DavidJPotter

BEFORE or when you create a new plan file, you are offered the choice of Imperial or metric measuring units. You can control the nature of the measuring units chosen in Edit - Default Settings - Dimensions after your main choice is then made. DJP

Here is a You Tube video of me fumbling around with your file (Thanks for sharing it): https://youtu.be/kwNsJ0DorNA DJP

Have you assertively ordered that framing exists? If you have not that is why there is none to see using the framing overview camera. In the less expensive titles the framing is automatically built when you order a framing overview camera but in Architectural and Pro (and Chief Premier) none is there to be seen until you set defaults and order it built. DJP

"Wrong" is probably not the right word, improper or outside of the intended function or programming would probably be more correct. You have already demonstrated what does and does not work for yourself. The thing about the "Materials List" function is understanding it is merely tabulating what you did and did not do and nothing else. To obtain a useful, accurate materials list the plan file must be PERFECT on all floors including the attic and foundation levels for when you order a materials list created, depending upon which command you use, it merely measures precisely what you put there to be measured, so if the model is absolutely perfect in all respects, it will reflect in the resultant materials list. Only you can control whether or not you get accuracy. The Materials List commands are completely covered in the Reference Manual, read that for more information. DJP

I have all Home Designer titles back to version 7, if you would like to share that file with me and tell me exactly which version 9 title you have, I will take a look, without the plan file in the same version you are using, all anyone can do is guess. DJP

Mick, I believe only Home Designer Pro has the ability to "lock layers" (does he have Pro 9?) The best thing to do is to share a copy of the plan file with us, so we can take a look directly. DJP

I have never successfully imported terrain data. Let me clarify that, the resulting terrain plane is usually too complicated for most PC's to smoothly handle (too much data and 3D Faces). What I do that I have found most workable is to manually create (modulate) terrain using graphic terrain maps that I selectively trace over with elevation objects (lines, splines and regions mostly. I NEVER USE ELEVATION POINTS NOT EVER). You use as few elevation objects as is possible, make a change or change a value and then view the results, one change at a time to keep the process under control. DJP

Display Options - Dimensions automatic and or Dimensions Manual Uncheck DJP

Here is a You Tube video that explains-answers your questions (I think): https://youtu.be/QM9BAKdIJaI DJP PS:More general data about cabinets can be viewed here: http://video.homedesigner.chiefarchitect.com/?search=cabinet+

Here is a You Tube video done in Architectural 2016 of me creating a chain link fence and gate system: http://youtu.be/iciGwE_2iSE DJP

This You Tube video might help as well: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QwjE7qu22yo DJP

Enforcing inaccuracies on a plan is not recommended (by rounding off to the nearest inch or millimeter-centimeter) A better choice is to set the "Smallest Fraction" to your prefered fraction (in most cases I use 1/2" in the USA BUT only with the concurrence of my client, most of my clients are builders). Otherwise, I just manually reduce the fractions per object. Manual reduction of fractions is time consuming but when you are working on a renovation or addition you do not want to play "fast and loose" with dimensions as errors cost my clients money and ruin my reputation as a designer-draftsperson. That sort of decision is a personal one but should not be made lightly. DJP

Here is a way to do just that i HD Pro 2016 : https://youtu.be/ZE-iqGYnDnw DJP

Kat is correct in that the prefered method is to reduce fractions by moving the objects that display them. As a secondary method you can open Dimension Defaults (Edit - Default Settings - Dimensions) dialog and on the "Format" tab of that dialog there is an input box for "Smallest Fraction" but just keep in mind that you are then rounding off numbers and thus loose relative accuracy, it is a short-cut, if a lazy one. DJP

The only way to do this is with 2D CAD tools (text, lines, closed CAD boxes etc). It would be easiest if you have Home Designer Pro but can be done, with greater difficulty in Architectural and perhaps Suite (Essentials and Interiors would be the most difficult due to the least number of CAD tools). What program tile do you have? DJP

Here is a You Tube video of me working on your file, the edited file is also attached below: https://youtu.be/gIxC2wfVl5k DJP Offset plan_gable issue.zip

All you do is to draw your structure (no roofs) and then place it under the surface of the terrain plane (just no vertically curved walls, sorry) DJP

The main difference between Essentials, Suite, Architectural and Home Designer Pro, other than cost, is the ability to create more intricate roof designs, so like Eric said, if all you are interested in is walls and interior views, Essentials, Suite or Architectural will serve. DJP

I cannot open your image so I too cannot see what you are speaking of exactly. DJP

What software title are you using, version number? DJP

I opened my copy of HD Pro 2015 and sure enough, it has "Tools - Customize Toolbars Dialog with tabs" for the purpose of customizing tool bars. BUT you should CAREFULLY read-study the reference manual sections on those choices and practice making changes until you are confident and satisfied with the results. DJP

No one has access to your home. No one but you can carefully measure it and then apply that data to your virtual model but you. None of us here have psychic powers to know for you or do for you without precise data only you have. After a point, you just open your Reference Manual, read it, practice what it conveys and then apply it to your situation. We can and do help but in the end, it is your project and your home. All of us here enjoy helping others but you also must help yourself. DJP

The technical "Reason" is IMHO value and exchange. Suite and Interiors will do a lot for little money, for a little more Architectural offers additional features and choices with Home Designer Pro offering the ability to layout printed sheets albeit one file at a time. The exchange for HD Pro is $495.00. You get what everyone gets when they buy pro 2016. For $2,600.00 and then about $400.00 per year to maintain your SSA account you get rather a lot more because you exchanged more in terms of money and the time it takes to learn how to use and apply those additional tools and features. Chief Architect Inc is a business and to survive they must make profits, pay salaries, Insurance, rent, legal fees etc. It is their company and products and they have their own survival to insure. It is the way our world is rigged to run. DJP

Relative to some questions you might want answers to, a better choice for a source might be Tech Support or Sales instead of opinions of end users. I was suggesting that a direct communication to the originators of the software would then glean something other than an opinion or someone's guesses. For all practical purposes your question has been answered and useful suggestions made. DJP

The software sets a void or space between floors (Edit - Default Settings - Framing - Sub Floor for floor 2 input box), all the truss tool then does is to fill that void that you create via defaults when you then manually draw-create floor trusses. The roof truss tool works in a similar way filling the space you create between the structural ceiling and the underside of roof planes. It is something you do and not what the software does per se. You set the stage via settings and then manually create floor or roof trusses using the truss tools. DJP