solver

I don't understand the issue. Could you post an image -- hopefully annotated? Were you referring to the small raised roof in this area? Extensions and Alternations? Maybe Alterations?

That's the way the program works. Read up on these 2 views in the documentation

Experiment with making the stoop a defined room -- maybe a Utility room, and redefine the floor structure. You should automatically get the basement space. Posting your plan file will generally help others help you. Make sure Pro is closed before attaching the plan.

You may make the cabinets any size. Are you using the metric template?

When/if you need help with the roof, please start a new thread. This helps others learn from the responses since the info isn't hidden in an unrelated discussion.

The program wraps the outermost layer, which in your case is 0" thick, so nothing shows. If you want that extra layer, make it 1/128" thick. The program will show it as 0", but internally, it has a thickness. Experiment a bit and you will see how it works.

@CheifTexan If you are using one of the Home Designer titles, you found the correct forum, otherwise, do you know about ChiefTalk? https://chieftalk.chiefarchitect.com/

I don't have Essentials, so this image is from Chief Architect. If you do not see similar options, then Essentials may not have this ability. Have you searched your built in Help system?

Someone might look at your plan if you post the file. Search the forum for Shower. The problem with the shower wall butting into the wall was recently discussed.

Break the wall and change to Hip.

My take on doing the Gullwing manually. I'll suggest Jo Ann shows the baseline in the wrong spot on the lower roof plane. Let the program auto build and this configuration and see where the baselines are.

It's not clear if this is a new house or a remodel, but if new, there may be an alternate roof plan.

This setting only works with auto roofs.

Post your plan file and someone will have a look. The software will normally fill that in. You can also make the wall solid and then place a Doorway without casing. You can drag the sides (or set the dimensions) to the walls on either side and it will be a seamless opening.

David has a good suggestion, and it gives you complete control of how the glass looks. Here is another idea. If your version allows, this trick might work for you, and it can work in other situations too. Draw a room divider wall parallel to the wall the class butts into. It only needs to be about 3" -- mine is larger here so it may be seen. Now move it so it's 1/64" away from the parallel wall. Drag the glass wall over and it will hit the Room Divider wall and stop. Notice this also prevents the base trim from wrapping around the glass. And if you can, define your Room Divider wall to look like this -- and set it as your default Room Divider.

@DavidJPotter Check again David Architectural and Pro both have the Custom Backsplash tool.

Videos are always done with Pro, which has all available tools. You might try a thin Soffit.

Good question for Home Designer Sales. Call, email or post in the Sales Related Questions area.

Not sure what you are using the plan for, but here are a couple of suggestions. I try for full inch dimensions where possible. Yours are mostly random -- close, but not exact. It's far easier for the guy building to not deal with fractions. Before After Also, reach in closets are typically 24" inside (sheetrock to sheetrock), more depth is mostly wasted space. I'd move the washer/dryer to the outside wall for easier dryer venting, and maybe tighten up the spaces a bit.

Change the large door wall to hip and build the roof.

Or maybe this?

Someone will need your plan file. You want a Dutch Gable over both doors?

Build the 2nd floor with 1-1/2" rough ceiling. That will get you close. I added the bottom plate shown in red manually, but there may be a way to get it to build automatically.

Here is an article showing the steps. It's for Chief, so it shows the Multiple Copy tool that Pro lacks, but you can use Transform/Replicate to do the same thing. https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-00981/creating-roof-trusses.html

You don't build roof framing -- you have created it when you drew the trusses. Post your plan file for the best suggestions.