room type of a deck and your structure. That may help
  16. You might have to draw the pipes as poly lines in plan view. Then change the infill to solid and the color you want it to be. Though unless you're printing the plans in color, the colors won't matter, so maybe an infill of 2 different patterns may work better?
  17. Please add the version and year of software you are using to your signature. It helps everyone who may want to help you. Go to your username in the top right corner, click "profile", then on signature. Items can't be made live.
  18. Ok, then the next step is to use the "Terrain Hole" option in the landscape tools on the 1st floor and turn off "hide terrain intersected by buildings"
  19. Did you try rebuilding the terrain? Please add the version and year of software you are using to your signature please. It helps everyone who may want to help you. Go to your username in the top right corner, click "profile", then on signature.
  20. Use an interior wall and change the framing layer to "insulation with studs". Or do what is often done and just notate it on the plan
  21. Should be. Go to your "Dimensions" settings, and see what they are set at. When all else fails, try the reference manual and search the topic.
  22. Sounds like outer surface would make the dimensions the same, yet then you have an overhang to the inside. Do you have the option to make the foundation wider?
  23. Do the math. You have an 8" foundation with a 6" frame wall plus brick above. Try looking at a section view to see how they are lining up over each other.
  24. Without seeing the plan, I am thinking that you may need to adjust the pony wall alignment layer, as brick width is probably the 4-1/2" difference you are getting. Aligning to sheathing layer may fix it.