Rookie65

Depending on what is in your library for options, try searching in the library by the keywords "Window Grille." There are several in the catalog that may work for you, including some decorative ones. It is in Pro, if not the others.

A lot of it is common sense and having a way that all of the loads get carried down to the foundation or grade.

I use HD Pro and have since 2013. I've drawn over 730 residential projects with it. One thing to verify is what your state allows designers to draw without being licensed. Here in MA, we can draw any 1-2 family dwelling or addition to. The contractors need to be licensed and insured to build it. They will normally do their own material takeoffs, as I would not rely on the material list from HDP. They all calculate waste in their own way. Regarding engineered material, such LVL, I-joists, roof trusses, etc., most Inspectors want some certified documentation that what I've drawn for those items will work. I design with what should work from information in the materials published span charts. Yet I always note that it is to be verified by others qualified to do. Many of the lumberyards have staff on hand who can take the plans and run the calculations with the software given to them by their engineered material source. Roof trusses are typically designed by the truss manufacturer. A local licensed structural engineer that can take your plan to review and stamp is also a great person to have access to, as some towns will still require a stamped set of drawings. I've never had an issue with drawing the foundation plan and needing an engineer. I hope this helps you a bit.

Select the floor/area that you want to change. Then open up that room and select materials. Take the flooring listed in "Plan Materials" and select it. Then copy it, save it as a name you want to use, then change the pattern and texture to the opposite degree shown, If it's part of a floor that you want to have keep the original direction, then create a room with the new material. Hope this helps

Sure. The polyline does work with the solid white infill

No, I didn't try it, and Eric is correct. I would do the mask on the plan sheet using a polyline and making the lines blank and the infill white. When it's put on the layout, it may creat a blank area for any other pages put over that area. Invisible walls used to work nicely when they were just a single line.

Change the line style to "blank" in the default for the walls you don't want to show. When you open up the line styles, you will see one row that has nothing in it.

Try raising the garage door the needed distance from the floor and adjust the width and height to what is needed to fit the opening. Then check the options to see if you can change the number of panels high it should be

My guess is it has something to do with the room divider issue you posted about earlier. Try opening up the divider and change the wall type to divider and see if the single line will come back.

I've been using Pro since 2013 for my design business and it is more than sufficient for my needs. I design additions, decks, houses, garages, etc. I've used it to produce over 720 plans and construction documents to date.

The tile can be done a couple of ways. Either use the "break wall" tool where the walls intersect and tile just the section you want. Or you can use a soffit made of the tile material you want and manually place it. For the shower you can try searching for "shower hoop" and see if that works for you. There are several items to select from in the library.

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Try reading up on "ceiling planes" and see if it helps

Go to Edit>Default Settings>Floors and Rooms>Room Types. Click "Edit" and the room names will show up in a list. Take one of the numbered bedrooms and Rename it. If you need numbered rooms in your plan, then change the label as David showed in his video for each bedroom type. You can do this for any of the rooms listed. Just check the Edit label too and verify the room has the structure and function you want. There you can edit the materials and structure for the various room types too. Even a room style that is not common in your area can be changed and edited to something you want to have.

There are pre-designed pergola's in the bonus catalogs. Look at a few and see if they will work for you.

Do them as soffits or closed boxes

Did you try the bonus libraries? There are several catalogs that can be downloaded free or purchased and there's a good chance one might have apple trees. Since the program lists them by scientific name, try this website https://bouldertreecare.com/tree-identification/, Search by the name, then try it in the library. There are several apple tree options

1st guess is that the basement wall is not aligned with the floor above it? For the terrain, open the drop down box and set the level to what it needs to be. Some time spent reading the reference manual will often answer a lot of your questions.

When you open the program, click on "New Users Start Here". Scroll down until you see the "Reference Manual" link. There you can open it and even better, save the PDF to your desktop so you can refer to it easier.

Spend some time with your reference manual. I would suggest on the roofs, pull them apart so they aren't touching, then try the "match roof" command, which looks like 2 triangles going in opposite directions. The top roof will probably need to be pulled the most so you don't get the message that they can't cross each other. For the posts, go to the rail style for the railings they are on and look at the end and start post setting. They usually default to a half post, yet you can set it to none. Those may help clean this up for you.

18x24 layout sheet size is in HD Pro 2022. I do my window and door schedules on an excel spread sheet and then copy/paste it into a text box on the plan. That was asked before and should be in the forum with answers.I answered this same question quite a while back. I think Chief Architect Premiere has that function.

Have you thought of setting the top of the window at the rough ceiling height? If you're worried about casing showing, put a very small lintel on the window

All that needed to be done to fix the line in the wall was align the walls. The icon on the lower tool bar was showing, so it's an easy fix.

Go to your wall and look at the roof option. Then you will see where you can click a box to make the area below the roof the wall type you want. You may find more help in your reference manual.

If it doesn't need the door to be angled, you could try going to the shapes library and place a wedge on top of the cabinet. Adjust the legs so it fills the gap between the top of the cabinet and your ceiling. Then you can change the wedge material to the color of your cabinets so it blends in.