solver

It's going to take far longer to type this than it took to fix the roof -- it's not so bad. Go to the Build Roof DBX and turn off auto build. You have a 42" overhang -- is this correct? Edit>Reset To Defaults. Check all floors, check all other options below. Set the gable walls on the first floor to be gable. The Great Room needs Roof Over this Room and Ceiling Over This Room checked. Go to the second floor, set the gable walls to gable, and change the pitch on the 2 long walls. You don't have room definitions on the 2nd floor where they are needed because some of the walls are marked No Room Definition. Click the Wall Tool, hold the Shift key and draw a selection marquee around all the 2nd floor to select all the walls. Ctrl-E to open and clear the checkbox for No Room Definition. Build the roof. The roof builds according to settings in the rooms and walls below. When the roof doesn't build as expected, it's because one or more settings are incorrect. Think about what setting would cause the problem, the find and correct it.

Have you tried auto building the roof? At least as a starting point. Use the 2 key to join roof planes, 3 to break. Try pulling them back from each other. Sometimes it's easier to build the main roof planes first, then go back and add the smaller ones -- the small gables in your plan, for example. Post the plan for better help.

I should say that Shift-Select works for other things. To select only upper cabinets, choose the Upper Cabinet tool and you will only select upper cabs. And while you can use the same technique to select walls, you cannot choose which type of wall -- interior or exterior for example.

To select stacked windows in Plan View, use the Shift-Select method. Select the Window Tool, hold the Shift Key and marquee around the windows to be selected.

Only Chief has the ability to create mulled windows -- multiple windows that act as one, just like a real mulled unit. In the Home Designer products, you may place windows together so they appear as a mulled unit, but they are still separate windows.

If on Windows, use Task Manager to check. Right click on the Task Bar and choose Task Manager. Look through the list to see if it's there. If so, select it and click End Task on the lower right corner.

I learned something today, thanks to Kat and raymond. Place a soffit via a click into a 90 degree corner. You may then reshape it -- in this case into a triangle that fills the gap between a soffit and off angle wall. A bit of math will tell you how long to make the sides of the soffit via its DBX.

Look at post #9. I changed the Scale to be 10" for X and Y from the default of 20. The 10" was just a guess from looking at the image, with a single brick being 7-1/2" long. I'll bet you have Stretch To Fit checked.

Am I correct in saying you place the soffit into a 90 degree corner, and you can then reshape it. Placing one into a corner that is not 90 degrees does not seem to work. And that you must place a soffit specifically in a corner via a click, and cannot simply slide an existing soffit into a corner.

@raymond_neeves I've tried and cannot get the soffit to change shape. Could you post a simple plan with a soffit shaped into a corner so I can see how it works.

Kat is correct, But it does not look too bad, as long as you look from a distance. I just guessed at the size of the image -- 10"x10", which needs to be adjusted. I've never done this, so don't have much to contribute.

Post the brick image file and I'll try it here.

Just picked a random image from the desktop.

That's an acceptable file type. Are you sure you were in the correct directory? Did you try typing in the complete filename instead of choosing from the list?

Give support a call.

https://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/article/KB-01202/importing-custom-materials.html

You have the front and back walls set to Full Gable. Only the end walls should be marked as Full Gable. Fix that and the gambrel roof builds, although I'm guessing you will need to change some settings.

Best to attach your plan file. Make sure it's not open in Home Designer. An image showing the problem area will also help.

Yes -- away from the model. The only purpose is to set the exact angle of the soffit and get the soffit roughly sized. Then move the soffit under the stair. Much easier for me than the cumbersome (at least to me) way sloped soffits are done via their DBX.

On the soffit under roof method. Once the stairs are correct, the DBX shows the slope in degrees. Draw a roof plane anywhere on the plan and set it to the same slope. Set the fascia height to 8" or so to get one end low. Place a soffit under it and set the soffit to Sloped and Place Under Roof. See https://hometalk.chiefarchitect.com/index.php?/topic/1927-angles-soffits-for-under-gable-trim/#entry10901 for details. Drag the soffit into shape. Use Point to Point move to place at the stairs. Adjust as needed. Faster to do than describe, and the slope is exact.

I left out the secret setting. After adjusting the wall to cover the gap, set it to be an Attic wall. You will still need to patch the underside. I usually use a soffit the full width of the stairs so it's seamless. To get the soffit at the correct slope, (don't know why you cannot just enter the pitch in degrees) I'll sometimes draw a roof plane at the same angle as the stairs and place a soffit under it, letting the program set the angle for me.

The short answer is to draw in what you want using the manual roof tool.