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Everything posted by solver
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I am able to add a window to all gables. The 1st floor front wall of the house is set to Balloon Through Ceiling Above, and that setting should be unchecked. When you place a window that does not fully show on the exterior, you usually have 2 walls in the same space, and one needs to be removed. A general tip -- the more you can get the software to do things automatically, the better (cleaner) the model will be.
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Corner boards. Delete them all. Auto place them on floor 1. Select each one and drag the top up, and/or the bottom down as needed. I think Pro has Through Wall At Start and Through Wall At End. If so, read up on them, and on turning on Start and End indicators. These are wall settings that might help with #1. You should rethink the foundation -- not structurally, but how it's modeled. It's best to not manually adjust walls by dragging the top or bottom. I've attached a plan done quickly, but you will be able to see what I did. Starting with an auto built foundation. Set garage height and basement wall height then build foundation. Drag a wall across where the back part of the house is lower -- this could be a room divider, I just dragged a foundation wall across. Increase the Stem Wall height to lower the footing in that newly formed foundation room. Also, your pony walls need to align to the main layer, not the outside layer. I'm sure the siding laps over a bit. Grit_10_auto_save (eric).zip
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Chief lets you create custom labels. Here I replaced the default label with the available width attribute. This could be formatted in a variety of ways, similar to the 2 dimensions shown, and a B could also be added.
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Upgrade to Chief.
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Pictures would help. Posting your plan file could also help. The simple answer is, you delete or modify the errant wall.
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For questions like this, please post the plan. Or get better at showing what's wrong When you use manual roof planes, you are responsible for their shape. This is what they should look like. If they don't, reshape them, then use the Join tool to join them. The ridge and valley both need to be joined. You may also need to draw in your own ceiling planes to make the interior correct. They draw just like a roof plane and may be used for a variety of things. It's generally best to start with auto roofs, then make manual changes as required. It's what almost everyone using Chief does.
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What's wrong with the image I posted -- just generally? Are you trying for this?
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I just stuck in some numbers to get the foundation to build. You will need to insert your own. Leave room specific settings as the defaults.
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Questions like this need at a minimum, multiple images showing settings and 3D views of the house. Or, just post the plan file. It's also helpful to break up your narrative with an occasional blank line. Makes it easier to read and understand
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Use 2 landings.
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- landing
- splitting stairs
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(and 2 more)
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I don't know, but imagine you would do as you would for any other item from the 3D Warehouse. Have you tried it? Since you are using an older version of the software, newer symbols may not work. Could you link to the crown?
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Have you reviewed this article? https://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/article/KB-00358/automatically-building-a-one-and-a-half-story-roof.html Do you understand these two suggestions?
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Just to be clear, you need 2 floors, not one floor and an attic. An Attic is a special floor (and room) type, reserved for attic space, not living space. If you have living space on the 2nd floor -- even if you think of it as being in the attic, you need a 2nd floor.
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The general recommendation for the Chief Architect products is an Nvidia gaming card. Home Designer products are similar. If this were 2D CAD only, I believe the Quadro card would be preferred, but the gaming card helps the 3D.
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No. They need to be on a unique layer and Home Designer lacks that ability. I'd create a separate plan as described in option 2 and copy them there. Copy them back as needed.
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Here are two ways. Draw a line from the lot line towards the setback -- length is not important. Make the line perpendicular to the lot line. Open the line and set the length. Use Point to Point Move to move the setback line to the end of the perpendicular line. Delete the perpendicular line. or Create a new plan with a terrain, and make the terrain big. Copy the lot boundary and the setback lines into this plan. Copy, Paste Hold Position. Select the setback lines and use the temporary dimension to position it. Once they are positioned correctly, delete the setback lines in the original plan and Copy, Paste Hold Position the new lines.
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Don't understand the question. You can set the distance between 2 parallel lines. One will move as needed. What are you trying to accomplish?
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If you do have Chief X9 and not Home Designer go to https://chieftalk.chiefarchitect.com/ Suggest you say specifically what you are asking about. You are aware of the Dollhouse view, and you can use pony walls with the top set invisible.
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Check with sales/support.
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What is it you are not able to do with Pro? If you just want to pay someone to do the work, there is a Seeking Services forum on ChiefTalk. https://chieftalk.chiefarchitect.com/forum/15-seeking-services/ Post over there. I'd state you want someone local, as you will probably get people responding from all over.
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Are you having problems or just curious? This is a good question for sales/support.
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The Knowledge Base is a good place to look. https://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/article/KB-00138/adding-a-custom-material.html
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If auto rebuild roofs is off, you can cut the roof planes and paste/hold position an an upper floor. Right click on a roof plane and choose Display On Floor Above. Floors are a place where things show in plan, not necessarily where they show in a camera view. I could draw a slab on floor 5, and set its height so it displays at ground level.