Rookie65

Since it is a railing, open the wall and change the railing height.

Do them with the "cross section/elevation" tool and not with a camera view.

Sometimes it's one of the little things that happen with the program. Could put a soffit at that intersection in the wall and have "use room mouldings" unchecked. That is one solution. Sometimes changing the wall framing material from studs to drywall could fix it too.

No function that I know of, though you could make one by using closed polylines. Draw each one at the scale you need and use a solid fill on alternating one may work?

If you want to have all the bells and whistles that apparently you are used to, then Premier may be your answer. I would not agree that they are misrepresenting the product at all. I have been using HD Pro for my design business since 2013. With over 300 projects drawn and construction documents for them generated from the program, I have never had an issue with paper size once I asked about this situation and got the solution I posted. Not entirely sure what the trouble is you mean you are having with the level sets. For what it's worth, I created a "master" plan that I use to originate each project from. It has the defaults I like to use for dimensions, wall types, text, etc. so I don't have to set them all up each time i need to draw something. Then I change what I need for each particular job and "save as" the name I want to give it. That way my original is always there.

With Pro, the largest sheet it can save in a layout is 18"x24". What I do in that case if the plan is too big for 18x24 paper is send it to layout on 11x17 paper in 1/8" scale. Yet I will have my title block say "1/4"=1'-0" as the scale. You can put a border around the edges with the rectangular polyline tool to draw the line. When I send it to be printed, I have them double the print size and have it printed on 24x36 paper. DO NOT let them "fit to page" or it will mess up the scaling. This way you have a 22 x 34 correctly scaled drawing on 24x36 paper. The reference manual is a good place to look for answers to some of your questions too.

Or check to see if there are any available in the downloadable bonus catalogs.

maybe under shapes-open top and front will work?

Ok, good. I am wondering if you may be able to use a wedge shape to show it from the side. Since it's a geometric shape, the inverted one may work. Doesn't need to be thick in width and you should be able to adjust the length to get from the seat to the screen. Then maybe adjust from there? It will give you something. Or maybe a parallelogram? One of those shapes may work.

David, I think he is looking to find out how to show the lines of sight as if in a section view and not plan view. Almost like a cone coming from the headrest of the rear seat towards the front of the room. I don't know how to do it, or even if it can be done in a section view. I am figuring one of you folks that have used it for a long time may have run into this before?

Fredo, If he only wants the ridges to align, and not the fascias, then you can manually draw the roofs..Set the ridge to the desired height and use the same pitch for each roof if desired. If they need specific ceiling heights per room then of course that will probably not be a good solution. Though you can lock ridges and fascias and let the pitch be what it is between those 2 items. Was just a thought.

On the 11 x 17, I make my own title block via inputting text. Is this a different project than the 24 x 36? Without seeing exactly what you are doing or have, it's only guessing.

Look in "shapes" for a wedge. Probably inverted one will work here.

Sure thing. Plus you can probably just send them the PDF online and pick it up when it's ready. Then there is no "middle sheet" to possibly distort dimensions for someone in the field needing to measure, etc. Good luck!

With Pro, the largest sheet it can save in a layout is 18"x24". What I do in that case if the plan is too big for 18x24 paper is send it to layout on 11x17 paper in 1/8" scale. Yet I will have my title block say "1/4"=1'-0" as the scale. You can put a border around the edges with the rectangular polyline tool to draw the line. When I send it to be printed, I have them double the print size and have it printed on 24x36 paper. DO NOT let them "fit to page" or it will mess up the scaling. This way you have a 22 x 34 correctly scaled drawing on 24x36 paper. This way there's no double printing to get what you want. Hope this helps?

Change it in room or floor defaults. You can set it to finished or rough height, depending on what information you have.

for #2, you could try it with a custom countertop and raise it to the desired height. That will let you make different angled shapes and they can have a radius applied.

It wasn't a total waste of time if something was learned from it. The only "template" I keep is a master plan saved with the defaults I like (font, door style, window sizes, siding, dimensions, etc.) so I don't have to reset them for every project. Then I save each new project with its own name and then change any particular defaults needed for that project only. That's why I feel bad when I see people post about saving a template of a particular house style, then realizing they want to change it after. We all have our own styles and depending on if you're using the program for business, or a weekend warrior, we all find what works best for us.

With Pro, the largest sheet it can save in a layout is 18"x24". What I do in that case if the plan is too big for 18x24 paper is send it to layout on 11x17 paper in 1/8" scale. Yet I will have my title block say "1/4"=1'-0" as the scale. When I send it to be printed, I have them double the print size and have it printed on 24x36 paper. DO NOT let them "fit to page" or it will mess up the scaling. This way you have a 22 x 34 correctly scaled drawing on 24x36 paper. Hope this helps?

I make my own, as I haven't seen one. I use text and just type the 12 on the first line, then hit enter and enter the pitch height on the next. Then draw a CAD line under the 12 and next to the height. Done in no time.

Usually the foundation is what the walls of the basement are made from. It is still floor "0". Where the grade sits in relation to it is where you decide if there's room to make it a walkout or just a typical basement that usually has access to the outside through a bulkhead.

Knowing what the circumstance is that it needs to be a walkout basement will help us help you. If it's because of terrain, maybe this will help https://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/article/KB-00718/modeling-a-sloping-terrain-for-a-walk-out-basement.html

Or if the basement floor needs to stay at the same level and it's a walkout due to grade conditions, then use pony walls to make that portion a framed knee wall over the foundation. The "upper half" will be whatever your main exterior wall is in (2x6 framing usually). The bottom will stay as concrete and you determine how high above the floor you want the foundation to end. And if it is because of grade, you'll need to change the stem wall for that area also to get it below the frost line out there.

Change it to a lazy susan, then go to "front". uncheck default, then click on the door and at the bottom are the options to show it open. Then you can select the angle you want

change it to a lazy susan