solver

And as Jo Ann suggested, make sure you have installed the core content -- Library menu.

Try a Soffit (Cabinet Tools) for your bench. Use the Material Eyedropper to pick up the material from the floor and apply it to the soffit.

I believe you are correct. The templates include things not available in the standard library. I don't understand the issue. What are you trying to do that you cannot?

If that is a requirement where you are building, then yes.

Your questions are far outside the scope of this forum, but I'll try to give you some suggestions. Hire a professional. While you may be capable of this project, statistics say otherwise. Starting off with "I am not sure where to begin", is not a good sign. Do you have a builder in mind? Consider bringing one in early to act as a consultant. Someone that could guide you through the process, starting with reviewing your building site. Someone who will do a design review as the plan progresses, answering questions and keeping you on track. There are many books available too -- construction, and design. You might find a plan online. Designing a home is far more than drawing exterior walls and then filling in the interior with rooms. I've looked at many owner drawn plans, and very rarely see one that's well designed.

You will need to reshape as needed.

I was just getting to that. If you turn on Reference Display (F9), you will see the upper and lower walls are not aligned. Is this the way the house is built? If not align them -- get close then use the Align With Wall Below (or Align With Wall Above) tool.

Try -4.45 degrees and move the roof up 455mm. After joining, the join should be along the CAD line.

Because the main roof is not flat, you need to tilt the baseline of the tipped up part. Look at the bottom of the roof plane dialog -- (I think Pro has this). It looks like -4.5 (or something close) degrees works. I imagine there is a formula to compute this angle, but I did it by guessing. Draw the roof plane at an angle along the cad line. Change the baseline angle. Raise the roof plane using Transform/Replicate (Z axis). Join the 2 roof planes with the join command. Expect this to be a bit of trial and error. If it does not line up as you want, undo and make a change to the baseline angle. Nearly right bar roof (Eric).zip

Don't know why. Use 2 cabinets and a partition. Use what you have but make the cabinet 1" taller, then position it -1" to the finished floor.

Try using the 3 key. It's the shortcut to break for everything but roof planes.

Did you go through the steps in #11? When you reopen the plan, the saved camera will be there, unless it's layer is off.

Draw a new plan. Take a cross section. Make some mods, save camera. Save the plan. Close and reopen. Double click the saved camera and see what is saved.

It just saves the camera -- does not do anything visually. In plan view, turn on wall framing. Make sure the camera is taking in the wall framing and is not between studs.

Everything shows in a framing overview? Are you using a Back Clipped cross section?

Each view has its own layer set. Framing is not on by default in the Cross Section layer set, so you need to turn it on. I believe you have an All On layer set. It's a quick way to see all layers on in whatever view you are in.

Were you able to build the model using my instructions? If I remember correctly, your house is a dutch colonial. Have you considered using a gambrel roof on the shop building? Are you incorporating the existing garage, or will this be a standalone structure? Quick idea.

Draw the first floor and place a wall dividing the 2 sections. Change the ceiling heights. Build a 2nd floor. Make sure to select Step floor/ceiling. Accept the defaults on the next dialog. You will have 2 rooms, just like on the first floor. Lower the ceilings in them by changing the absolute ceiling height to 14'. You may need to change the floor structure on the 2nd floor if you are spanning the 28'.

Here is an idea. I've drawn a deck on the basement level. This gets rid of the footings. It only needs to be directly under the post, so not as big as I have shown. You could use a slab or soffit to extend the post, and draw in your own footing -- see the shapes in the library if you don't have the footing tool. Have you considered something like this? I did this quickly and would reverse the flights on each stair, I think.

Guessing Architectural does not have these options.

Often posting an image of what you are seeing helps. What top plates are you missing?

I've used a grid made from slabs, or soffits, or custom countertops. Draw one tile, and using Transform/Replicate, create your grid. Block together to make moving easy. I have done octagon and other shapes too.

If you are asking about the framing I've colored in red, it appears to be an artifact. The program often builds attic walls as the model is being developed, but does not remove them when not needed. I frequently use Delete Current Floor at the attic level to clean these up. The attic walls that are needed will rebuild automatically.

To answer your question, the software has no concept of locations or corners that may be exported.