Rookie65

Take the beams you have drawn, copy them, then go to floor 0 and paste-hold position and see if that helps? You can always use your perspective-framing overview and see how they are shown and their location

I see that and am looking at it. The beams holding up the 1st floor would be drawn on the basement (floor 0) level and the 2nd floor beams on the 1st floor (floor 1)

check the setting of the beam as to if they are set to be below joists or with joists.

Go to your framing default settings, select beam, adjust the size to what you need the steel beam to be, and select the item to be Steel-I.

In Pro you can use manual roofs. I don't believe that is available in architectural.

Or you can go to Library>Fixtures and Appliances>Stanisci Design and download that catalog for free. There may be a range hood there that suits what you are looking for.

Spend some time going through the reference manual about setting floor and ceiling heights.

Try opening the stairwell and changing the square footage to be included in the total. By default it isn't because it's not livable space. All of the rooms can be adjusted like that as needed.

Maybe uncheck opening indicators?

If Suite has pony walls, read up on them and you'll be good to go.

There's also a bonus catalogue in the M.E.P. section with downspouts, elbows, etc. Don't know if that will help.

Another option for you may be the Azek sill profiles? They have a historic sill and a subsill. Both have a little angle to them and may represent the look you want?

Sometimes it helps to check the materials for the lights that aren't working. Even just refreshing one can get them all to work.

With Pro 2021, you can do a search in the library by searching for vertical blinds. I do not know if Architectural has it.

Or do you mean you need to make changes to the plan you imported and create a drawing in Home Designer Architectural?

When you open your terrain settings, read how it says "Subfloor height above terrain." What I think you've done is by setting it to -42 you have actually raised it up 42" from the floor, which is where the hill is coming into being

There is also a bonus catalog available for purchase that has some items similar as well.

Look at the "Rectangular Polyline" drop down box. As was mentioned to you before, the reference manual is great to use so you aren't losing time waiting for someone to answer a question when the answer can be found easily.

I keep my default section detail notes on a word document. Then I copy and paste into a text box and modify as needed for the client and/or the project.

Go to your cabinet defaults. Under wall cabinet, check the box marked "backsplash to base below." Set your thickness and the material you wish it to be. For the areas where there isn't a wall cabinet, use a soffit to fill in those gaps. Painting will just paint a whole wall, as you've found.

The original poster said they used black lines, so I was following what he said.

You don't even need to put in black lines. Just hit the "enter" key a couple of times and it will add spaces to move the call size

It sure looks connected in your post. You do realize that you need to do that procedure to the 2nd floor wall, since that's the one that is being intersected?

Go to the wall specification. Open it up. Go to the "roof" section. At the very bottom is a box that says "Lower wall type if split by Butting roof". Check that, change the lower type to an interior or whatever you want and that should fix it. Your manual is also a great place to look for this stuff.

You can tell it to change the wall type below the roof to whatever you need it to be. The 2nd picture in your post looks like it's facing into the lower room and the siding is the 2nd floor exterior wall.