solver

We need a picture or three of what you are trying to model.

That works, but now the walls are thicker. You could reduce the thickness of another layer, like the drywall.

I assumed this was a feature in the newest version of Home Designer, but tested in the latest version of Chief Premier. I could not make a single window work, so I'm betting this is something the developers never anticipated.

Consider removing the paint layers you added to the walls. Define the wall via Defaults, adding color via the Materials panel. You might also rebuild the stairs so the 2 flights and landing are all one.Draw the bottom flight, the top flight, then click where the landing goes to create it.

That's a common problem, and is often caused by what's at the top of the wall. Posting your plan file -- make sure it is not open in Home Designer, will help us do more than guess.

Lock the layer it's on.

Suite is very limited in what it can do with the building structure, but it is documented in the comparison linked in post #5. I do not understand selling a product with this type of limitation -- what good is the software if you cannot build an accurate model, but then it's also a $100 product that is not intended to use for creating build or remodel plans. You could set your rooms to be a Porch, or other type that uses a default 4" concrete slab, then make up the difference with finish floor thickness as you describe. Not ideal, but it should get you closer.

Chief has many more features than Pro, but the basic functions are the same. If you are wanting to learn, I'd recommend watching every Home Designer video available on YouTube. I've noticed people sometimes want a step by step tutorial on a specific operation. My thought is to try and understand the basics -- the tools available, then apply that knowledge to the problem. Manual roofs are a good example. If you understand the basic functions -- placing a break, joining etc, then watch a few roof videos showing others using the tools, you should be able to apply that knowledge to your project. Practice is also key. If you want to understand roofs, draw a bunch of them.

I'd call sales and ask, or buy a printer and print it yourself. You can buy a laser with duplex printing for $100.00.

There are multiple ways. You can paint the siding, you can adjust the color of existing, create a new wall definition with a new color. Paint color libraries are available for download from Home Designer, or choose from the default colors. Click the icon that looks like a rainbow and research its functions.

I don't see how that will work with a full width porch -- do you? Not trying to be difficult, just trying to find the best solution. I'm not sure the program will do this. It's been tried in the past and the software is always confused when a shed roof butts a gable.

That configuration produces a rather awkward connection at the outside. What are your expectations there? Not related to your question, but I've never see a so perfect, so wrong roof.

Your picture shows 2 decks, you did not say which one you were wanting a roof over. Posting the plan file will help us make good suggestions, and pictures of your attempt would help too.

I'd contact tech support.

It seems to work with a second window. Could not get it to work stretching one window across the entire front.

Something is not right with your uploaded plan. Could you try it again attaching it in a new post.

It's difficult to comment without understanding more about your project, but my initial thought would be to make the walls work in the best/easiest way. As you are discovering, getting the walls correct is important to the entire model. Unfortunately, the software was developed with typical American construction methods in mind.

I made a copy of the existing wall -- so it would still be a railing. Changed the material from concrete to block and adjusted the dimension and material of the rail. New wall types are a powerful option in Pro for many things.

You did not say you wanted the top to have a cap, or that the inside should be the same as the outside. I would have recommended you create a new wall type using your choice of block instead of concrete, and changing the size and material of the top rail to serve as the cap. Far easier than placing a soffit.

There are different ways of doing this, but here is what I did. Changed the wall to a railing, made the top rail 1mm thick, and painted it with the material from the side. If you want the pattern to be correct, you will need to make a new one turned 90 degrees. Once this section of wall is correct, use the same wall type handle to drag it around, replacing the existing walls. The wall on the left is incorrectly set as a foundation wall, and does not have Go Through Floor Below checked.

Here is a good one to start with. home-designer-pro-2015-users-guide-roof-tutorial.pdf

Take a look at this image again. Look at the roof plane that extends up on the right side. Notice how it is continuous from the eave to the ridge. You don't want to delete the one that was there, you want to extend it upwards. Select it, grab it by its handle at the ridge and pull it up. Go to the roof plane at the left above the window and do the same. Do you see how you could join these two roof planes forming a new ridge? There are plenty of videos showing how to manipulate roof planes. Watch and learn the basics, then apply that to your specific needs.

Too many variables -- please post the plan file.

I sometimes save things that cannot be blocked in a plan. Then copy and paste.

Delete all your framing, draw in your trusses. Then build framing. The program is adding a short wall section to support standard roof framing raised 12", which is not needed with a truss.