Rookie65

You're welcome. Glad I could help. Probably don't need to copy each reply in a new post.

That will give the stairs a starting reference point to determine the treads, rise & run to reach the deck.

Have you set your terrain?

Under the "text" drop down box, use the "marker" setting. You can generate them at the levels you desire. If you know the dimensions between floors, etc. you can use the transform/replicate and move them along the Z axis at the distance needed. That will keep them aligned with each other. Then you can use the point to point dimension tool to draw your dimensions vertically and move them away from the markers as desired. Just a note is make sure you have changed the default dimension settings to read in the inch size that matches the plan so they show correctly for this part..

I am guessing that your building codes won't allow such a staircase without landings at some point. The simplest would be to put a landing at each floor since you know what the height of the floor is from your plan. The length of the landing probably doesn't need to be any deeper than the width of the stairs.

Probably a good time to learn about creating manual roofs. Which direction do you want the shed roof to run?

Try attaching the ".plan" file to an email and send it to yourself from the laptop to your desktop. Open it on the desktop and save it there. If you are running the same program on both, I am thinking that will work.

You do realize the program is sold globally? There is no possible way Chief Architect could have a way to include priced materials that would make sense to anyone. Lumber prices alone vary widely from coast to coast, never mind between 2 yards in the same town! Never mind the fact that the prices would be useless from the time it was shipped from the factory until the time you installed the program. Best advice is be diligent how you frame your plan and then send the program generated materials list to a local materials dealer to price. That's the only way you'll get anything worth trying to use.

Are you expecting the program to come with material prices in it?

Terrain is typically derived from the 1st floor, which defaults at "0". Then the foundation will build down at a negative dimension. I am thinking if you set the 62' height at the dimension it would actually be below the 1st floor and then the high end would just be 18' higher. The settings can be found in your terrain tools. Hope this helps get you going in the right direction?

I do a lot of screened porch plans and always make my screening with a soffit. I set the thickness to 1/8", adjust the screen material to my liking and then apply it over the deck railing that I used for the wall. Put it just inside the outside of the wall so it appears to be inside of the posts. Then copy and paste it around the perimeter as needed.

This link will take you to the catalog library where you can purchase catalogs that you may find helpful. The ones that are marked "SSA Only" are not available for us Home Designer users, yet the others are and can be very helpful, along with the free ones. Happy shopping! https://www.chiefarchitect.com/3d-library/index.php?r=site/library&reset=true

You can make it a soffit, add the moulding pattern to it and define the size you want it to be. Then adjust the length to go to either side of the opening.

I don't know, as I have never used Suite. Another option could be to draw them as individual landings at the needed heights to complete the look.

Take a look at your reference manual on how to create winder treads.

Try using a soffit made with the countertop material and check the height above floor needed to get it to fit through.

I don't think you can turn the shingle layer off, though depending on what you are trying to do, maybe changing the roofing material to glass could work?

Good chance they may have renamed some. Go to default settings>floors & rooms>room types then edit. You can change names of rooms you don't usually use to rooms you would like to have. Or you can leave those alone and when you are drawing your plan, define it as a default room, then change the particular name from the default..

You can also try your library bonus catalogs under post & pier systems. You may be able to buy that catalog and download it so that type and others will be available to you as well.

Create a new wall type from that one.

Since my projects are residential, often the builder will notate the location on a plot plan that is drawn from a new survey most towns require to be submitted along with the permit application. For the little bit of landscape design I put on the plans, I use the built in elevation building part of the program and go from there. I adapt it to the x-y coordinates as the plan is drawn and it's very simple. Walls stay straight, trusses go in the correct direction, angles are mostly eliminated (except for interiors if needed), and all is right with the world and comes out just fine.

I've been using this program since 2013 and with over 300 projects drawn and construction documents created and built from, I'd have to disagree with you. If you're looking for site plans too, then this probably isn't the program for you and maybe AutoCAD is something for you to look at. I don't know what Premier does for site plans, so maybe I am incorrect in my thinking, yet I can't say I have seen anywhere that it professes to do site plans other than via imported coordinates from another source.

RScottG, I think what you are looking for is the civil engineering part of the project and not the architectural. Most plot plans that you see will have the building shown in relation to the survey information. Architectural works best when the plans are drawn along the x and y axis on paper. I don't know of too many contractors who would want to lay out a plan on the hood of their truck at some oddball angle to try to measure something they need off the plan. If Chief Architect were to try to make the program allow for every conceivable angle that you want, there would no room left in the program for the building design information. Let the civil engineers work their magic and their information can mesh with the architectural for a complete project to give the client.

Hi, For my two cents, I think the reverse plan should stay. Especially when drawing a duplex type unit and when people want a mirror image. Thank you.

Since it is a railing, open the wall and change the railing height.