Rookie65

My thought is since the niche will only be inset partially, the support framing could be installed on the flat edge, and the under window support could be plywood on top of those supports. The nailing flange would be installed to those studs on the outside and nothing would be seen on the inside since drywall and the mirror surface would fill in the inset area.

Look under "General framing" and also make sure "deck post footings" are turned on in your display options

Did you try moving the footings in plan view? Another option may be to put the post spacing at a dimension that is bigger than the deck. That will give you just the end posts. Then use the "post with footing" item and run the post from the ground up to the ceiling beam and make the ceiling beam out of a soffit or closed box.

I wonder if using a niche may work? Eliminate the casing and set the backing as the mirror. You can set the depth to what you need. Plus it doesn't go to the outside, so the exterior wouldn't be changed.

Maybe check to see if your printer setting is reducing the page to fit

If the cabinets are solid doors, try putting 2 - 6" deep ones back to back. If the doors are glass, then maybe an "open front and back" block with glass doors at each end? Try some creativity when things are not readily available as you'd like.

David, He wants to put doors on both sides of a wall cabinet that is going over peninsula or island cabinets. Not against a wall, it will be in the middle of the room.

Without the plan to look at, it's hard to tell what has happened. Do you have an extra exterior wall just inside the 2nd floor that isn't aligned? Or a "polyline created in 3D" or whatever the message says?

If Architectural has manual roofs, that's what you'd use. A lot of information on it in the reference manual or the "help" function in the program

Create a marquee box around it and delete. Check the floor below too to check the framing is gone too. Or just delete one of the handrail sections and it unbuilds.

Nothing I had to work on. I do it often and it becomes second nature. Just logically think through what you're trying to accomplish and it will come to you

Set the second floor ceiling height to maybe 1-1/2", for the height of a single sill plate.Then rebuild the roof, checking "ignore 2nd floor" on the roof DBX. Turn of "auto rebuild roof" and change the 2nd level ceiling height to what you want it to be and the walls won't come through the roof. You may need to adjust the roof start by the "transform/replicate" tool to get the rafter cuts to start at the sill plate you added

Do you have "Auto rebuild roofs" turned on?

What happens if you use the "break wall" tool on either side of the posts?

Are you flush framing the joists to the beam, or setting the joists over the beam? Either way, you can move the deck framing supports how you want to . You put the edge of the post even with the outside of the beam. You can run the post to the top of the joist height. If you are flush framing, move the beam to the outside edge of the joist framing, then open the setting and move it up the depth of the joist

Do you have rim joists turned on in your display for that view?

I have to do "solar ready" areas for house plans. What I do is take the roofs from the various floors and raise them all up to the attic level. Put all of the items you need to show in the attic. There you can make notes as well. Then, hide the walls and all you will be left with is the roof outlines and the other attic items you want. Also, update your signature to the version you are using, as yes, it does make a difference in what options are available to you.

That is for headers, so it's in linear feet. Don't know how you see square feet?

house wrap

What version and year of the software did you do your design with?

If you can hang in for another few months, upgrade once and go to HDP 2024 when it comes out. I have not had any major issues with 2023. A couple of little things that disappeared from 2022 to 2023, such as when you are building a deck, if you move the carrying beam to the front, raise it flush to the joists, and marked it bearing, it used to trim the other joists to be flush with the beam. So now I just delete the ones that are too long, then transform/replicate to get them all to the correct length.

You can draw the exterior walls so it encloses the 1,000 sf. Maybe 25' x 40' as simple math to start? Not sure what you mean by "how or can I put in 1000 square feet and get the exterior measurement so I can have something to work within?" Another thing that will help is to put in your signature the version of Home Designer you are using and the year. I am pretty sure "Solver" will post his usual list of items to help you.

If you do it with a soffit, you can add the chair rail on the soffit. If you need the tile on all of the walls, then eliminate it from the wall covering you have. Then add the moulding itself at the height needed on just the one wall you want it on by using a thin soffit with a moulding. .

Try eliminating the wall covering on all of the walls. Then on the one wall that needs it, cover it with a soffit set to the thickness of the tile and put your chair rail on top of that.

Try making it a 2nd floor with a rough ceiling height of 1-1/2". That will allow for a perimeter nailer for the rafters. Turn off auto rebuild roof, raise the ceiling to what you need. Then you should be able to build your auto stairwell. That will put railings around the opening.