DavidJPotter

Here is a short You Tube Video of some solutions: http://youtu.be/rdB2m-BZSFs DJP

Dave, the way I do remodeling plans is to first create a relationally correct "as-built" plan file and then "save-as" a copy of that and add my addition. I end up with two files. In the addition plan file you can change the fill pattern of the new walls to show in plan view what is new and existing. You just use the tools at hand and get creative. DJP

It sounds like you need to learn how to create a dormer manually. The dormer tool is limited to creating a dormer within the boundaries of a single roof plane and often times the geometry of the dormer exceeds that size, These Knowledge Base help articles will help and explain what you must learn to do: https://www.homedesignersoftware.com/search/?q=manual+dormer&submit.x=7&submit.y=4&default_tab=support&site=chief_architect&client=chief_architect&restrict=ChiefArchitect&proxystylesheet=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.chiefarchitect.com%2Fsearch%2Fchiefsearch_stylesheet.xslt&output=xml_no_dtd DJP

Make sure the software being shown is what you have (not all video tutorials apply to all Home Designer titles). I know Pro can block items, I am not sure about Architectural, Suite or Interiors. The command icon appears as a choice in the "Edit Toolbar" only when you have objects that can be "blocked" together (otherwise the command icon will never be seen). The "Edit Toolbar" only appears when an object is "selected", when an object is "deselected" the Edit Toolbar then vanishes/ Each time it appears on screen, it will contain all the applicable command icons for that selected object or objects. If the block command icon is not present then the selected objects are not "blockable". DJP

I also opened this plan in my copy of Chief Premier 7 and got EXACTLY the same results, so I believe it is plan based. I occasionally get some "Z" fighting but NOTHING like this (this is very unusual). That is why I suggested she send a copy to Tech Support. I could not adjust the Z fighting out even in Premier! DJP

I opened your plan on my PC. I got the same results you did using the dollhouse overview and full overview camera types. when viewed with the full camera, floor camera and elevation cameras the views are as anyone would expect (just fine). I could not find out why this is so (the kinds of visual adjustments you can make in Architectural are few), my advice is to send a copy of this plan to Chief Architect Tech Support for them to figure out. I can tell you put a lot of work into this plan and I am sure you would like a real, useful answer. I opened your plan in Architectural 2015 and made a video of me doing so, I am sorry I could not do better for you: http://youtu.be/60_YMVhNj_g DJP

Roof planes can be turned on or off via Display Options. They can be made to appear on one floor at a time by manually sending them "up a floor or down a floor" But being each a singular object those objects cannot be in two or more places simultaneously, that is how they programmed it to work. DJP

A little You Tube orientation on Toolbars: http://youtu.be/j-Y5tSYtk9E DJP

You can (I have done so many times, especially for multi-building commercial projects) and there is more than one method to do so. Since you are kinda new, I would recommend that you just draw the terrain manually again and save that plan as a baseline. Then save-as that to a new name and draw your house on that terrain. copy-pasting an entire house model from one plan to another can be done (I have done it) but for a newer user it can be a little hair-raising with plenty of opportunities to fail or goof. This is something you learn using copies of copies of plans so if you goober one up, you can fall back on your saved copy. AN IMPORTANT NOTE IS THAT WHEN PLACING A HOUSE FOOTPRINT ON A TERRAIN PLANE YOU NEVER ROTATE THE HOUSE, YOU ALWAYS ROTATE AND REORIENT THE TERRAIN PLANE AND ITS ELEVATION OBJECTS TO THE HOUSE FOOTPRINT!!! There are "Edit Area" tools for copying plans or building instances but like I said this is something you do after you are fully backed up and using a copy to experiment (practice) with. DJP

Part of learning how to draw and communicate with software is to know what it natively does well and where its limitations are. I have been creating remodeling and new construction plans for over a couple of decades with success. You learn to work around what the software does not do well so that your printed results communicate. That is more important than one's preconceptions as to what it should do or what it is weak at, you just work around it and move on. Chief Architect and Home Designer are quite able (not perfect in every way) but useful and supportive to one's creativity. DJP

Walls (any type of wall) draws where you create it. You can only adjust a railing wall's height, not where it is drawn in the "z" axis. By using a fence or railing "symbol" you can vary where it appears in the "Z" axis but not walls. Walls and railing walls work up to a point and past that point you should consider using a railing symbol object for specialized instances. DJP

Welcome to the forum. I have used Chief Architect Inc software since 1995, never used ACAD, but I have known lots of ACAD users who now use Chief and Home Designer. A common thread from ACAD users is similar to your complaint (that HD and Chief are not ACAD basically). I have also observed that their complaints die away as they learn and get used to how Chief-Home Designer is programed and organized. A common complaint is the lack of 2D tools, which I easily again understand on the basis of unfamiliarity. I went from pencil and paper directly to Chief Architect Premier Version 4 but if you are use to drawing-creating using a particular program, learning is a little painful and one naturally tends compare the new to the old and familiar. I am sure you switched for some well founded reasons for you, I predict as the mystery falls away you will loose your affinity for the old as your competence rises with the new. DJP

You are not doing anything "wrong", rather it is just quirk of how the program works. If you loose a break, you simply break it again as many times as is required to make it stick (it will stick eventually). DJP

There are some Chief Premier users that use such a device but I have never heard of anyone trying to use such a device in Home Designer, like I said in my earlier post, this is what I know based on my experience and that is why I still suggest that you ask Chief Architect Sales as it is their business to know such things. I have used a track ball in the past and more recently switched to a mouse which I am satisfied with. DJP

The make-break for a laptop is its video card or the lack there of. Laptops with "integrated" video support usually give lousy performance with this software, laptops with a separate video card give better support to Home Designer software. Then it is a matter of other integral features, such as screen size and weight as well as cost. DJP

Alan, welcome to the forum. Home Designer Makes four different programs, all similar in capabilities but different in ability to do certain things. Eric said and I agree that knowing which trial version you have would assist anyone who tries to help you with an answer specific to what you are using. DJP

Call Chief Architect Inc Sales for anything other than opinions. DJP

Call Chief Architect Inc Sales, they make it their business to know the differences in 2015 and 2016. I just got my copy of Architectural 2016 yesterday, so I have not had time to inventory them. Personally, if I had to just use one Home Designer title it would be Home Designer Pro because it is more capable and flexible than all other Home Designer titles (I mainly use Chief Premier but have the HD software as part of my business supporting HD users). Always do what seems right for you. DJP

The wall break tool works as it is programmed to work in my experience. What can go off the rails is when you use the Materials Eye-Dropper or Painter tool, those tools have four distinct Modes (predefined application settings: component, Object, room, floor and plan modes). These are explained in the Reference Manual in detail and one should then practice using the different mode settings until fully familiar with the effects created. If you set wall material by way of the Room Specification Dialog, that setting overrides any individual wall dialog box-materials settings for walls in that room. One also has Materials Defaults found in other various places (Edit - Default Settings - Materials, Rooms, Room Types etc). Unless these are well understood chaos can then easily ensue when material settings become into argument.. I have observed that wall breaks often disappear after being placed in or along a wall, if the wall is nudged or moved thereafter (even a little- the breaks snap back together and have to be broken again). I too use wall breaks all the time for the purpose of defining a tile surround of a tub or shower. If you loose a wall break, you break it again, it is all taken in stride while creating. DJP

The dormer tool's defaults need to be carefully set up before trying to create a dormer using the dromer tool. Study the dormer defaults (Edit - Default Settings - Dormer) dialog and experiment placing and failing to place a dormer until you get one. Once it is in place you van resize it to suite your purposes. There are tutorials on how to draw and set up to create a dormer manually but like a lot of things in this software the presettings need to be just so to get a good result. A good metaphor is learning to ride a bike, stay at it until you get the hang of its dynamics. DJP

Here is a short tutorial about Dimensions, dimension strings, defaults and tools: http://youtu.be/U6mra1PpSL8 DJP

Contact Tech Support they know all and see all as well as help. DJP

The "Edit Toolbar" appears only when something is selected (anything), if you were to un-dock the tool bar you would see that it has the word "Edit" on it. The types of command icons in it varies based upon what you selected. DJP

If the post is part of a railing wall, its height is controlled by the ceiling height set in the Room Specification Dialog - Structure Tab - Ceiling Height. If that is the case, then I would suppose that the ceiling height is set too high for that covered porch. You probably drew the roof planes manually. If you used an enclosed space with railing walls, then set the ceiling lower (even if the ceiling is turned off, the ceiling height still controls the height of railing posts. To get the exact effect you want you might consider replacing the center posts (under the gable ends) with manually placed and sized posts. The above is my best guess just based on your posted image. DJP

It is hard to predict what you consider a good, high resolution render or video animation. Home Designer Pro does renderings, plans and animations but not "high Resolution". It does a great job for what you pay for. Learning curve is a wild variable in terms of people and their self discipline, ability to study and practice. It is easy for me to say "it is easy to learn", I did my learning years ago but the process is ongoing and never ending in terms of application. It is easy for me because I love what I do and so the stressful failures just fueled my zeal to succeed. In the end, this software is a useful tool. It has lots of settings, dialogs and check-boxes, it takes time to learn where they are and what they are for. Whatever you decide to do, we are here to help you if you wish it. DJP