Rookie65

@ DJP The hinges you were thinking would be hidden are just the ones from the other operating panel for the double door. You had them hidden correctly.

Go to "tools>checks>plan check. Don't necessarily have to fix anything that comes up. When you exit, the square footage should come back. There may be other ways to do it, though I find this one quick.

It can be changed in Pro. Try looking at your default materials. When you find the flooring being used, select it, then look for the "edit" in the top right corner. There you can change angles in properties and the texture sections.

I've used a soffit before when I have had to do that style for my clients.

Sorry, I meant to say "Ctrl", not alt.

Hold down the "alt" button and click the items you want to change. Understand that only items of a like kind will be able to be changed at one time. Decks and rails are considered different items.

I don't think you will be able to do much roof customization without "Pro." Architectural may have it too. Good luck

Since you have Pro, a manual roof will most likely be your solution here. Take some time to learn them, as they can be a lifesaver at times.

If you have the interior measurement, set the default dimensions to use the interior, or draw it roughly and tweak it by using the "interior dimension" tool and drag the arrows to the walls you want to align. Just be sure to start from one wall or corner so everything stays correct. Just set your foundation wall thickness in the defaults and it should work just fine.

Hi, I always use soffits for screening. Set the thickness to an 1/8" or so, just so you can select it to move, extend, etc. Then select the material as "screen", and play around with the settings. This is what I use. Screen: - soffit – 1/8” thick - General – screen – shading contrast 31%, pattern-area, texture x=1”, y=1”, Properties – Transparency 63%, Emissive 5%

Quick answer may be to check to see what the height the material is. If it's the same height as the other terrain, it may not show. Even if you raise it up an 1/8" or so, it could help.

Hi Tracey, I took a quick look at the plans. There are several defaults that ought to be changed that might help. 1) All of the rooms have the 9' ceiling, so the program won't know that the middle area is a higher ceiling. 2) Your default pitch says 8, yet when I turn on roof labels, some of it shows 10. I am thinking you manually changed some/ 3) In the room labels, use what the program has for default names, then change the description as you did. It will help put the correct finishes when you pick materials for the rooms. A couple of design items that maybe should be changed, yet work on the roof for now. I hope this helps a little?

You do it from one plan. Send to layout what you want/need, save that layout sheet, then create the next.

Go into the "deck support" section of the room specification dbx for the deck. When you open it, change the default "deck post footings" to the diameter (width) you need for the helical piles. The thickness will be the depth you need to get below your frost line plus the height above terrain you choose.

I have a "master" file that I start my designs from and keep a few different wall types in it so when I am designing a project, I can select the wall type I need instead of creating one for every project. Great for addition jobs to define which are existing and new walls. Helps speed things along and may be something to keep in mind if you find yourself doing more projects.

Bill, You may want to go into the default settings under wall types and create a new wall type with that definition. You can then draw any further walls with that definition. If you are changing the default settings, it reads that as the overall wall type you want for all of the walls in that family (exterior,interior, etc.). I hope that makes sense?

Try using the "backclipped cross section" drop down in the section option. That will let you limit the depth of the view, which may be what you are looking to do.

Might be that you need to set the table "distance above floor" from zero to the thickness of the rug.

I usually use a horizontal or vertical cylinder, depending on which way you need it to be going. Make it a 4" diameter & change the material to a color you want it to be. I usually use white.

my guess is it's the sill plate?

You can try it from an elevation camera view w/a "tape measure" or "point to point" dimension. Not an option with a 3d view.

Hi, First I would update both computers to Windows 10, then install the Home Designer program on the desktop since that will probably have more power and memory to work the program. See what you have for a graphics card so everything will display for you. For the house design, start out with a list of rooms you need. Then list the 3 "Haves" (must, would like to, if I can) of features you desire. I would suggest thinking worse case scenario and design the house for ADA requirements. Wide doors, barrier free bath fixtures, etc. Think about the site and where the views are, the sun rises and sets and access from the road. Try to keep room sizes based around a 16" oc framing to minimize waste of materials. Hope this is a start for you?

See if this link will help. https://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/article/KB-00439/creating-a-cross-section-detail.html?utm_content=&utm_source=VerticalResponse&utm_medium=Email&utm_term=Learn how&utm_campaign=Home Designer Software News

I do my schedules in an excel spreadsheet, then copy and paste it into a text box.

When selecting the bay window, in the "general" tab, you can lower the ceiling. Maybe give that a try?