Jo_Ann

You are not offering a "Tip or Technique", you are asking for help with your project. This question belongs in the "Q&A" forum category. Arched soffit: Extra thick wall with an arched doorway. Ceiling soffit for a light: Divider wall "room" with added ceiling height.

Most likely it is not a program glitch. More likely it is an operator glitch. You need to be more specific about what you are trying to achieve, and then really specific about how you went about changing the material.

I did a more simple version of the large dormer, (created with Architectural 2018) this time with the default ceiling height of 95 5/8", and it looks like pic 1 (with auto roof turned on). When opened with Pro 2018 (trial) it still looks the same as pic 1 (auto-roof still turned on). When opened with Pro 2019 (auto-roof on) it looks like pic 2. WHY?? I know that it is easy to fix the roof planes with Pro's manual roof. Then open the smaller dormers dbx, click 'OK' and they magically reappear, too. But none of this should be necessary. I tried multiple settings to get this roof to auto build, without success. Why is Pro 2019 not reading directives from a plan created in a 2018 version correctly? Eric, DJP, anyone have an answer? I'm stumped. BalsamKnoll large dormer.plan

I got this far, with this model created in Architectural 2018 (traced over your model opened with Pro 2019 trial). This was the only way to save a plan that I could upload. The dimensions are very close, so maybe this plan will help you. I was unable to raise the large dormer ceiling height to 95 5/8" without making the roof go wacky, but at least the dormer windows are able to be set at the standard floor to ceiling height of 80". Porch Note: The south wall of the screened porch is set at 7°, while the north wall had to remain set at 11° to make the gable look correct in my version (HDA2018). Strange. When opened in the trial Pro 2019, the gable looks wacky and the north porch wall needs to agree with the south porch wall (7°)? Pro 2019 does not seem to follow directives made in plans created in earlier software versions. I don't know if HDA2019 will also display that way. If you plan to use this software for your business, then you should upgrade to Pro. The extra expense and the time taken to learn how to use it, will be compensated by the time NOT spent in frustration. A hefty upgrade rebate will compensate for the dollars that you spent on Architectural, if taken before the rebate expires. BalsamKnoll traced plan.plan

Why didn't you say in the beginning that it was the bump out that you didn't want? Easy to fix with Pro. First remove the roof returns, then turn OFF "auto build roof". Move the 1st floor wall back in line with the rest of the wall. Move the 2nd floor wall back also, and right click to select "align with wall below" (if that option shows up). Now grab the right and left roof overhang (dashed green lines) and drag them out to align with gambrel overhang, OR grab the gambrel overhangs and drag them back to align with the far left/right overhangs (your choice). The area circled then needs attention. Where the gambrel roof meets the gutter eave, each roof edge needs to have a polyline break added so that you can bend and manipulate the 2 edges to over-lap as shown. It just takes a little bit of fiddling.

How to do an INSIDE stair wrap has bugged me for a long time. A reference guide article addresses an OUTSIDE stair wrap, but there is nothing about an INSIDE stair wrap. There is nothing in the knowledge base or video tutorials about stair wraps. I finally figured it out, and the way inside stair wraps need to touch each other is different from outside stair wraps. I hope the image with the stairs set as 2 different colors, clarifies better how to put them together.

There is a sneaky way, to set up a default wall with the siding of your choice. Draw an exterior wall, open it, and change the siding material via the material tab. Change the thickness of the wall, and close the dbx. Reopen the wall, and look in the drop-down wall type selection. You should see a new additional wall name in there (6_2 or 6_7 or something like that). At this time, if you want to change the wall back to the original thickness, you can do so. When you re-open the wall again, there will be another new wall listed in the drop-down (with the original thickness). You can then open the default settings and choose the wall (that has the siding that you selected), and set it as the default exterior wall. The new wall in the drop-down wall types will only exist in this particular plan. If you have already drawn your walls in the plan and altered the siding on each wall, the default wall setting will most likely not prevail. By the way, Architectural offers many many more benefits compared to Suite. If you have used the software repeatedly (as you say) then you should check out the upgrade rebate. Download the free trial and see for yourself.

DenTheMen: You are not offering a Tip or Technique, which is what this category forum is meant for. You are asking a question (for help), and help questions belong in the Q & A category forum. Please post questions over there.

You need to fix the circular wall, and then (like solver said) you need to build the 2nd floor. That may present some new problems.

Compare the 2 floor plan images you posted. You changed the circular wall. You would have to ask the technical people on a support ticket for that answer. It is what it is.

Knowing that the extremely angled walls caused a roof error code on the small building, do you not see what you changed on this house plan revision?

I thought that moving the small building away from the house would resolve the issue, but evidently the roof on the small building IS the problem. Reduce the depth of the overhang on all the walls of that building, and the error goes away. The house roof rebuilt with no issues, so you must have done something else.

ICONDEV, There is so MUCH that you can do to improve your 3d viewing. Examples: The deck fireplace. The board & batten barn siding. The interior fireplace...instead of saying corner fireplace/no hearth/beam mantle, make your own fireplace from scratch. Start experimenting!

Eric, That is a really good tip, and works better. ICONDEV, right click the wall section and select 'reverse layers'.

After placing the wall breaks: Highlight the section, zoom in, and slightly off-set the section from the rest of the rail. Then apply the changes.

You should have started a new topic of your own for your question about the roof. The east exterior wall of the house is set as high shed/gable. Uncheck that. The north exterior wall of the house is also set as high shed/gable. Uncheck that and put a check in "gable". Your 2 closets next to the north house wall (in the kitchen) are causing the problem. Raise their ceiling heights to match the kitchen. When you are certain that you will no longer need to rebuild the roof, turn off "auto build roof" and reset the desired ceiling heights in both closets.

You have TERRAIN in your garage. Your terrain has been built on floor 2. Delete it, and rebuild on floor 1. Open the terrain dbx, uncheck "automatic" and set the height to 26". In the garage, draw a room divider wall, aligned with the exterior wall on the 2nd floor. Open the front part of the garage "room", and lower the finished ceiling to 115 5/8". After the roof is correct (and never needing to rebuild again), you can delete the invisible wall. Sorry DJP.

If you are very careful about wall placement, you will still have room for a pickup truck on that side garage of the garage, and also a boot-bench inside the entry.

I'm sure you are probably cringing at the thought of losing space in the guest bedroom, but.... this compromise doesn't lose much, and it is a better scenario.

I have to say it.... Your bathroom door opens into the kitchen/dining area. YIKES.

Good solution Eric! It will be necessary for him to delete the auto dormer and manually build the dormer.

Porch roof baseline set at 119.5". Porch roof ridge height set at 154.5". You will have to move the dormer back about 2.5' and change the windows to 36" height, 36" from the floor.

If you lower the baseline of the porch roof, you can get a 3" pitch.

If you are manually doing the porch roof, the highest pitch I could get was 1.5", because of the dormer position. The pergola certainly eliminates snow load worries!