solver

And I still think this is the way to do the roof.

Using a 2nd floor Open Below space is like using a soffit for a ceiling plane -- it works, but isn't needed. The simple suggestion is to use the manual roof tools to create the roof. Set your defaults, auto build the roof getting as close as you can with simple settings. Then use the manual tools to complete the roof. Take a look at this plan. I deleted the 2nd floor, raised the ceiling in the central part, changed the pitch from 3 to 5 and set the end walls as gable. Auto built the roof. Looks close to me. A few manual adjustments may be all that is needed. designer468_house-2c-k2-living2 (eric A).zip

Generally, you don't change wall heights, you change the ceiling height and the walls follow up or down. What did you do?

Yes

A few suggestions. Start by drawing walls to accurately reflect the house as is. Set ceiling heights, floor structures etc and build the foundation (check Auto Rebuild Foundation). Ignore the roof. Your goal is to get the structure correct -- minus the roof. Don't add doors, windows, furniture, paint, cabinets etc, just focus on the structure. Once done, save this file as your base. Make a copy and start working on the roof. Change the defaults -- pitch, overhang etc, and make changes to walls (gable). Auto build the roof. Your goal is to create an accurate, as built model of the house. If the auto build is close, but not perfect, turn off auto build and make manual changes. There are a bunch of YouTube videos on roofs. https://www.youtube.com/user/ChiefArchitectInc/search?query=roof also The Chief Architect and Home Designer videos are applicable as they have the same basic roof tools. David also has a bunch of videos on YouTube. Try to understand the concept, instead of looking for a match to your specific situation. I'll recommend you start a new plan, draw a simple structure and use it to experiment. Manual roofs are not difficult, but do take a bit of practice. There is nothing magic about a roof plane. They may be deleted, copied, moved up and down, reshaped etc. I normally work in a Camera View for rough edits, then switch to plan to finish. Again, the goal is to create an accurate, as built of the existing house. Once done, save it, make a copy and start on the remodel plan. ------------ You don't need the 2nd floor Open Below room. Raise the ceiling height in the rooms where it changes, delete, or pull back existing roof planes, and draw 2 new roof planes to cover it. Join the new roof planes to the old. ------------ Only when the structure is correct should you add in all the extras. ------------ Pro has all the tools needed, but you do need to learn them. The roof tools make it easy to do more complex roofs, when compared with lesser titles, but you need to understand the roof tools, and know how to use them.

You may move the ceiling plane up or down via its dialog box, or using transform replicate. Take an elevation and measure the distance to move it. Sloped soffits might be used as a ceiling plane, but they don't create vaulted ceilings. I'm sure Jo Ann used soffits because she does not have Pro.

Pro has manual ceiling planes that work very much like manual roof planes. You should not be using soffits for ceiling planes. Check the website for videos.

I have not looked at your plan, but here are a few ideas. If you have used any manual roof planes, make sure they are all joined with those adjacent. Also check that the rooms below all have the same ceiling height. When you turn off Ceiling Over This Room, what you see is the underside of the roof plane, not necessarily a finished ceiling. You will most often need to draw in your own ceiling planes to cover any gaps. As for the interior wall above with plywood showing, it looks like the upper wall is probably thicker than the wall below -- like it's an exterior wall over an interior wall. For the last weird plywood problem, I'd fix other things first. You may need to pull the roof plane back, and it may fix itself as the model is updated.

Sadly, no. I was very frustrated with the lack of basic layer functionality.

The undo limit may be changed. See preferences under General. In preferences, under General > Folders. See the path for the Data folder. I believe the Archive folder is there. Your terrain is built on a specific floor, and becomes part of the data for that floor. You could build it on floor 0 or 2, as it is not required to be on floor 1. Not saying that is the way it should be, just the way it is.

See this post for some ideas. If you choose to rotate the terrain, you could view the angle of one of the lines, then use Transform/Replicate to rotate it.

Are you really using Pro9? That's really old. If you bought in the past few years, you have Pro 2017, Pro 2018 etc. I'd call this a bug and have seen it happen on one of my plans. To fix, select the upper wall, grab the bottom edge and drag it up. You may need to redraw the lower wall too. Grab the wall section with the window and drag it to the back corner.

Happens to me ALL the time. No idea why.

Use a roof plane, a sloped soffit, or something from the 3D Warehouse (google it).

Searching for nana will find some more info.

Try making the lower wall Balloon Through Ceiling Above. You may then delete the upper (attic) wall if the program does not.

Are you using Wall Covering to do this? The program has no drywall texture materials. Look at stucco, carpet etc.

You don't. None of the Home Designer/Chief Architect products offer this.

It's often helpful to see an image, or have the plan file to review. Have you built a foundation?

What's wrong with what you have drawn? I extended the roof to form a porch across the front. Provides a path to the front door from the driveway.

The program is showing the way houses are normally framed. I've not seen construction like you have shown.

What are you seeing?

It imports into the user part of the library, using the filename as its name.

In newer versions of the software, the columns do show, but there still are no snaps. I would sometimes use a solid like a slab for columns, drawing them in after the railing so they could be positioned as required. Using a closed polyline works just as well.

My guess is that you painted a color/material onto parts of the roof, like the fascia. Once this is done, it seems to override the defaults, and I don't know how to tell the program to use the defaults.