Rookie65

Try using an angled soffit and see what material you can make it from to look like a cable. Even using a galvanized steel might look ok. Set the bottom to be at the rim joist height and the top height to the height you want it to be to clear the window.

That's one of the drawbacks to the architectural programI believe. There isn't much flexibility. Upgrade to pro and you can adjust the joist heights.

Use a comment.

Which version of the program do you have? The reference manual will be a great help in explaining how to build trusses. Depends on what you mean by "building in detail?"

Since you have the rise/run figured out, make 2 separate stair sections and connect them. The lower can have railings on 2 sides and go up the number of treads until it hits the ceiling. Don't use automatic heights. Then create the second stair section w/railing where you want/don't want it. You can then connect the bottom of the 2nd stair set to the 1st and it will look like a full set of stairs.

For my 2 cents, I would start with the lowest. That will put the footings you have chosen for the deck in the ground. Then the rest should build with just posts connecting to the one below.

You could try a vertical cylinder from the shapes

In the bonus catalogs, there are some wine storage companies that you can download. They might have something you can use in them. I think they're under the specialty tab

With Pro, you can open the door, check the "separate trim and materials on each side" box and change the door and casing colors there. The trim, or jamb, will be changed to whatever material color the exterior is. Hope that helps?

Ok. Post your plan and I am sure Solver will go over it, since he gets involved with most everything that gets posted here.

should be able to go to a perpendicular wall. You can copy them on floor 1 or wherever they are, then go up a floor level and "paste and hold position" Or even spend some time with your reference manual

Click on the windows required holding down the shift key. Then you can copy/paste them where you wish. You will see that as you select them, the outline will include them and the center of the move box will move.

It looks like the protrusion on the left image is a straight wall, while the image on the right shows that area being stepped. So maybe the wall wasn't aligned with the correct walls below?

In Pro 2019, 3 floors could have been the max the program allowed?

It's very random, as manufacturers update at different times. A good habit to get into is checking for updates regularly and updating after you download a new catalog. It's a quick process.

I guess I'm struggling with why you got the program if you didn't intend to learn it? It's an incredible design tool and well worth the investment of time to learn.

Did you see and/or try the reply I put on your other post?

I don't know if Architectural has this, yet if you go to the wall type that you want to show insulation for in 3D, change the "Main Layer" material to "Insulation w/ Studs" (found in the library under "Insulation". That will show pink fiberglass batts between the studs. The issue with doing that is if you need to draw a wall section through that wall, the studs won't show. So depending on what type of drawing you're doing, you may want to change that wall type to the insulation for 3D views, and back to framing for section views. I hope that helps?

Or try this Bonus Catalog Vintage Industrial No.4

If you set the 2 rooms at the needed heights of stem wall, it should take care of itself. Probably in your reference manual too.

You can set the posts to start at the end of the beam if you know what the size of your posts will be. Then you set the posts to start at the halfway dimension of the posts and that will get them flush with the ends. Having the beam sit at the outside edge of the deck is something that I wish was an option. I usually just move it with a point-point move, raise the height whatever the depth of it is, then adjust the posts and footings to fit under it.

depends on the version you have, yet if you go to the room, select materials>floor finish>plan materials>edit, you will see "pattern" & "texture on the left side. Some will allow you to change the angle in pattern, yet if not, check texture and often the angle is there. Of course, reading the reference manual will help you answer a lot of questions for yourself, without having to wait for someone to respond.

Can you use the existing house wall as part of the garage? If so, create a new wall type for just the combined wall and then start the new garage wall at the back corner. Depending on where you live, the garage side will need fire separation, so maybe the "fire 4" or 6 that is in the wall types will work?

You can turn terrain perimeter on or off in the "display" options. Make sure you have it on floor 1

You only have what's available in the Home Designer bonus libraries and SSA kitchen cabinet manufacturers are not one of them. Though you can set the default cabinet styles to something close in the defaults.