Jo_Ann

Everything DJP and Solver said is relevant. Add your program title AND it's version in your signature, if you expect to get help. You also need to upload your plan, in order to get specific help. You have chosen to build a complicated roof for a newbie. Some of it will probably have to be modeled in Sketchup and imported into the plan. Problem 1-. Ever heard of copy/paste??? Lastly, if you are wanting software that does flips, then you need to upgrade to Chief Premier (used by architects and building contractors). It is pricey, and has an extensive learning curve.

Hi Keith! I think that gap is where the ceiling joists are supposed to be. I don't know if there is an easy way for it to not be displayed.

Try opening the deck room dbx and put a check mark in the box for "use soffit surface for ceiling".

In the reference manual under 'Electrical Tools' you will find this statement : "Click in floor plan view to place an electrical object. Some can only be placed against walls, some only on the ceiling or floor."

Check your Reference Manual

Sloped soffits are not available with the Interiors program. Your work-around is to create them using Sketchup.

It may not be easy to see, but there IS a 4' overhang over the front door.

Check the knowledge base.

Food for thought.

https://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/article/KB-00099/accessing-your-archive-files.html

The south horizontal wall of the deck is causing a problem for some reason. Move it slightly to the north and the roof will build correctly.

ALL wall and room settings are critical for getting the roof to this stage. All temporary walls generated to guide the roof, can be deleted AFTER 'auto build roof" is turned OFF. I left the old garage walls as 'siding 6' for fewer complications. If you want the new addition ridge peak lower in height, change the north wall pitch (2nd floor) to maybe 4". It won't change the interior ceiling height. Wrenchmaster garage addition.plan

Yes. The ceilings are 10' in the new addition. 2nd floor ceilings are 8' at the north side. Old garage ceiling is 8'. Front fascia eave of the new addition matches the eave on the existing garage. How I got to this point with auto roofs is a nightmare, because the ceiling heights kept changing. Now that we know what your ceiling heights are and your roof pitch is, we can visually see what look you are trying to get. Therefore, because you have Pro, I think the easier option for you is to build the roof using the manual roof planes. DJP or Solver are much more qualified to assist you with this task.

Is this what you want?

Does this look more like what you are trying to do?

You can do this with auto roof build...BUT...You said that you wanted a higher ceiling (1st floor) and a 2nd floor in the addition???? Also, what are the pitches?

On floor 2: The north horizontal wall of the garage seems to be causing the problem. Move the wall to the south, until it is just beyond the green-dashed lines of the roof overhang.

Build/Floor/Delete foundation Build/Floor/Build Foundation Select 'walls with footings'. NEXT, on floor level 1: Open each and EVERY room (including closets) and designate the room as a 'slab'. Open the structure tab of each room and reset the floor finish (K) to 7/8. This should give you a 4" thick slab floor on top of stem walls with footings, and a finished wood floor (on level 1). P.S. You need to insert a pass-thru window in the wall that is blocking your sight into the fireplace hearth.

So which is it, an awning or a porch roof? They are not the same. Look in your library for an awning. Look in your user guide or the Home Designer Knowledge Base (website) for how to add a roof.

This prior thread might help. https://hometalk.chiefarchitect.com/index.php?/topic/2273-shed-roof-flat-roof-combo-not-working/

Zooming from exterior to interior (using the mouse scroll wheel) seems to be a new feature of HD2017. As David said, you can do the same thing using the arrow keys (HD 2016 and prior). However, you must use a FULL CAMERA view of the exterior, in order for it to work, as described.

I think this is what KevBel is wanting to do, although it is not feasible (in the real world). Water will flow downhill into the stairwell wall.

OR.. you could just change your ceiling finish (j) in the steam 'room' to 24" or whatever you need for it to be.

Re-post your plan with the new ceiling heights.

LawB10 I agree. I also would like to understand what causes that, because I have encountered it many times.