Rookie65

You have to manually place them

The library search has been updated. Type in your word and then hit "enter." Depending on your settings, that should bring it up. Or check the manual, as there are several "upgrades" which are frustrating and take a little bit to decipher.

Go to the infill library and select wood grain for 1 and change the size. Number 2 is fill style angle hatch right in the default menu

You could also simply add up the layer thicknesses you have/want and see if it adds up to the total thickness of what your new wall type shows when you open up the detail

Are you talking about corner boards? There is a default setting you can change to be what you need. If the color isn't available in the catalog, often if you can get the color you want from a picture off of the product's website, You can import that and create the item to have that color to it. I suggest reading the reference manual on the steps to do that and about the corner trim, if that's what you need. Plus anything else you have questions on. Often going there first will save you from having to wait for someone to reply to your inquiry. For the bottom board, often referred to as "water table, depending on geographic your region", you can change the walls to have a "wall covering", and determine the location of it. What I often do in that case is take the James Hardie trim board in Arctic white, then paint it the color I want it to be. Then when you add the board to the other walls, you can select the painted arctic white coard to be the material. Just make sure you put it on the exterior, as it defaults to interior

How about submitting a case to tech support? Attach your plan and let them look at it. They'll give you a definitive answer.

Those look like temporary points and can be deleted by clearing temporary points in its drop down box. Not knowing which version program you are using, it may be something else like roof intersection points.

Please post your questions under the "Q&A" tab, as not everyone checks this regularly. Once you repost there, then you can delete this. Often posting the plan will help as well. Keep it under the size limit and it will post and someone can try to look at it. What happens if you make your attic wall the same wall type as the rest of that wall? Sometimes that "out of alignment" check will come up if you may be using a 2x4 attic wall over a 2x6 exterior wall. Sometimes you just need to ignore it and align it manually if the walls are 2 different thicknesses

Did you try the "break" tool between the dormers and then drag both sides in the direction they need to go?

See if you have in the DBX of the units the framing or rough opening showing a jack stud or what the rough opening is. You may need to delete the stud or set the RO to "0" to put the frames together. Also eliminate the casing and then do the perimeter in soffits of the casing profile. Maybe that will help?

In real life applications, mulling windows to door jambs is not advisable. Usually a double stud pocket should be between them. That way, you aren't trying to shim a door to be level against the jamb of a window, as that can then put the window frame out of square. Plus with the longer screws used to secure the door, it may end up going too far into the window frame.

There are 2 there that have keypads. Look again

Depending on what program you have, which is important to note, look at the icons for railing, then the drop downs for curved deck railing. That should get you started.

Did you try looking at the bonus catalogs? Always a good place to start

Often even if you change the defaults, you will see a message that says you will need to change individual roof planes. Open each roof and see what the spacing shows there and change as needed.

Try setting your manual dimensions to dimension from surfaces to the center of fixtures. That may solve it.

It could also be that a round railing is the default in the style plan you chose to start with. If you don't pick a style and just start your plan, likely everything will be in the default material, which will give you square rails and balusters.

You can copy it on the floor it's on, then go to another floor and "paste-hold position" and it'll put it the same spot it was. Then you can delete the 1st one

Nothing that I have seen. Sometimes you just have to hit "tab" and move on to the next object

You will find a lot of great product options and catalogs in there. Strongly suggest that you spend some time reading the instruction manual and using the on-screen "help" tab at the top of each window

You can check your framing defaults to see if you have auto rebuild walls checked or not. That is often the culprit

You could also download some of the bonus catalogs that are stone based, and change the material to one of the styles you like.

Open the door specification box, and under options, check "separate trim and materials on each side". Change the exterior to match the interior casing if needed. Then you can paint the door, trim and casing for the desired side. I don't believe you can set an interior door as an exterior, as the door defaults by the wall type it's put into..

My thought is since the niche will only be inset partially, the support framing could be installed on the flat edge, and the under window support could be plywood on top of those supports. The nailing flange would be installed to those studs on the outside and nothing would be seen on the inside since drywall and the mirror surface would fill in the inset area.

Look under "General framing" and also make sure "deck post footings" are turned on in your display options