solver

Because you have Pro, I'll recommend you use its manual roof tools. After getting the roof correct -- not worrying about the dormer, turn off auto rebuild and reshape the roof planes as required. Then, draw in a roof to cover the dormer.

Uncheck Ceiling Over This Room.

On the interior, the 2nd floor walls need to be aligned with the first. From the 2nd floor, select a wall and use the Align With Wall Below tool. Because the first floor walls are thinner, you will then need to manually move the 2 long walls out 2". Doing this roof in Suite is going to be not so easy. If I were designing this, I'd look at doing the rear like this. It cleans up the roof lines, and makes the changes not so obvious.

People seem to start with Suite, although its limitations would be very frustrating to me. Architectural has more features, but they mostly relate to structure -- defining new wall types, for example. Pro has even more tools, and allows you to manually create ceilings and roofs. If you are successful in your business, and willing to invest much more money, consider the Chief Architect products (Interiors and Premier). You may always upgrade by paying the difference in price from your software to the higher priced version. Pro, and the Chief Architect branded products have a rent to own feature too.

Just continue this thread. It's confusing when people edit their original post, so just add the new info in a new post.

Click the path, click the Key Frame tool, click on the path to place it. I tested in Chief Premier, but should work the same in Pro.

Read up on the Open Below room type. Second floor. Draw a room, set it to Open Below.

None of the Home Designer products have the ability to manipulate symbols. You will need a 3rd party symbol. Search the 3D Warehouse (Google to find it) for a grab bar.

You have been looking at things that apply only to Chief Architect. The Home Designer site has a blue theme. If you find yourself on the Chief Architect site, it has a green theme.

This set of icons controls how materials, including colors, are applied. Suggest reading up on how they work.

Posting images is almost always helpful. Is this what you are asking about?

Why does it need to be raised?

I took a look, redrew walls and various other things. made it better, but not fixed. The program does not work really well with curved walls. I'll suggest getting the remainder of the plan correct, then work on the tower.

I believe you cannot do so in Suite. You will need to draw the walls, then paint them with a material.

It's still important to know which software you are using. You don't raise the height of a wall, you raise -- or lower the ceiling height, and the walls follow. Ceiling height is set in defaults, but may be overridden on a room by room basis. And, if you are on Windows, and a Mac may have the same, you can Sleep or Hibernate you system instead of doing a full Shutdown. This lets you keep your drawing alive instead of starting over each time.

Review Object Information in an items specification dialog. Check the 3D Warehouse or other sites for a symbol of your new radiators, or create one of your own with SketchUp. You cannot draw lines on a soffit, but you could make a very small soffit, give it a unique color if required, and place it against another soffit. If you do this, block the items together for ease of movement.

Not sure which plan you are using, but make sure you are changing the uppermost floor walls.

There is always the option of using solids -- a soffit, slab, or one of the shapes from the library. A fence with 1 window would require 4 pieces. Not difficult to do if you know the dimensions you want.

I'd ask your local code enforcement people. No matter what the code says, they are the ones that will sign off on the plan and construction. https://codes.iccsafe.org/public/

The north side of my house will have snow and ice a foot or so up against it much of the winter. New construction requires siding to be 8" above the earth. In areas prone to termites, an exposed foundation makes their tunnels easy to spot. There are many, many metal buildings where the siding runs to concrete or asphalt. The slab is raised an inch or so forming a rabbit for the siding to sit on.

The floor camera is mostly useless -- read up on it in the documentation to understand how it and the other cameras operate. Use the Full Camera.

I always suggest to someone wanting to learn the roof tools available in Pro to start by experimenting. Draw a one room structure. Auto build the roof, then move the roof planes around. Change the default hip to a gable. Add a room forming an L or T shape structure. Draw roof planes manually and try to connect them to the existing roof. Like a slab, a roof plane is bound by a polyline with edit handles you may grab and move. Work in a camera view so you may see what is happening. I like a Technical Illustration with patterns toggled off (under the 3D menu). As for the video, I was suggesting following it from beginning to the end, as I believe they construct the house before building the roof.

Here are some videos to get you started. https://www.homedesignersoftware.com/videos/watch/10141/home-designer-beginning-roof-design.html?playlist=200 And I'll suggest practice. Draw a one room structure. Draw a gable roof, then a hip roof. Add a room creating an L shape and add a roof over it so it connects to the existing roof. Work in plan and in a camera view -- i do most initial work in a camera view, then cleanup in plan.

There is only the complete plan. https://www.homedesignersoftware.com/videos/watch/10141/home-designer-beginning-roof-design.html?playlist=200 I believe the video shows building the complete house prior to starting the roof training.

The plan you posted does not match the images, but in either case, that's a simple roof to fix manually. You really should take the time to learn the manual roof tools. I'm sure I have linked to the YouTube videos from Chief, and DJP (David Potter) also has a bunch on YouTube.